Memorize Stick Electrode Polarties

[6010]

This is for those like me that are not professional welders and lack the experience that most of the members of this message board have. It is something I ran across on the internet that helps you determine the polarity you can use on the various stick electrodes. When looking at an electrode chart is seems impossible to think you could memorize all the information about the various electrodes and how they can be used. Actually, you only have to memorize three things. This is for the stick electrodes that carry the four number designation like 6010, 6011, 7018 etc.

DC Positive (reverse polarity) Can be used on all electrodes except those ending in 2.

AC Can be used on all electrodes except those ending in 0 or 5 .

DC negative ( straight polarity) Can be used on all electrodes except those ending in 0 or 8.


Now you have it memorized.

[phaxtris]

or you could just read the box if your unshure

[SignWave]

what is the reasoning for various electrodes with various processes? Im not up on this..

[Sberry]

If you have DC+ why fool with the knobs at all? Set it and leave it.

[KBar]

If you have DC+ why fool with the knobs at all? Set it and leave it.

Not all polarities can be used for all metals, thickness or in all situations. Thats why Miller gives us choices

[Sberry]

Like the man says, he isn't a professional and what do you use when you go on the job? 6010 and 7018 There are obviously special circumstances that may warrant something different but for general fab work that is a cant miss deal for 98% of it. I think its easy for newer operators to get slightly confused during the learning curve sometimes and for myself I set the knob or leads to DC+ when I bought the machine and leave it there.

[aametalmaster]

Thats why Miller gives us choices

And thats why i love my MIG. I only use 7018 also. Thats all we can use at work so why have any other unless its cast iron or SS...Bob

[6010]

I agree with Sberry about keeping it simple. Put it on DC + and you only have to remember you can use any electrode except those that end in 2. I don’t think you can get any simpler than that. And I guess most will agree that the 6010 is the fundamental rod to use since it gives the deepest penetration, and can be used more successfully on metal that is not prepped real well i.e., rusty or painted. I know in pipe work 6010 is a code rod and have wondered why the 6011 doesn’t share an equal place in the code. Its penetration is suppose to be the same and it is more versatile in those rare instances when you might find it an advantage to go from DC +, since the 6011 can be used on DC plus, minus, or AC. I hope someone else can answer this question. I tried to find information about the various rods and when they were first manufactured but the information I came across was too vague for me to determine the time line.

As for the question on the various processes I will try to give some simple explanations and maybe someone can add to mine if I leave something out.

AC is used primarily because the source is available in a cheaper welder. The AC only welders are cheaper than AD/DC welders. They may be a little more difficult to learn to weld with because 120 times a second the source of power passes through zero. The only other time I know of when you would use AC is when Arc Blow is a problem. This usually happens when you are welding with DC current above 250 amps or welding on material that is magnetized.

The only reason I know DC minus is used is for welding on thinner material at lower amperage. I am sure the need for this can be offset by learning proper technique eliminating the need to go from DC plus to DC minus and from a 6010 to say a 6013. For me, I still burn holes in the thin stuff, no matter what I do.

So unless you are welding on something magnetized and have learned proper technique, Mr. Sberry is right, there is no reason to change from the DC plus and the 6010 and 7018 on mild steel.

I would still like to know why the 6011 has not been accepted as code since it is a fast freeze rod and very similar to the 6010 in penetration. I know there are many places that sell welding supplies, like hardware stores for instance, that don’t even carry the 6010. I guess it is because most of those buying these rods are handy man welders and are using AC machines and the two rods are so similar.

[Sberry]

I believe Lincoln says Xray pipe work in their selection guide for 6011.

[Sberry]

I would rather use a 6010 but bought 6011 the last time just because it was priced right and easy to get. As for burning holes, really very rarely and its cause I wasn't paying attn anyway and the amount of sheet with stick is minimal so I don't fool with specialty setups, turn the current down a little and make do. I saw 6011 3/32 at the powerhouse done on sheet metal, as I recall it was done DCRP.

[KBar]

Maybe because my variety of welding is larger but I actually thought it was smaller all this time compared to what everyone else does. I weld in a municipal garage so I could be welding on a police car one day with a 6013 or welding 1 inch plate on a 544 loader the next day using a 7024.

I have welded most thicknesses and used many rods. I do not have a preference on any, each one serves its own purpose.

[6010]

Ken,
Have you noticed any difference between the various manufacturers ? Say between a Hobart made rod and a Lincoln or whatever.

[KBar]

Ken,
Have you noticed any difference between the various manufacturers ? Say between a Hobart made rod and a Lincoln or whatever.

I really haven't but I will only buy at a supply house, not Lowes or Sears. There was a place up the street that used to sell rods loose, I just forget what they were but I bought a few one time because I couldn't find them anywhere else. I found a little moisture setting in so I stopped going there, now I just buy them by the box.

[DAKW]

I got a set of Miller weld calculators gives me the starting points for most rods a lot quicker then draging out the book. got one for MIG & TIG also.

[Jolly Roger]

I have done considerable code work and 6011 is just as acceptable as 6010. All code jobs and shops have to have a written, tested, and certified procedure. This procedure cannot be deviated from or it becomes invalid. This means you have to use the same electrodes used in the certified procedure.

6011 doesn't seem to suffer from arc blow as bad as 6010. Magnetism will cause arc blow, but I have burned tons of this stuff on brand new steel at well below 250 amps and still had to fight it. The easiest way to deal with magnetism is switch to ac. If that option is unavailable try switching polarity, or wrapping the ground lead around the work piece. It can neutralize the magnetism (and switching polarity may be required) because it turns it into an electro-magnet.

6011 works better on the thin stuff because it doesn't dig quite as hard as 6010. It isn't quite as brittle as 6010 either in my experience. I primarily use 7018 in what I do because it is an all position rod and is second only to 7024 in elasticity. Anything that vibrates needs to be welded with 7018 or 7024 (preferred because it has the highest elasticity coefficient and resistance to vibration). I am trying out FCAW on the lighter stuff to see how well it holds up versus 60XX. I have already determined it is faster and cheaper.

I buy 7018 rods in this order: Lincoln Excalibur, Harris, LH-70, McKay, anything else, then Hobart, Atom Arc and I refuse to weld if all I can get is UniBraze. In 6010 it's Lincoln 5P+, then 5P. I'm not sure anyone else can even manufacture 6010 as I have never seen any that wasn't Lincoln. As for 6011 I really have no preference. In 7024 I use Lincoln Jet, any type.

I keep 7018 and 6011 in 3/32, 1/8 & 5/32. 6010 in 1/8, and 7024 in 1/8 and 5/32. I also have some 1/8 Ni-rod for cast. Not my preference but it was all I could get at the time. The best thing I have found for cast so far is AllState Cor-Cast 8600 flux cored mig wire (supposed to run 98%Ar - 2% O2 gas shield), but I have had good luck using it joining cast iron to steel and repairing 100+ year old castings with pre and post heat without the gas. Ni-rod is about 8 bucks a pound and corcast is about 35 per pound. I don't know what the foulup was but I got the spool of corcast for 8 a pound.

I use Lincoln wires in 10-12 lb spools because I get the best price on them and they give excellent results. I have burned tons of ESAB copper clad wire in the Mig and never had any problems. I'm fixing to be able to use 30 lb spools and then it will mostly depend on what I can get.

That's my 25 cents worth.