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Handrail Project

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  • Handrail Project

    Hello, this is the First time posting a project on this forum. Here are some of before during and installed.
    Clilck on this link to Flicker

  • #2
    handrail project

    Looks real good I see you have alot of 11-r clamps I have 23, looks like you may have a few more than me. Nice job anyways


    • #3

      Did you use a power hammer ? Or is all that done by hand ?


      • #4
        It was a joint effort between the two hammers. Hand and power!

        I think I have about 50 11r's 6 18r's or about. I have used them all at one time, Can't have enough clamps. I like clamp first to see what have before I weld or rivet.


        • #5
          In the 14th pic -'Straightening grab rail' - is there a name for that tool.

          It looks to be some kind of ratcheting straightener / bender.


          • #6
            Oh yeah -

            Nice railing !

            Nice shop !!

            Nice cabin !!!


            • #7
              It really dressed up the house. looks really good


              • #8
                Looks good/Nice shop.

                You build all your railing off those big HSS you got mounted vertically or are those just temp for this job?I noticed you have what looks to be 1"thk. base plates anchored to the floor too.Ans is that a Grizzly Band saw i saw in one of those pics?
                S-32 FEEDER W/1260 IRONMATE FC/GUN
                HT/PWR-MAX1250 PLASMA


                • #9
                  Yes I built the railing off of the square tube mounted vertically mounted to the 1” plate with four bolts at each corner through the plate so I can plumb the tube to match the columns at the house. Then made the jig out of 1”x2” X1/8” tube and built off of that. The band saw is a Harbor Freight saw if you look at it close it is the same saw that MSC Wilton and Enco sells. First thing I did is put a good Lennox bi-metal blade on it. The saw cuts square. I'm happy with the saw for what I do with it.
                  Rick Cline


                  • #10
                    Chuck U&R
                    The bender I made to put arcs on cap rails for a project I built last year and now I use it for a lot of different things. From arcing cap rails to straighten the balusters in the photos. I have used to straighten Drill rods for boring machines. It has made me money.
                    I made it from a rack & pinion driven by a torque multiplier rated at 1 to 4 and a 3/4 drive ratchet.
                    The contraption dose a lot of work without a lot of effort. I can feel what I am doing with the pressure I put on the ratchet.
                    Thanks for asking
                    Rick Cline
                    Click link for more phptos of bender
                    Last edited by Rick C; 12-06-2009, 12:24 PM. Reason: to add photos


                    • #11
                      You do very nice work.
                      I have a few questions if you dont mine.

                      1-Do you use autocad or the sort of program for the projects?
                      2-Are the square holes at the bottom strapping punched or plasma cut?
                      3-And last do you heat the top of the uprights rivets style and pound them? If you do, do you still weld them from underneath?

                      Again those are beautifull raillings



                      • #12
                        1. I physically go to the job site and measure and make patterns of the project and lay it out on the wall or the floor of the shop. I would take me longer to learn AutoCAD than to do it the old fashion way and it seems to come out right for me. This hand rail fit like a glove the first time no rework just installed it.
                        2. The holes are punched.
                        3. Rivets are forged and everything is welded so you can’t see the welds. In other words the welds are on the back side or on the stairway side. I use Pulse mig nice clean weld and lays in real nice hardly any weld splatter to clean up.
                        Rick Cline
                        Last edited by Rick C; 12-06-2009, 01:40 PM.


                        • #13

                          Love it when everything fits like a glove.
                          Do you do this for living?


                          • #14

                            Hi Rick- that is a really clever and simple idea you came up with! How does the torque multiplier work? Have you ever broke a tooth on the gear?


                            • #15
                              Hand torque multipliers incorporate an ‘epicyclic’ or ‘planetary’ gear train having one or more stages. Each stage of
                              gearing increases the torque applied by a factor of 5, allowing Norbar to offer multipliers typically in ratios of 5:1, 25:1
                              and 125:1.
                              In the planetary gear system, torque is applied to the input gear or ‘sun’ gear.Three or four planet gears whose teeth
                              are engaged with the sun gear therefore rotate. The outside casing of the multiplier, or ‘annulus’ is also engaged with
                              the planet gear teeth, and would normally rotate in the opposite direction to the sun gear. A reaction arm prevents
                              the annulus from rotating, and this causes the planet gears to orbit around the sun. The planet gears are held in a
                              ‘planetary’ carrier which also holds the output square drive. Therefore as the planet gears orbit around the sun gear,
                              the carrier and so the square drive turns.
                              Without the reaction arm to keep the annulus stationary, the output square will not apply torque.
                              No I don’t think I can put enough torque on the rack & pinion to break a tooth it is heavy set up. My multiplier I have is a 4to1 ¾” drive in and 1” out put.