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Getting into a safe.

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  • urch55
    replied
    That sounds just as bad as having a bomb in a coffin just in case a body snatcher comes along.

    Leave a comment:


  • tom37
    replied
    WOW PT!!

    Cyanide !! I guess that would take care of the burglar, and then some.

    I defiantly appreciate the info Sir. I try my best to look ahead and even try to stop for a second and think of the common sense kinda stuff. I thought about the concrete and drilled a tiny hole to make sure that it was only steel. I never thought about asbestoses tho, I guess it makes sense for fire proofing.

    I will defiantly keep these tips in mind if I ever come across this again.

    Leave a comment:


  • PTsideshow
    replied
    Two statements of caution on cutting into old safes,
    Some are filled between the steel walls with concrete and or asbestos/cement combo. A big mess as the dust goes everywhere and is a pain I A to clean up not to mention a health/toxic waste hazard.

    Some of the real old safes, had vials of cyanide in the doors as a burglar proofing system. As I wasn't a safe man, just locks and keys I don't remember the dates when they quite using it them. But I do know there are still a lot of them out there. So be careful if you start working on the doors of any real old ones.

    As to the tooth could have been his or his child's tooth, it is amazing what is kept in the safes by people. There are always interesting stories in the locksmithing magazine.

    Leave a comment:


  • m.k.swelding
    replied
    Pad lock will work fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalmeltr
    replied
    Originally posted by urch55 View Post
    Tom now you can add safe cracking, cutting, getting into on your resume.. Looks like a nice weld job putting the patch back in.
    Bob
    Also be sure to add
    welding the safe back together to hide the evidince.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andy
    replied
    Originally posted by gda View Post
    Try taking the cover off the inside where the dial is. You may see how easy it is to change the combinations on some safes. On my MOSLER safe there are 3 brass rings with engraved numbers that mount via a 100 tooth spline. Changing the combinaition is as simple as removing the rings and lining the numbers you want for the combination up with arrows on the hub.
    Most combo locks I've seen have a change key. You insert the change key into the backside of the lock. Give the key a 1/4 turn. Dial in the new combo using the 'changing mark' instead of the 'opening mark' (changing mark is at the 11 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock). Give the key a 1/4 turn in the opposite direction and remove the key. Test the new combo by locking and unlocking the door without closing it. All total maybe 5 minutes. If there's a keyhole on the backside of the lock, I'd start looking at buying or making a change key (square stock with a little tab, or something similar)

    Leave a comment:


  • gda
    replied
    Try taking the cover off the inside where the dial is. You may see how easy it is to change the combinations on some safes. On my MOSLER safe there are 3 brass rings with engraved numbers that mount via a 100 tooth spline. Changing the combinaition is as simple as removing the rings and lining the numbers you want for the combination up with arrows on the hub.

    Leave a comment:


  • tom37
    replied
    Thank You strength and power, for the possible name of the safe. The neighbor was wondering who is was made by since it has no name anywhere on it.

    Well he called around today and found that his good buddy locksmith was gona slam the bill right in his kester!!

    40 bucks will get it in working order, he is going to lift the door off the hinge and run it in the store.


    Over 100 bucks to 40, really makes ya wounder what good buddies are for.

    Thank You for the compliment urch.

    Leave a comment:


  • urch55
    replied
    A Safe is not Safe around Tom

    Tom now you can add safe cracking, cutting, getting into on your resume.. Looks like a nice weld job putting the patch back in.
    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • STRENGTH AND POWER
    replied
    Thats looks to be a McGunn B-rate safe. Used in a lot of convenience type stores in the midwest. McGunn is now defunct. 175 is a bit on the high side to reset a combo, Since it is in the back of the truck, he can drive it to a lockshop and avoid paying a service call which is about 75-90 bucks

    Leave a comment:


  • tom37
    replied
    Sorry guys I forgot about what was in it.

    There was several leather goods, such as coin holder, wallet, and pouch with 4 old watches. Some rocks. And I dont think they were the kind of rocks that are worth money. There was a clarinet, complete with all the parts and a nice case. Oh yes there was a small pill case with a tooth in it. I'm not sure why the tooth was in there.

    The neighbor is going to check on the lock fix tomorrow. I know nothing about the locking mech. This one has a dial for the combination, with a key hole below and to the right of the dial. Then there is a 3 knob dial to turn the bolts after the lock releases. I almost want to think that from the setup inside, that you may have to have the key and the combination.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim-TX
    replied
    Shop around before paying $175 just to change the combination!!!!!! That's way high.

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  • Fishy Jim
    replied
    What was in it?

    Leave a comment:


  • tom37
    started a topic Getting into a safe.

    Getting into a safe.











    I had the neighbor call me up this weekend and ask if I thought I had something to cut into a safe. My first question was (is it your's?). Well he had a good friend of his pass, and the safe was left to my neighbor. Tonight was the first chance I had so I backed his truck over to my driveway. A few minutes with the metabo and we were in from the back side. I was able to unbolt the locking bolts and get the door open. The reason for this is that the locksmith wants 475 dollars to get inside and then fix the lock-set to a new combination. If the door is open he will fix the lock for 175 dollars. The pics arnt the greatest but here they are. Oh yes, the top, bottom, and sides are 3/16th plate bent and welded and the door is 3/8th.








    I know it wasnt anything really wild but I thought it was pretty cool.
    Last edited by tom37; 06-30-2009, 10:18 PM.
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