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  • Geezer
    started a topic Forks for Tractor Front Loader

    Forks for Tractor Front Loader

    A friend of mine has a small 28 horse tractor with a front loader. He would like some forks so he can move small palletts and other stuff.

    I thought I would ask and see if anyone has any ideas/recommendations wrt design and type of metal? I seen a home brew set with 1 1/4 solid bar stock with welded brackets that slip on the loader. I also seen flat stock that affix to the loader with bolts, reenforced on the bottom for strength. Recommendations appreciated. Thanks

  • gus203
    replied
    Thanks for the compliment, They have moved some good sized loads of logs. I know the limits of the FEL on my little tractor and would rather not over do it. That was the main reason for not over building the forks. Glad to help.

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  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by gus203 View Post
    I might have posted these before, but here goes. Made from 2 in. channel and 1 1/2 angle. Channel on top angle on the bottom. 2- 3/8 bolts per side bolted from the bottom of the bucket. Hope it helps . I have a TC33 NH
    Thanks Gus. Appears you have the angle running under the bucket for support and a place to bolt the forks. Correct? Practical and straight forward. I'll show these to my friend and have him verify if he wants this type or a set that clamps on like gda's for width adjustments. I guess one could always drill more holes.

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  • gus203
    replied
    I might have posted these before, but here goes. Made from 2 in. channel and 1 1/2 angle. Channel on top angle on the bottom. 2- 3/8 bolts per side bolted from the bottom of the bucket. Hope it helps . I have a TC33 NH
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by m.k.swelding View Post
    if it was me I would just look for a set of used ones at a scrap yard
    M.K.

    Good point, logical, common sense. However, it takes all the fun out of the fab/welding

    Leave a comment:


  • m.k.swelding
    replied
    if it was me I would just look for a set of used ones at a scrap yard

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by vin-man welding View Post
    may i suggest you google the tractor model and copy the OEM style for your forks.
    keep on mind that putting the forks on to the bucket will ad to the leverage point decreasing your lifting capacity.
    Good point, done that this PM, appears Massey uses all after markets. Some similar to griff01 and gda suggestions. appreciate the inputs.

    Leave a comment:


  • vin-man welding
    replied
    may i suggest you google the tractor model and copy the OEM style for your forks.
    keep on mind that putting the forks on to the bucket will ad to the leverage point decreasing your lifting capacity.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by sailor View Post
    I built some extended forks for a local cable t.v. company. They said the max load whould be moving 2000lb cable spools.Well I found out there moving 6000lb pound cable spools,I asked nicely please don't do this something bad is going to happen. They still continuing the practice as I cringe.

    I should not have that problem, his tractor is probably limited to 1/4 ton lift.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie
    You got it...but I was thinking pockets[recievers] ion outside of bucket walls[sides] to reduce damage to them, depending on what your bucket's use is for.
    Don't mean to sound like a nag, but I missed something in the translation.
    How can the horizontal pipe slip through the fork sleeves if the receivers are on the outside walls???? Unless the receivers are mounted vertical on the bucket and the horizontal pipe is formed on each end to a 90 to slip into the receivers. If that is the case, then the forks are always mounted on the horizontal pipe and placed on the bucket as one unit. That may be too cumbersome for my aging friend.

    I like the flexibility to easily adjust the width of the forks, ofcourse gda purposal is adjustable. I guess the penny has not dropped yet. I just need to get the right mental picture.

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  • sailor
    replied
    Wish I didn't

    I built some extended forks for a local cable t.v. company. They said the max load whould be moving 2000lb cable spools.Well I found out there moving 6000lb pound cable spools,I asked nicely please don't do this something bad is going to happen. They still continuing the practice as I cringe.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by gda View Post
    I made forks for my machine out of 2" square stock wth a 3/16" wall. It is what I had on hand for material and made them 2 tubes wide. I've moved 1500# pallets of stone with them. The clamp uses a stainless steel bolt and nut so it never rusts up. It was all scrap I had on hand. For your machine channel will be best - Solid bar would be adding lots of weight against the total lift capacity of the tractor for little gain.

    One more thing - when you weld them up you are going to be going for lots of penetration - which will cause warpage. For my forks I welded both up in the same manner and they warped the same - so they are even. (some people are probably scoffing at this - but hey - they are scrap metal forks - not a surgical instrument)
    GDA, thanks for the pics, those are stout forks!!!! Probably more than we need, but they could be modified to a smaller scale. Stainless steel threaded rod???? Wish I had that stuff laying loose. I'll chew on these suggestions and see where it leads. Thanks for the reply.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by griff01 View Post
    Northern Tool has them in their catalog. You could copy or modify from their pictures.

    Griff
    I check it out Griff, thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Geezer
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie
    end of fork towards bucket come up on a 90,top have sleeve of pipe width of channel on top,sides of bucket outside have pockets horizontal to recieve insert that has pipe with 90 hss on each end, pipe long enough to span bucket width.have this set up at height that bottom heal of fork will rest against bucket bottom[cutting edge].pockets can be hss that can be sleeved into another hss that is on pipe ends much like reciever,put a vertical pin between two,pipe on top of fork will sleeve other pipe alowing adjustment and the physics of heal on bucket bottom will keep forks level ,might want to gusset where channels come up on 90...could also drill sleeved pipes for pins to keep forks at desired width
    Thanks Reggie. I think I got it. Appears are suggesting to fab pockets on each inside wall of the bucket to hold one single length of pipe that will rest in the pockets and span the horizontal width of the bucket. Correct? This same horizontal span will fit into the sleeves welded to the top of the forks. Understand the gusset. Am I on target with your recommendation? If not, if you have a pic that would help a bunch. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • gda
    replied
    I made forks for my machine out of 2" square stock wth a 3/16" wall. It is what I had on hand for material and made them 2 tubes wide. I've moved 1500# pallets of stone with them. The clamp uses a stainless steel bolt and nut so it never rusts up. It was all scrap I had on hand. For your machine channel will be best - Solid bar would be adding lots of weight against the total lift capacity of the tractor for little gain.

    One more thing - when you weld them up you are going to be going for lots of penetration - which will cause warpage. For my forks I welded both up in the same manner and they warped the same - so they are even. (some people are probably scoffing at this - but hey - they are scrap metal forks - not a surgical instrument)
    Attached Files
    Last edited by gda; 04-12-2009, 10:40 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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