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  • HMW
    replied
    Thanks fun4now and Dabar I've seen some pretty cool stuff you guys have made

    I'm a freak when when it comes to wiring!!!! I wire up stuff so you never have to touch it again and "if" you do, its workable, Like juction boxes, colored coded wires and weather pac connectors. The greatest thing I like is heat shrink butt connectors, you crimp them like a regular butt connector then use a heat gun to melt the heat shrink thats already on them. They work very well, water proof, will not pull apart and last for years. I've worked on some real junk before, for example. We had some bucket trucks that were made by Asplundh [when they used to build bucket trucks] and all the wire for the aerial device was "RED". Like 25 wires all red. What a stupid way to build something.
    The notch is for the factory spare tire crank tube. Although I'm changing the bed, I still wanted it as factory as i could make it. Thats the reason for the original rear bumper and all.
    I've got another sheet of diamond plate coming today to use for the mud flap brackets and a few other things. So far everything is aluminum
    I'll keep up with pics as we get closer to being done.

    Leave a comment:


  • dabar39
    replied
    I'm impressed

    HMW, Really nice professional looking job you have done. I like the neat clean look to it, makes it look as if it is factory built. I noticed the attention to details, such as the neat wiring and the notch for the jack handle. Awesome job. Dave

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  • fun4now
    replied
    WOW!!! that looks great.

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  • HMW
    replied
    Darmik

    They can't wait to use it. The bins came yesterday so we had to set them on to see what they would like. I welded on the fuel filler neck mount that I made. Still need to file the edge of the bracket. My 17 yr old son started the wiring and it looks nice. All in loom and clamped up. All heat shrink connectors and everything runs to a junction box on the frame. From the box there will be a pigtail that plugs into the factory plug. So to remove the body all it will be is 8 bolts and 1 plug.
    first 2 pics are the filler neck bracket 3rd pic is some wiring, 4th is my son hooking up the rear lights, and the last pic is with the bins setting on it still on the lift
    Good pay up there but I'm not a welder by trade. I'm a mechanic [actually shop foreman now] but have always worked on hydraulic, aerial, and construction equipment, Which means lots of repairs and fabrication[welding]. Alot of road work. I have a small welding business on the side, sorta like a hobby that pays for itself. This is the first big thing I've made out of all aluminum. We only make alum, trailer ramps at work for the equipment trailers, everything else is steel. Mechanics here are at $31.88 + $1.00 shift. So pay is similar looks like.

    Thanks everybody for the comments and compliments, I've picked up lots form here.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by HMW; 08-15-2007, 09:31 AM. Reason: spelling

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  • HMW
    replied
    Got to work on it a little more

    BWS29128 The floor is 3/16" diamond plate with the floor joists set 12" apart, seems pretty stable in between the joists. The floor joists are 3" channel and the main channel is 4". Both are close to 1/4" thick [.247" and .258" actually]. The idea came from my wife needing to add a truck to her pool and property maint, business. The bed of the 2008 super duty is to high for her to reach the side boxes, so I thought about making a flat bed to lower the boxes. Checked on prices of some flat beds, and like you, about fell out. And really none I found were exactly like we wanted. So far in aluminum we have$1300.00, [prices for beds were $2500-$4500] Lights were about $80 not including wire, loom , clamps etc. The lights came from NAPA and are "trucklite" brand, shock mount lights. They are excellant lights, They have nice plugs on the back side and are mounted in rubber. You have to buy the light, grommet and pigtail seperate but I only have $55 in all the lights, $30 in the junction box. You can actually submerge these lights and they will still work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Darmik
    replied
    Okay okay HMW

    I cant wait well I guess I'll have to but hurry up I think I'm more excited than your wife to see this get done than she is.But then I wouldn't trade my job for anything,If I was down there I'd ask ya if I could help finish it with ya well never the less I love it so far.I know we could sure use a talented person like your self here.we start people like you at $27.98.

    Leave a comment:


  • BWS29128
    replied
    More Questions

    AWESOME truck bed!

    What thickness is the 6061 diamond plate and what thicknesses are your 4" Channel?

    How did you get the idea/design?

    I'd love a work-bed and have looked at Knapheide and others but find them waaaay out of my price range! Have you got a cost-estimate on this bed?

    Where'd you buy your lights? Are they special-made for this type of application or are they something I could find under the waterproof trailer lights at the TSC store?

    ~Clint

    Leave a comment:


  • HMW
    replied
    Originally posted by Darmik View Post
    I buy a non slip tape it's made by 3M 4" wide it comes in a roll peel and stick.
    this is good stuff have a look at it anyway.
    "I don't know how tall your wife is" but if you are going to put storage boxes on the bottom of the deck with the doors facing curb side and street side,could you not have the same on the top of the deck? I don't know how tall from the groung to the top of the deck is might be what 40"tall?
    We use that tape here too, We put it on bucket steps. remember I work on bucket trucks and digger derricks for a living. {Even work on some of them Altec's, looking at a "AM900" 92 footer as I type this] The boxes are not going to be below the deck but on top. with doors facing curb/street side. Your right, I think its close to 40"tall to the top of the deck. just right height for her to reach inside the box

    Leave a comment:


  • Darmik
    replied
    3m

    I buy a non slip tape it's made by 3M 4" wide it comes in a roll peel and stick.
    this is good stuff have a look at it anyway.
    "I don't know how tall your wife is" but if you are going to put storage boxes on the bottom of the deck with the doors facing curb side and street side,could you not have the same on the top of the deck? I don't know how tall from the groung to the top of the deck is might be what 40"tall?

    Leave a comment:


  • HMW
    replied
    Originally posted by Darmik View Post
    Okay this is what I was going to say this morning but I thought that I would wait until you are finished but you know your right I guess I should have said what I was going to say because you might not have thought of something .Anyway Very nice job.
    The gussets that’s what I do, Not many people do that or should I say don't do that because they forget or don't bother to. Is it 6061 Aluminum? Did you fill in the end of the frame? So when you put the deck on you not only bolt to the sides but also the back?
    I guess later down the road you'll replace the bumper and add mud flaps? It just that, that part looks odd. What did you do about the filler necks? I guess you'll also add a tie down handrail on two sides and build a bulkhead at the front? Did you lay down a thin piece of styro foam between the deck and the frame? (The same kind that you would use between wood and concrete.) You used channel to bolt the deck down why not plates? It’s just that it looks like you used 3" channel to bolt down with and a plate could have been 8"x12" with three bolts on the bottom and more area to weld the top. I thought you were going to use a vibration mount front or back? Are you going to put down a none slip paint or tape for the deck?

    Lets see if I can answer all these. Yes its 6061 alum, No I did not fill in the end of the main frame rails [4"channel]. it will be bolted on each side not in the end. Hard to bolt the frame to the back with the excisting bumper there. Im going to use the original bumper. remember short wife? makes a great step. Still need to make mud flap brackets and have made the filler neck bracket just not put on yet. No bulkhead at the front. Thought about it but its getting a tool box across the front and it will come to the bottom of the rear window. If i made a bulk head there you would not see it because of the tool box. I dont want it above the window since they would loose rear visibilty. They work in a resort and looking over your shoulder is important. It will get [2] 6' side boxes which will almost be the lenght of the bed down each side. so no side rails needed. There is a 1" x 2" pc of oak between the steel and the aluminum frame. I used channel at the rear to bolt the deck down because the springs are going to be inside the channel. {not installed yet} and the channel would give some more lateral strength not that you would need it. [left to right] when its done and bolted on it'll be easier to understand why I made it that way. Not sure what to do with non-slip. Dont want to paint it??
    You have to keep in mind I built this a flat bed to lower the side boxes, not because they need a typical flat bed. If it was intended to be used as a typical flat bed I would have made it out of steel to stand the normal rough treatment that a flat bed usually recieves. So even though its a flat bed, its designed as a tool box carrier, if that makes sense.The original body with cross and side boxes was to high for her to reach from the ground. They seldom need to get in the back, Everything can be reached from ground level.

    Thanks for the comments. always gives me things to think about. It'll look better with the tool boxes on. It looks kinda "flat" right now. Still have it off truck and hopefully in next day or so will wire up lights. Tool boxes should be here any day. Would work on it tonight except gotta help them spread 12 yrds of mulch this evening

    Leave a comment:


  • jonnymag
    replied
    Very nice. I'm jealous.

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  • acsuppa
    replied
    Very nice job!

    Leave a comment:


  • Darmik
    replied
    Nice Truck

    Okay this is what I was going to say this morning but I thought that I would wait until you are finished but you know your right I guess I should have said what I was going to say because you might not have thought of something .Anyway Very nice job.
    The gussets that’s what I do, Not many people do that or should I say don't do that because they forget or don't bother to. Is it 6061 Aluminum? Did you fill in the end of the frame? So when you put the deck on you not only bolt to the sides but also the back?
    I guess later down the road you'll replace the bumper and add mud flaps? It just that, that part looks odd. What did you do about the filler necks? I guess you'll also add a tie down handrail on two sides and build a bulkhead at the front? Did you lay down a thin piece of styro foam between the deck and the frame? (The same kind that you would use between wood and concrete.) You used channel to bolt the deck down why not plates? It’s just that it looks like you used 3" channel to bolt down with and a plate could have been 8"x12" with three bolts on the bottom and more area to weld the top. I thought you were going to use a vibration mount front or back? Are you going to put down a none slip paint or tape for the deck?

    Leave a comment:


  • HMW
    replied
    No its not done, still have to make brackets for fuel filler neck, mud flaps etc and have, since i took the pics, installed back up lights. No need for tag light since its still in the original place. I'll take a pic of the wiring when i get done. Its going to use the factory body plug wired into a juction box. If I ever want to take the bed off its one plug and 8 bolts.

    ps; you can comment any time, I might have forgot something Or you might have another idea

    Fun4now, it's a Millermatic pulser. really a 210 with pulsed spool gun. This is the thickest material I have ever used it on and it was at the top of its range it seemed. The problem I had was once in awhile it would weld itself to the tip and birdcage or the other way around. I was using 4043 .035. I tried 5356 and it was all smutty and it didnt have the heat range on my machine the 4043 did. Settings were tap 6 wire speed 100 and -5 on pulse setting. Really is for 3/8 but since welds were short and spaced out this setting worked very good with nice welds except when it would act crazy.
    Last edited by HMW; 08-13-2007, 07:35 AM.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    cool.
    my wife is like 4' nothing so i know about not being able to reach stuff.
    step sound like a good idea.

    what kind of problems did you have with the spool gun ?? and what setup is it ??

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