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  • shade tree welder
    replied
    got it done

    got er done i welded the ear back on with 7018, i did not have the type of flux core wire on hand that you guys recommended, of course on Saturday afternoon all the lws are closed. I left the pin in while i welded, let it cool down overnite with pin in ,next mourning the pin slid rite out. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED Still waiting on the bucket fingers that need to be replaced, backorder from supplier. Thanks for the info guys,

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  • MMW
    replied
    Did you get it done?

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  • MMW
    replied
    Originally posted by SkidSteerSteve View Post
    Ok, I'm stepping way out of my experience level here, but wouldn't you need to do some sort of line boring on the repaired eyes to make sure everything was true so as to not induce extra stresses and accelerated wear on the pivot points? Just curious. SSS
    As long as the pin goes in smoothly & is not sloppy it will not have extra stress. You are correct in thinking that if it went to someone that does this type of work all the time both ears would be cut off & new ones installed then line bored. I just assumed that he didn't have that type of equipment so the next best thing would be 2" diameter wheels on a grinder or a good die grinder. That would be the very time consuming part of the job that I mentioned.

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  • SkidSteerSteve
    replied
    Ok, I'm stepping way out of my experience level here, but wouldn't you need to do some sort of line boring on the repaired eyes to make sure everything was true so as to not induce extra stresses and accelerated wear on the pivot points? Just curious. SSS

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  • MMW
    replied
    7018 would be good. When you say flux core I'm assuming you mean gasless wire? There are many types of wire & some are no good for this application. For example Lincoln NR-211 is only recommended for welding up to 1/2" thick steel. E71T-GS wire is for single pass only. Neither one would be good for this. I would recomend Lincoln NR-212 1/16" diameter wire which is a self shielded wire. Lincoln 71m or ESAB 7100 ultra which are dual-shield wires (need gas). Line up & tack on the machine with the pin, then remove & brace. Put pin back in & weld 1 pass on each side alternating until you get the size weld you want. The bent ear will require lots of heat to straighten & might be oblonged/egg shaped when bent back. You can weld up the bore & then grind it back to shape. Very time consuming to do a nice job. To weld on shanks (tooth keepers?), cut of old & weld on new with 7018 or a good wire like I recomended above. I never hard face them. Air-arc run about 90 psi. Even a small compressor will work but you might have to gouge some & then let the compressor catch up before you gouge some more.

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  • mwccwi
    replied
    Here's the recommendations from the Tweco arcair literature that I posted priviously

    Here's the recommendations from the Tweco arcair literature that I posted priviously

    Type of Torch psi Kpa cfm L/min. hp kW hp kW gal lit.
    Light Duty (2) 40 280 8 227 .5 0.4 1.5 1.1 60 227
    General Duty (2) 80 550 25 708 5 3.7 7.5 5.6 80 303
    Multipurpose (3) 80 550 33 934 7.5 5.6 10 7.5 80 303
    Automatic (4) 60 414 46 1303 15 11.2 80 303

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  • fun4now
    replied
    Steve, i think he means how much flow??CFPM to know if his compressor will keep up or not.

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  • Steve
    replied
    Arcair recommends 90 psi minimum.

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  • mwccwi
    replied
    Originally posted by shade tree welder View Post
    Thanks darmik for Quick response, i was leaning toward flux core in such it would be faster, one more question . How much air supply do you need to run an arc gouger? ran one 30 years ago but this sometimers disease is getting the best of me. Arcair makes a medium duty torch which i think i can run off my trailblazer to gouge these keeper teeth off but i do not know if the ole craftsman compressor will supply enough air?
    you need abobe PDF reader, but free downloads are everywhere.

    http://www.thermadyne.com/twecoarcai...89_250_008.pdf
    see page 2-12

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  • JonnyTIG
    replied
    Make sure you do a little pre heating to weld the ear back on, say heat it until your spit boils off (: It's probably T-1, and FCAW will work fine with most wires. Also like Darmik said make sure the pin is inplace, and also, cross brace the bucket ears with some heavy tubing or flat bar. Typically use the same for the adapters. If you have a fire blanket wrap the parts and let them cool slowly, though this is not absolutely nescessary.

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  • shade tree welder
    replied
    arc gouging?

    Thanks darmik for Quick response, i was leaning toward flux core in such it would be faster, one more question . How much air supply do you need to run an arc gouger? ran one 30 years ago but this sometimers disease is getting the best of me. Arcair makes a medium duty torch which i think i can run off my trailblazer to gouge these keeper teeth off but i do not know if the ole craftsman compressor will supply enough air?

    Leave a comment:


  • Darmik
    replied
    Need Fast Help!

    Well flux core is good. Put the pin back in and tack the ears back on brace the ears so they wont pull in all kinds of directions then take the pin out and weld alternate passes from one side to another.

    The tooth keepers replaced on another bucket, I believe those can be pinned ,bolted or welded on then you would hard surface the top and bottom of the tooth.

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  • shade tree welder
    started a topic Need Fast Help!

    Need Fast Help!

    Customer called this mourning help ,help, Broke eye off trackhoe bucket , got there sure thing ripped one eye off that holds the 3-1/2" pin that goes through the backhoe boom, bent the other eye need to fix asap. My question is when i weld the new bracket back on should i lo-hydro rod - flux core- or plain wire? Also he informed me he needs the tooth keepers replaced on another bucket, same situation or are they welded on and maybe hradsurfaced on top of the welds?
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