I just got in a Meyers snowplow that needs refaced. As soon as i get the sheet rolled i will put up some pics...Bob
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Snowplow reface
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That's what I thought. I've never done a snowplow, but I've done several D9 Cat dozers. they are rolled to a smaller radius then tacked on the bottom and run up on something solid and tacked on top befroe welding out.
I was curious to see if the same method was applied to the plow.Jeff
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Did it from a flat sheet, rolled it on in place. Look at the last pic, blow some holes in the angles to let the water drain out.
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Sberry
nice job.
aametalmaster, how is yours comming along ??thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
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I shouldnt have hijacked Bob's thread. He is or probably will be aware of the drain hole problem, its an easy fix with the skin off.
I will agree about the old Meyers, I got mine for free and thats about what its worth. One major big pain in the azz.
I didnt have the sheet rolled, did it on the frame with a couple clamps.Last edited by Sberry; 07-28-2008, 02:33 PM.
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No prob on the hijacking thats how we all learn. I guess .080 ish steel can be bent around pretty easy sure better than 3/16" plate from the old days. This plow is only 2 years old and took a beating last winter plus the salt eating at it. The only thing i did so far is order the steel and price a new cutting edge, his is broke but i would use it like that if it was mine it won't hurt a thing unless it falls apart on a big job so i guess a new one would be a good idea...Bob.Bob Wright
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Just cut out a cardboard template to give to the shop doing the forming. A lot of times plows or dozer blades aren't a perfect radius, especially if worn or bent, so a template will get you very close.MM250
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Originally posted by Sberry View PostDid it from a flat sheet, rolled it on in place. Look at the last pic, blow some holes in the angles to let the water drain out.Millermatic 210
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No heat, I believe it was 16ga. I used the full sheet to help with muscling it and as I recall had a 4 inch channel or something I clamped along it, I figured out something, as I recall it took an hour or so. If I was going to roll it I would have it slightly undersized so I could spring it back against it, with 16 I could manage , heavier would likely be a problem.
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Well its almost done. I just need to bolt the cutting edge on when it comes in. I used 14 ga sheetmetal a 2x4 and a hyd jack with a chain wraped around the plow and the metal jacked down using the chain on top of the jack. 3 jacks would have worked better for re adjustment reasons. My arbor press would have been great to use if i had it welded together. Cost was 64 bucks for the sheetmetal and 120 for the cutting edge with shipping and 10 bucks for the paint...BobBob Wright
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Originally posted by aametalmaster View PostWell its almost done. I just need to bolt the cutting edge on when it comes in. I used 14 ga sheetmetal a 2x4 and a hyd jack with a chain wraped around the plow and the metal jacked down using the chain on top of the jack. 3 jacks would have worked better for re adjustment reasons. My arbor press would have been great to use if i had it welded together. Cost was 64 bucks for the sheetmetal and 120 for the cutting edge with shipping and 10 bucks for the paint...BobBB402D
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