Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Lets see some beads

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • SignWave
    started a topic Lets see some beads

    Lets see some beads

    We havent had any beads around here in a while. I'd love to see some decent Stainless welds- seeing as how thats where my troubles have been lately. Anyone care to share?

    Ive pasted 4 pics. Four different levels of competance. 4 pics, 4 minutes of experience....
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SignWave; 06-25-2008, 12:01 AM.

  • mdhawthorne
    replied
    Great beads!

    Originally posted by jdustu View Post
    there are a bunch of practice bead pics in this set on my flickr:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/browndo...7607259742189/

    -Josh
    Excellent use of Flickr to shar your photos!

    Leave a comment:


  • mdhawthorne
    replied
    Love to see this stuff

    I'm new to welding and this is exactly the kind of stuff I like to see. I've had no formal training so seeing what the big guns do gives me a point to aim for. Thanks Guys

    Leave a comment:


  • Tsandman
    replied
    Well here goes. Some of the work I do at my job.

    Leave a comment:


  • Conrad_Turbo
    replied
    Originally posted by youweldititestit View Post
    stainless does dissipate heat well so easy to over heat.
    It's actually the opposite. SS does not dissipate heat very well (in comparison to mild steel, aluminum etc...). It's easy to overheat because the heat stays in such a small area and doesn't dissipate from the weld zone.

    Leave a comment:


  • youweldititestit
    replied
    welding stainless

    Originally posted by SignWave View Post
    We havent had any beads around here in a while. I'd love to see some decent Stainless welds- seeing as how thats where my troubles have been lately. Anyone care to share?

    Ive pasted 4 pics. Four different levels of competance. 4 pics, 4 minutes of experience....
    Remember if weld is black or dark gray in color like oxidized then there is a few things to keep in mind. One /amps used want you want use as little as possible ,stainless does dissipate heat well so easy to over heat. Stainless has a lower melting point then that of steel. Gas flow 17 to 20cfh. Electrode to work distance is also important with stainless the closer the better 1/16 of and inch, to long increases arc volts. Then you want the biggest sheilding cup you can like a 10. That gives you better gas coverage so atmostphere doesnt hit the bead when it is hot. that is the most common that causes the color of the bead.

    good luck
    Last edited by youweldititestit; 12-14-2008, 02:46 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • doug taylor
    replied
    Paul,
    As a senior member and having a few years in the trade you should be aware of the dangers of having a o2 tank inside the shop whitout being purged. Welding should never be done while product is still in the tank, you are setting a bad example for all the young guns out there, we should be teaching them how to be safe in the workplace.

    Doug.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rawr
    replied
    I can only dream to end up as you guys!
    I almost lost an internal organ looking at some of these beads.. lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Trout
    replied
    try using a gas lense to keep the argon purge dispersed,,, good argon coverage and good heat ranges give you the pretty colors. Cook it and youll see black every time.

    Leave a comment:


  • TIG332
    replied
    Beads

    Originally posted by SignWave View Post
    We havent had any beads around here in a while. I'd love to see some decent Stainless welds- seeing as how thats where my troubles have been lately. Anyone care to share?

    Ive pasted 4 pics. Four different levels of competance. 4 pics, 4 minutes of experience....
    I looked at your welds, they are oxidixed, this happens from welding too hot or not properly shielding the material or a combination of both.Stainless steel needs to be shielded from the backside to prevent this from happening,when stainless steel oxidizes it refuses to flow.The welders natural tendency is to increase heat which makes the problem worse.There are other variables that can contribute to dirty welds, such as tungsten size,rod feeding techniques,dirty material, dirty tungsten, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdustu
    replied
    Originally posted by Coalsmoke View Post
    Naw, depends on the machine, the application of the piece, and other factors, like if you have a 300*F preheat on it. On the trailblazer 302 it had a hot and watery arc, and I was finding that I was often in the 95-105A range when burning 1/8 7018. I figure a person shouldn't be too concerned with the numbers, just set it up so its working right for you, your job and your particular machine.
    x2 for sure

    Leave a comment:


  • Coalsmoke
    replied
    Originally posted by turbo38t View Post
    Seems a bit cold for 1/8 7018 especially if you run a tight bead. I run 7018 anywheres between 115 and 135 depending on the situation. Dave
    Naw, depends on the machine, the application of the piece, and other factors, like if you have a 300*F preheat on it. On the trailblazer 302 it had a hot and watery arc, and I was finding that I was often in the 95-105A range when burning 1/8 7018. I figure a person shouldn't be too concerned with the numbers, just set it up so its working right for you, your job and your particular machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Coalsmoke
    replied
    Thanks Josh, you've got some seriously crazy stuff in your gallery. I like that 429 stang!

    Leave a comment:


  • jdustu
    replied
    Coalsmoke, nice work man!

    I look foward to seeing your full site in the future

    -Josh

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Seems a bit cold for 1/8 7018 especially if you run a tight bead. I run 7018 anywheres between 115 and 135 depending on the situation. Dave
    Originally posted by pcwelder View Post
    Thanks coalsmoke, I use 6010 for the root only because I seem to be able to control it better in out of position stuff. Then once there is some thermal mass i can lay in the 223 (7018) with more confidence. I run 1/8" 223 @ 103 Amps for all my flat and horizontal work, the slag is almost self lifting when the heat is in that 'sweet spot'.

    Thanks again will be posting more pics when available.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X