New Truck Rack design

[dabeldesign]

I just finished this new rack design for late model Chevy's and eventually other trucks. I kept the design simple and somewhat lightweight so that it can ship UPS. (I'm going to try and start selling these but that's not why i'm posting it here)
The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling.
Paint is done by the advice of Dabar; rustoleum rusty metal primer and gloss black thinned 20% or so and applied with an HVLP spraygun. Worked great, thanks Dabar!

If there's any obvious design flaws, point them out! (no screen is not one of them..that's intentional)

[TimS]

This is probably overly fussy, but I'd rather see the side posts carried higher, so the crossbar can weld directly to them. This keeps fewer parts and welds involved in the critical structure. The side post extension, which would then be non-structural, could be welded on later. You've used a gusset, so it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but since you asked...

Tim

[dabeldesign]

This is probably overly fussy, but I'd rather see the side posts carried higher, so the crossbar can weld directly to them. This keeps fewer parts and welds involved in the critical structure. The side post extension, which would then be non-structural, could be welded on later. You've used a gusset, so it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but since you asked...

Tim

Noted...Anyone else?

[MMW]

A few more tie down loops. I use chain links on the ones I make. Looks nice.

[dabeldesign]

Chain links are not a bad idea. I thought about using D-rings but that is a little over the top. I've only ever used hooks like this. I didn't put much thought into the height and placement of the hooks though but that seems to work.

[dabar39]

Are you using anything for a buffer in between the rack and the bed rail? I cut out pieces of rubber matting and sandwich in between to keep rubbing the paint off of the bed rail. Glad you liked the idea of Rust-O-Leum over some of the higher priced options, but if you plan on doing them in a production type of setting you may want to consider getting into powder coating, It's not as expensive as you might think. Dave

[Craig in Denver]

It's a nice simple design and would last me forever.

Edit: Oops, reread your post. Opinion withdrawn.

[DSW]

For me the top extensions are too short. Looks to be only 3-4" max. I actually put lumber on my racks and that's only 2-3 2x's stacked. Nit picking I know.

Looks very nice BTW. Does it fit in an acceptable size box for UPS or FedEx shipping? I forget the max sizes they accept. You may be able to make the design a breakdown design if the horizontal bar could slide down over the vertical supports and get secured with a bolt. Just a thought for decreasing shipping costs and box costs. I would also think about powercoating the frame as suggested above.

[dabeldesign]

Are you using anything for a buffer in between the rack and the bed rail? I cut out pieces of rubber matting and sandwich in between to keep rubbing the paint off of the bed rail. Glad you liked the idea of Rust-O-Leum over some of the higher priced options, but if you plan on doing them in a production type of setting you may want to consider getting into powder coating, It's not as expensive as you might think. Dave

thanks for the advice. I don't think I'll really be going into any production. This is just a design that can be manufactured quickly and somewhat cost-effectively. I've sold some simmilar models to people who asked me to build them but I'm such a tiny shop there is no way for me to do anything on a big scale.
Oh and about the "buffer" I still need to pick up some rubber matting. Any good sources for something like that besides McMaster-Carr or the obvious Home Depot?

[dabeldesign]

It's a nice simple design and would last me forever.

Edit: Oops, reread your post. Opinion withdrawn.

Which part? I'm open to critique

[dabeldesign]

For me the top extensions are too short. Looks to be only 3-4" max. I actually put lumber on my racks and that's only 2-3 2x's stacked. Nit picking I know.

Looks very nice BTW. Does it fit in an acceptable size box for UPS or FedEx shipping? I forget the max sizes they accept. You may be able to make the design a breakdown design if the horizontal bar could slide down over the vertical supports and get secured with a bolt. Just a thought for decreasing shipping costs and box costs. I would also think about powercoating the frame as suggested above.

The height of the top is a bit of a compromise between looks and functionality. It still works good in my opinion but for just a work truck for a contractor, a little taller would probably be better.
As far as shipping goes, it just fall under the 130" max (length+girth) for UPS. I wouldn't buy it If I lived across the country though; the shipping is not cheap. A short hop across states might be worth it if this is just what the customer is looking for.


EDIT: I guess I should have done multi-quotes...

[tasslehawf]

The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.

Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.

Have you noticed any whistling?

My rack (I didn't make it):

[Craig in Denver]

"The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."

I looked at the pics and missed this part.

So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked."

So my critique was based on my inattention.

[dabeldesign]

The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.

Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.

Have you noticed any whistling?

My rack (I didn't make it):

with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.

Oh and no whistling

[dabeldesign]

"The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."

I looked at the pics and missed this part.

So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked."

So my critique was based on my inattention.

That was and still is a bit of a concern. I left enough room on the mounting brackets to drill a hole and mount through the bedrail at another point but this way was surprisingly strong.
I agree with you completely though that some idiot would overload this thing and expect me to fix it
Thanks for the advice Craig