Chop Saw Stand & Conveyor - Home Project

[DSW]

Very nice work. Thanks for the construction photos! At first I couldn't understand how the roller stands would work, but it made sense onece I saw the build photos.

What size sq tubes did you use for the side extensions? I love that they all nest together! I need to build a chop saw table for my miter saw for work and that looks like a better idea for long lengths of molding than any I have seen so far. Any idea what you've got in it in materials?

[J hall]

Very nice.

[Jetmekdc-10]

Looks good. Should be real handy.

[tasslehawf]

Nice project. I haven't done anything like this because I already have a "good enough" solutiion - I adapted my dry saw to a miter saw stand and made it pivot on a piece of plywood.

My next saw is going to be a KAMA mitering horiz. bandsaw and it has a cabinet so I'll need a roller-bench solution instead.

[Bert]

Chad, great job, and GREAT pics!!! But: (lol), can you describe how you made the table turn? I see a bolt in the middle of it, washer in-between to swivel??? and how do you lock it down when you have the angle you want?
thanks

[chadjcyr]

I have a question on the compact bender that you mentioned. I am looking for the specifications on what type of material in can handle. I have heard of these just do not know where to look for one at. Also is it a tool that if you broke it today would you order anoter tomorrow? Thanks for the answers in advance.

Hi, I got the compact bender through ebay and is probably identical to the ones found on Harbor Freight. The specs are as follows:

Mild Steel Capacity: 5/16" x 1 1/4", 1/4" x 2"
Right Angle Bending Capacity: 3/16" x 1 1/14", 1/4" x 1 1/4"
Bending Angle: 0-200 degrees
Center Pin Capacity: 1/4" thich ( use 1" die for greater)
Solid Rod Capacity: 1/2"
Dies Sizes: 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2", 1 3/4", 2", 2 1/2", 3"

If I broke it, I would definitely get another one since it is very handy at making common bends and is much better than hammering flatbar in a bench vise.

Thanks for asking...

- Chad

[chadjcyr]

I was not sure I wanted to make one specifically for my abrasive saw since I'd like a cold saw...

Maybe flat top is a good idea, i can swap out my chop saw for lumber too!

Yeah, I love my Milwaukee Cold Cut saw - after using my dad's Makita to build my welding table, I had to have one! I made my stand with a flat top so I could use it for other saws and other purposes. Although my rollers are tailored to the thick base height of my Milwaukee, I could probably shim other saws to be level with the rollers.

Thanks,
Chad

[chadjcyr]

What size sq tubes did you use for the side extensions? I love that they all nest together!

The outtermost short tubes fixed to the stand are 2"x2" 16ga and the sizes work their way in 1/4" at a time until 1"x1" 11ga so the sizes are all as follows for each telescoping side:
2" x 2" x 16" 16ga
1-3/4" x 1-3/4" x 4' 16ga
1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 4' 16ga
1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 4' 16ga
1" x 1" x 4' 11ga

Any idea what you've got in it in materials?

I think it ran me just over $200 in steel + the casters.

Thanks,
Chad

[chadjcyr]

Chad, great job, and GREAT pics!!! But: (lol), can you describe how you made the table turn? I see a bolt in the middle of it, washer in-between to swivel??? and how do you lock it down when you have the angle you want?
thanks

The table top is made of a 3/8" plate resting on two strips of 1/4" flatbar. The plate pivots on a strategically placed bolt so that the steel stock to be cut does not have to moved forward or back to meet the fence when turning the saw to cut angles. I had made plans to put a lock bolt to hold the top in place but after I built it - I found that the weight of the plate + the saw's 50lbs was more than sufficient to keep it from pivoting on its own. There is no need to secure the saw at angle since the table merely swivels the saw so you can clamp your piece to be cut in the saw's fence. The force required to make it pivot is sufficient enough for me to plan and put a grab handle on the front of the plate to more easily turn it. I'm happy with the way it worked out.

I had initially tried to use a 12" 1000lb capacity lazy susan, but found it just moved too easily and the turntable induced a small 1/32" of wobble front to back due to the offset of the pivot center no matter how I shimmed it.

Thanks for asking

- Chad

[JHCHOPPERS]

Nice work and a great idea...

[Bert]

Chad, pic #21 is where I see the bolt through the 3/8" table. But what is it connected to underneath the top 3/8" plate? I saw the 1/4" flat bar, but that was at the 2 ends of the table...thanks,
bert

[chadjcyr]

Chad, pic #21 is where I see the bolt through the 3/8" table. But what is it connected to underneath the top 3/8" plate? I saw the 1/4" flat bar, but that was at the 2 ends of the table...thanks,
bert

Hi Bert,

The bolt turns into a nut that is welded to the top and center of the two 2" square tubes (along the seam where they meet side-by-side.) I have used a jam nut underneath to be certain it does not turn with the table and loosen.

I hope that makes sense and helps.

Thanks,
Chad

[Bert]

yeah, THANKS CHAD!!!!!!!

[Broccoli1]

That dart board is way too low

[chadjcyr]

That dart board is way too low

LOL... not for my 8 yr old brother! :P