Dynasty 200 DX problem

[KB Fabrications]

Something no one has mentioned yet is post-flow. If you have inadequate post-flow and/or you pull your torch away from the weldment too soon you will have tungsten frosting. It is something that is more prevalent with inverters in general but is not limited to them and will cause the exact problem that the initial poster experienced.

One good practice to get into is to lightly scratch the tungsten to your work before you strike an arc. Your start should be immediate when you do that.

If you are using pure or zirconiated with a Dynasty you are not realizing the full potential of your machine. Inverters are designed to run with a pointed tungsten and both pure and zirc will want to ball almost immediately. If you are going to use them, you might as well set your machine to 60 hz and run it like a regular transformer based unit.

IME, lanthanated and ceriated work best on my 300DX and 350DX. Thoriated also works well but I have gotten away from that because of health reasons and the performance isn't necessarily better.

[Loadsmasher]

Something no one has mentioned yet is post-flow. If you have inadequate post-flow and/or you pull your torch away from the weldment too soon you will have tungsten frosting.

I have been doing that. I'm new to TIG and so I'll have to watch some of these tips and concentrate on not creating bad habits.

Thanks,

JD

[TS-Off-Road]

One good practice to get into is to lightly scratch the tungsten to your work before you strike an arc. Your start should be immediate when you do that.

X2

That method has worked very well with my 200DX

[phila.renewal]

One good practice to get into is to lightly scratch the tungsten to your work before you strike an arc. Your start should be immediate when you do that.

I've never tried that. What does it do (I mean what effect does it have that makes it start better)?

[KB Fabrications]

I've never tried that. What does it do (I mean what effect does it have that makes it start better)?

It removes the frost from the tip of the tungsten and allows for a positive start. Since the frosting is the likely culprit of the poor start, it makes sense that removing a bit of it on the tip would help.

[phila.renewal]

It removes the frost from the tip of the tungsten and allows for a positive start. Since the frosting is the likely culprit of the poor start, it makes sense that removing a bit of it on the tip would help.

Ah, got you. So do it on the work but not on the area about to be welded.

Thanks.

[Bert]

When mine doesn't start, I mess with the ground to get a good connection to the part.
I made my ground on my new MM251 with a hose clamp and a vice grip. Learned that from an old timer, and works great! I don't like the ones from the store. Gonna do that to my 200 tomorrow...

[julman99]

Orange woud be 2% Ceriated and that should be the easist to start. For .080 aluminum I would set the max amps to no more than 100, most likely 90 to start, Balance on 70 and freq on 120. I would switch to 1/16" (3/32" should work also) tungsten and taper it to 30 degrees with a .010 flat on the tip. Be very sure you have a good ground. When I first got my Dynasty it would sometimes do the same thing, I removed the cover and ran a very clean .009 feeler thru the points and have had no trouble since. Just stuff to try, let us know if you work it out.

Where are the points located inside the cover? I removed it but didnt find the points

Thank you very much