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Project Specific Thread: Welding tables

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  • SkidSteerSteve
    started a topic Project Specific Thread: Welding tables

    Project Specific Thread: Welding tables

    Just had an idea to start a project specific thread. On this just post ideas and pictures for various welding tables that you have built or use regularly. This way we can start compiling information for easier research instead of looking for a dozen different threads. Not to sound rude, but if your table is simply a slab of plate with four legs, you might abstain from posting. On the other hand, if you have an idea that you think the rest of us would benefit from, by all means post away, especially with pictures. SSS

  • fabricator
    replied
    here is mine i built.top has 3/8 x 4 x 8 plate,frame is 2-1/2 x 3-1/2 square tubing.
    Attached Files

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  • tasslehawf
    replied
    I wanted to add that one possible advantage of my melamine top tables is that they are extremely portable. I can lift one table myself. I frequently flip the tables on their side and slide them into the back of my pickup. No forklift needed.

    I'm definitely getting some great ideas from reading this thread. I'm about to make a 4' square table for home use and like the idea of incorporating ibeams and a vice attachment using trailer hitch stock.

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  • tasslehawf
    replied
    I posted this in welding table accessory thread:

    I wanted to post some pics of some of the welding/work tables I've made (I've made 7). My original table was 4'x6' with a 1/4" welded to the top. I quickly discovered that that warps the top. The tables I'm using these days are are 2x2x.125 square tubing monsters that are designed to hold 1000+ lbs of concrete countertops. Since they have melamine tops on them, I've discovered the best way to weld on them is use 4 large rect. tubing pieces to clamp to and keep the piece off the wood top and also keep the piece level. Anyway here's some pics.







    The way I made these tables was to make the top and bottom a mitered square. then I welded 3 cross-pieces in the top and one in the bottom and welded the top and bottom together with 6 verticle pieces (8 on the 10' tables).

    As a self-taught welder I've developed a technique that may or may not be correct, but it works for me. I tack-weld everything into place first (two welds at each contact point for sq. tubing). I have a set of cast aluminum 90" braces that I got for $25 each. I clamp onto these braces and tack-weld. I try to do all 4 corners clamped at once if possible. Once THE ENTIRE pieces has been tack welded together I go back and weld strategically to create the greatest strength but not welding enough welds to make it warp. I have never had a weld break on these tables and we use them pretty roughly. I'll weld symmetrically to cut down on warping. Sometimes I'll weld to make it warp in a certain direction.

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  • Rob G
    replied
    I was bending the 1" thick top on my table at work when I went to clamp down this 12" "I"-beam base. You can`t see it, but there are two pieces of 3" x 3/8"wall square tubing running the length of the table under the top.



    Needless to say, I told the boss that that was not going to work out, and that I needed a better table. He told me to make up a list of what I needed so he could order it. This is what I got a week later:

    2" thick blanchard ground top 4' x 10'
    10" heavy channel stiffeners
    2 1/2" x 1/4" square tube legs
    1" leveling bolts on all 8 legs



    It`s funny watching our crappy little forklift trying to pick it up.

    Leave a comment:


  • shade tree welder
    replied
    weldng table

    I forgot to mention that the tubes are like 8" long , I welded them to the bottom brace that goes around the legs

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  • shade tree welder
    replied
    Welding table ideas

    i built my welding table a few years back, i put caster wheels on mine so i can roll it around where ever i need to as i work or put it in the corner out of the way when not in use.I also use it like a forklift with heavy projects on top of it and roll it where i need it instead of cracking the ole back toting heavy stuff around. I do not have a forklift, have two jib cranes set up and this table works great, caster wheels are cheap at Northern Tool , I went with 4" steel wheels 2000# capacity, fix them up where they can be raised or lowered by using square tubing ,2"x .250 and 2.5" x 3/16 wall so the 2" will slide inside the other, welded a 1" nut on top of the 2.5" with a hole in the top and cap the 2" tube then put a 1" bolt in the nut and you can raise or lower all 4 wheels,weld the casters to the bottom of the 2" tube, and then all you need is a crescent wrench to turn the bolts and bingo! Everyone that comes by my shop are impressed with the setup

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  • Pitalplace
    replied
    Here is a different idea. I like the lower height working on old farm equipment. The stand was on the place and the grating I bought at a farm sale. About $25 invested.
    Attached Files

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  • oilburner
    replied
    What is an ideal height?
    This question from "bad back" Jack.

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  • Bmxin^Bjorn
    replied
    Originally posted by the hat View Post
    Here's one I built 12 yrs ago out of my scrap pile.It's 13' long and 41''wide ,the beams are 24' 85# and the cross pieces are 18'' 55#.It sets on 8'' steel casters and I have 4 - 1 1/4"jack screws to level or stabilize it.If I need a steel table I just set a piece of plate on it.I built it as a base for building truck bodies and salt spreaders at work and worked out so well the boss wouldn't let me bring it home until I built another one for the shop.It also works good for straightening bent snow plows . Bill
    that table is extreamly portable .. you could almost take it to the job site..... if you had a Peterbuilt

    Leave a comment:


  • HMW
    replied
    Now thats some big I-beams. Don't think we could tear that up. I bet it doesn't move when your bending something. Heavy is good in a workbench/table

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  • thehat
    replied
    Here's one I built 12 yrs ago out of my scrap pile.It's 13' long and 41''wide ,the beams are 24' 85# and the cross pieces are 18'' 55#.It sets on 8'' steel casters and I have 4 - 1 1/4"jack screws to level or stabilize it.If I need a steel table I just set a piece of plate on it.I built it as a base for building truck bodies and salt spreaders at work and worked out so well the boss wouldn't let me bring it home until I built another one for the shop.It also works good for straightening bent snow plows . Bill
    Attached Files

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  • HMW
    replied
    Here is some pics of some benchs we built for the shop. Always like to see what everybody has bulit, gives me ideas sometimes. Notice on the work bench there is a tongue extension, Its for a 20,000 lb gvw trailer, the lunnette eyes wear and have to be replaced. Post more pics of tool holders or benchs or shops, theres got to be lots of ideas out there
    Attached Files

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  • HMW
    replied
    I like the metal rack on the last pictures

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  • Justin00Stang
    replied
    I built mine middle of last year, I had a thread about it but never posted pics when done.

    1/2" top, 3x3x1/8" box tube legs and frame to support the top, two wire shelves underneath, on 5" casters. I have four 2" hitch receives around the table for sticking my vise in, cheap bender, and any other tools I come up with. Since its on wheels the table will sometimes want to move, I have two dual locking casters but they aren't always much help. The 3x3 frame under the table is set back 6" so you have room to clamp around the edges. The inner section of the table is very very flat, the edges that hang over the frame are not as flat. If I did it again I would not use such heavy material, 2.5" box would probably have been fine for the top frame, and 2" for the legs. I built the table upside down on the floor and used clamps and people to pull the top flat when welding the 3x3 to it.

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