I have been TIG welding for almost a week now and my beads are looking pretty good (I will get pictures on soon). I was told by one of the people in charge that I am dipping to much what would be an easy way to remember when to dip? I was taught that if I want to fill in a bevel MIG welding to weave back and forth while saying to myself 1 Mississippi 2... and so on and so forth is there any way to remember when to dip like that?
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Originally posted by youngwelder_154 View PostI have been TIG welding for almost a week now and my beads are looking pretty good (I will get pictures on soon). I was told by one of the people in charge that I am dipping to much what would be an easy way to remember when to dip? I was taught that if I want to fill in a bevel MIG welding to weave back and forth while saying to myself 1 Mississippi 2... and so on and so forth is there any way to remember when to dip like that?
-Aaron"Better Metalworking Through Research"
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Filler rod and puddle
Its like this when you are applying the filler rod to the puddle u must watch and make sure that the puddle is even with the rest of the weld on your work peice.It takes a lot of concentration and u must try to find a sturdy postion to keep yourself balanced.
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Originally posted by prebiltkid View PostIts like this when you are applying the filler rod to the puddle u must watch and make sure that the puddle is even with the rest of the weld on your work peice.It takes a lot of concentration and u must try to find a sturdy postion to keep yourself balanced.
Thats the advatage of Tig/OA welding, you can vary the filler metal depending on where you are in the joint. Keep your eyes on the puddle, and vary the heat input , and filler metal, to keep an even bead size as you progress around whatever you are welding. Most of all you just need some hours in the "seat" to practice. Flat welds are the easiest, when you feel confident, try doing a tubing cluster. Dont get frustrated as everyone here knows, it all comes down to practice.
-Aaron"Better Metalworking Through Research"
Miller Dynasty 300DX
Miller Dynasty 200DX
Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
Miller Millermatic Passport
Miller Spot Welder
Motor-Guard stud welder
Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)
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Thank you prebiltkid you could have told me on the phone last night lol or when I asked you at schoolbut at least your making sense now I think i understand that you mean. I'm thinking the best way for that is when the puddle starts to get a bit smaller you would put it in?
Thanks for reading I hope my post helped
Ryan
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You have to watch the toes of the weld puddle carefully. If they are under cutting, then typically there isn't enough filler being added, or too much heat / slow travel speed. Speaking of filler only, when the puddle is small and the deposited bead large, you are depositing too much filler at once. You have to remember or learn this; filler metal absorbs heat. The more filler you add, the cooler the puddle gets. too much heat in the puddle with not enough filler = undercut / burn through. Not enough heat in the puddle when you add filler results in a 'ropey' looking weld, high, narrow, toes don't seem fused properly... The combination of puddle heat input and filler metal input are directly related. When using the lay rod technique, if the filler burns off unevenly before the puddle reaches the filler rod then you don't have engough fiiler going into the joint.
Filler cools the puddle, so adequate heat in the puddle is nescessary before adding filler.Jonny
Dynasty 300DX
Esab PCM 1000
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Remember don't move an inch until you get your puddle established! I know alot of people who just strike an arc and go. There weld starts are always cold and inconsistant. What you do at the begining determins everthing. If you start to hot and big then you will acheive to large a weld, and vice versa. Another thing, be more conserned about you'r travel motion. It's better to stop adding rod than to stop moving. If you stop moving to add rod then you will tend to get to much heat input.
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