AL w/ Syncrowave 200

[Scott V]

Thanks Scott for the clarification, the guy who set it up was good at using it but not explaning the operation. So the setting is a small percent devation from a 50/50 wave form? I was thinking it was from D/C- through D/C+. Do you know if it is a sine, modifed sine or square wave? I tried it in stick mode and the arc sounds quite different than the normal buzz box welder. Matt

It's not a true Square way like a inverter ( not really sure if inverters are a perfect Sq waves either?) Probably real close. I am not a EE to really know those things. I just Know the little Syncro has a nice arc starts and is really
is a pleasant machine to use.


You are right on the 50/50 deal. It can only move to something like 60 %

I get confused because I have a Thermal- arc and it would say 40%(same as your 60%) that way.

A dynasty will say 90% and the Thermal would be at 10% at the same wave balance as each other.

I think the bigger syncros can swing farther over?? I have not used one but my
Esab 252 would go over far enough to get black specks because too much cleaning from your settings.

[Nikonman]

Thanks Scott for the clarification, the guy who set it up was good at using it but not explaning the operation. So the setting is a small percent devation from a 50/50 wave form? I was thinking it was from D/C- through D/C+. Do you know if it is a sine, modifed sine or square wave? I tried it in stick mode and the arc sounds quite different than the normal buzz box welder. Matt

[Scott V]

et balance down to .4 to .6 to start, I have gone to .2 but this is almost D/C so make sure the

The lowest the Syncro 200 can go is about 60% electrode - that is quite a ways from Straight DC. A Dynasty 200 can get to within 99% of being straight DC. Just so you know.

The Syncro does have a nice little AC tig arc to it.

[Bert]

Nikonman,
thanks for all the tips, especially on how to clean off the impurities from dirty aluminum!!!!

[Nikonman]

New Syncrowave 200

I have just bought the same unit for my shop, It does assume you are welding AL and sets it's self but you may need to tweek the numbers.

The big thing is to have it perfectly clean.

Start with corse sandpaper 80/100 grit, at low speed so you do not smear AL over the contaminates.
Then brush with a stainless steel brush or wire wheel at low speed.Never use the brushes for any other use if you need then for AL again.
Then wipe down with as pure alcohol as you can get.

Set main selector to A/C
Set balance down to .4 to .6 to start, I have gone to .2 but this is almost D/C so make sure the tip and torch can take the heat.
Set the pulse around 1.5
Make sure the tip is sharp and the grind marks are along the long axis of the rod.
Keep the arc as short as possible.
Start the arc at full peddal and make small circles to break up the oxides.
Jab the filler rod into the puddle so as to float off the heavy oxides.
You may have to make many passes to bring out the impurities and grind them off the top.

I have been rebuilding boat docks for the towns boat launch and it has been
a total nightmear to deal with the contamination in the pores of the metal.

The above procedure has worked for me so I hope it will for you as well

Good luck, Matt.

I have a Syncrowave 200 for welding steel, and I love it. I have had limited success welding aluminium. When I use the 200 for AL, my welds are horrible. I can't seem to get a stable arc and there is a ton of soot around the weld. I'm using pure tungsten, Argon & AC.

Every other Miller TIG I have used has a High Frequency Start/Continous setting. Am I missing something here or do I just not know where the switch is? Does the 200 know to be on continous when switched to AC? The owners manual I got with the machine has been no help. Maybe I just need more practice!