Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Why am I getting cracks?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Why am I getting cracks?

    Hey guys,
    I'm sitting here practicing today by making a stand for my drill press to sit on, and I keep getting a crack down the center of a couple of my welds. It only is happening on butt welds, and I am using 5356 filler on 6061 aluminum. The tube is 1/8" wall, 1" od on the small one and 1 1/2" od on the larger one. The syncrowave is at 140 amps, 6 seconds of postflow, 3/32 tungsten, and argon flow at 20. Thats all the information I know of to give, so could someone please tell me how to get rid of these cracks! Thanks,

    Jared

    Here's a couple pictures of the cracks I am talking about:
    http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...l/S5000173.jpg
    http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...l/S5000175.jpg

  • #2
    hey jared,

    try closing up your bead spacing. aluminium shrinks a lot upon solidifying- if there isn't enough weld deposit to resist these forces, cracking will occur.

    it doesn't look like there is much penetration in the cracked welds, try to be more patient when welding. wait until both pieces melt together before adding filler to the puddle and moving forward. overlap each filler deposit by at least 50%

    5356 will give a stronger/more fatigue resistant joint on 6061(in the as welded condition) but it is more prone to cracking than 4043.

    looking good though

    Comment


    • #3
      whats your flow rate, it looks like a little black on the outer edge, also the beads look shalow, try adding more filler and closer beads. the beads look indented in the 2nd pic. more filler is defenetly needed and closer togather would be where i started looking to fix it.
      thanks for the help
      ......or..........
      hope i helped
      sigpic
      feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
      summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
      JAMES

      Comment


      • #4
        looks like i over laped you Pete. you must have posted just as i started LOL
        thanks for the help
        ......or..........
        hope i helped
        sigpic
        feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
        summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
        JAMES

        Comment


        • #5
          they do look a little cold, and almost like he is doing spot welds letting it crater and moving too far forward befor remelting, it should be a continuose flow never realy getting fully solid but your next bead should fill the crater of the firs if there is one and it should be much smaller.
          the flow looks ok though, it just looked a little black in the first pic but in the 2nd one its nice and clean.
          thanks for the help
          ......or..........
          hope i helped
          sigpic
          feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
          summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
          JAMES

          Comment


          • #6
            I would concur with Pete on the bead spacing. They are too far apart and could deinately be contributing to your problems. I would also switch to 4043 filler as it is easier to weld than 5356. Just curious about one more thing. On the butt joint in your pic, did you bevel the joint on both pieces or is your weld bead just laying on top of the joint?
            Dynasty 350DX
            Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
            MM 350P
            MM Passport Plus
            Spectrum 375 Extreme
            08' Trailblazer 302

            Comment


            • #7
              I think you need to be welding the other direction starting from the tightest apex and moving outward this will reduce the stress on the apex and reduce distortion in the weld. And I also suggest beveling and 4043 rod.
              Pliers
              Screwdriver
              Hammer

              Comment


              • #8
                guys he's using 1/8" tube, i don't think beveling is needed LOL. tighten up your spacing i think that's your problem, as stated earlier 4043 will help too.
                The one that dies with the most tools wins

                If it's worth having, it's worth working for

                Comment


                • #9
                  tigman250
                  do you think more filler is needed or will closer spacing cover that as well ? it seems like its realy flat almost concaved to me, could just be the pic i guess but i think he needs to push in some more filler to build it up a bit.
                  jwill211
                  also at the end if you back off slowly on the power and add a little more filler at the end just befor it cools,you can get rid of the dimple in the end.
                  thanks for the help
                  ......or..........
                  hope i helped
                  sigpic
                  feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                  summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                  JAMES

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Buzz Job View Post
                    I think you need to be welding the other direction starting from the tightest apex and moving outward this will reduce the stress on the apex and reduce distortion in the weld. And I also suggest beveling and 4043 rod.
                    I think your right and im sure you meant a small bevel.
                    The crack occured upon cooling.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK guys, thanks for the input so quickly. I didn't bevel the edges on the tubing any more than just knock the sharp edges off that the saw left. Here's a picture of another bead that I still have wide spacing in, but on this one I put more heat into it and also instead of just dabbing filler into it like the other pictures I fed it in, about double or better than how much filler I was using.

                      http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...l/S5000177.jpg.

                      Trying to change my bead spacing is easier said than done, I am into the same rythm every time with the heat and filler, and changing one or the other seems to throw the whole thing off, but I'll keep working on it until I get used to it. Thanks again,

                      Jared

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        that looks better if its too thin its going to be more likely to crack. its just one of those things you just have to put the time in to get it right. i still got a long way to go but i'm working on it and i'm lucky enough to have O/A in my past to help.
                        thanks for the help
                        ......or..........
                        hope i helped
                        sigpic
                        feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                        summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                        JAMES

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          hello everyone, how does JWILL211 get those perfectly spaced beads ?
                          i know they might not be the best type weld, structurally, but i am curious how you get it to look like that ?
                          is it a process of hitting the foot pedal, dipping in the filler, then backing off the pedal, moving the torch, then back on the pedal, etc ?
                          just curious how one would get the perfectly spaced beads like that.
                          thanks.....
                          Syncrowave® 200
                          Lincoln AC/DC 225/125
                          Lincoln Weld Pak 100 wire feed

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            2 cents....

                            Just a quick observation leading to a guess.....looking at the first pic, I would guess that the crack started at the crater. At the end of a weld, especially in aluminum, the crater needs to be filled at the end of a weld. This is where 95% of the cracks in an aluminum weld will start, especially on 6061 material. when you come to the end of your weld, reduce the heat a bit and dab a bit more filler at the end, bringing the last "dime" proud of the rest of the weld.
                            should reduce the cracking potential.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by FABMAN View Post
                              hello everyone, how does JWILL211 get those perfectly spaced beads ?
                              i know they might not be the best type weld, structurally, but i am curious how you get it to look like that ?
                              is it a process of hitting the foot pedal, dipping in the filler, then backing off the pedal, moving the torch, then back on the pedal, etc ?
                              just curious how one would get the perfectly spaced beads like that.
                              thanks.....
                              Hi Fabman,
                              Once you have a puddle astablished, (base material will appear shinny). This is when you start adding filler. The way I get the rythem going is heat with the tungsten, cool with the filler, (touch filler at the leading edge of the puddle). Move tungsten forward approximatily 3/16". Repeat above. Heat, dab, move forward. Keep the tungsten in the middle of the joint.
                              Heat with the tungsten, cool with the filler, move ahead.
                              Good luck,
                              Gary

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X