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  • mowjunk
    replied
    Gotcha Wrench....I didn't think you were really interested in anything but getting your machine right! Have a Merry Christmas...

    Mow

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  • wrench3047
    replied
    My initial tests where just beads on a piece of flat, then the 3/4" pieces was a butt weld just to see what DIG could do. Yeah initially I started the thread cause I didn't know enough about the dynasty and DIG to weld with it in stick mode. I think I have a decent understanding now. Thanks all.

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  • mowjunk
    replied
    Was it a fillet weld? I don't think he said, but I think he was just wanting to make sure his machine was working properly.......

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  • weldone
    replied
    Lets try it again
    Pg 147 chptr7 Destructive testing
    Book:Certification Manual for weld inspectors (forth Edition) A.W.S pub
    Fillet weld break test,this is a soundness test and used primarily in the qualification of welders. This is the only test required for the qualification of tackers in accordance with AWS D1.1,Structural Wlding Code-Steel.
    To preform this test a welder places a fillet weld on one side of a T-Joint.Once complete,the specimen is placed in a press and bent to produce a FRACTURE AT THE WELD OR NEAR THE WELD.
    AGAIN,THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THIS TEST IS NOT how much load is required for failure,rather the condition of the fracture internally.
    With this test,the inspector is checking the fractured weld to ENSURE THAT THE WELD HAS EVIDENCE OF FUSION TO THE ROOT AND THAT THERE ARE NO AREAS OF INCOMPLETE FUSION TO THE BASE METAL.

    So kbf if you gathered that the actual weld should be WEAKER than the base metal I'm not surprised rock on dude.

    Iramberson: I SPOKE ON testing a fillet weld. NOT what causes it to fail because many of things can cause a weld to fail. I spoke on how to test it for adequate pen...and what the results should be if pen has been achieved.
    And for the record. ANY KIND OF WELD TEST THAT IS DONE IS DONE TO TEST THE WELD ITSELF (N.D.T-D.T) NOT THE BASE METAL.
    Like I'VE said before its about fusion and pentration when it comes to welding and knowing the difference between the two. And I guess that comes with experience.
    keep that fresh

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  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally Posted by weldone
    What I mean is that if one is trying to test a t-joint for adequate pen... when you put the fillet side in the vise and wack the oppsitite side of the joint with a sledge intill the weld breaks if it is properly fused it breaks straight down the middle of the weld. If not properly fused it will break or the lack of fusion will be evidient at the toe(s) of the fillet.

    Hope that helps.
    Dave
    Originally posted by lramberson View Post
    This statement is incorrect. Properly fused material, the failure should occure in the material being welded and never in the weld itself.
    You are correct the most common point of failure is at the base where joined and the weld is wetted in.
    Just keepin' it fresh.

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  • lramberson
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by weldone View Post
    What I mean is that if one is trying to test a t-joint for adequate pen... when you put the fillet side in the vise and wack the oppsitite side of the joint with a sledge intill the weld breaks if it is properly fused it breaks straight down the middle of the weld. If not properly fused it will break or the lack of fusion will be evidient at the toe(s) of the fillet.

    Hope that helps.
    Dave
    This statement is incorrect. Properly fused material, the failure should occure in the material being welded and never in the weld itself.
    You are correct the most common point of failure is at the base where joined and the weld is wetted in.

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by weldone View Post
    What I mean is that if one is trying to test a t-joint for adequate pen... when you put the fillet side in the vise and wack the oppsitite side of the joint with a sledge intill the weld breaks if it is properly fused it breaks straight down the middle of the weld. If not properly fused it will break or the lack of fusion will be evidient at the toe(s) of the fillet.

    Hope that helps.
    Dave
    Oh, so let me see if I understand correctly. You are saying that the actual weld should be weaker than the base metal?

    Leave a comment:


  • weldone
    replied
    What I mean is that if one is trying to test a t-joint for adequate pen... when you put the fillet side in the vise and wack the oppsitite side of the joint with a sledge intill the weld breaks if it is properly fused it breaks straight down the middle of the weld. If not properly fused it will break or the lack of fusion will be evidient at the toe(s) of the fillet.

    Hope that helps.
    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    Probably and would never would trust it to hold anything up. I just thought it was interesting having about 3/16" penetration with 100amps dialed in on the machine.

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  • lramberson
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by weldone View Post
    yep. good pen and would of broken down the center.
    Please explain what you are mean?

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  • weldone
    replied
    Originally posted by wrench3047 View Post
    It broke on the piece in the vise, it tore out a good chunk of the base metal. I say it was about 3/16" penetration give or take a little. By no means a good weld on a 3/4" piece, but IMO impressive at 100amps.
    dseman
    thanks will read up on that. I getting now was probably maintaining a short arc length thus the DIG "up'ed the juice"

    yep. good pen and would of broken down the center.

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    Originally posted by weldone View Post
    Hey wrench let me ask ...when you broke it did the weld break at the toe or down the middle of the fillet?
    It broke on the piece in the vise, it tore out a good chunk of the base metal. I say it was about 3/16" penetration give or take a little. By no means a good weld on a 3/4" piece, but IMO impressive at 100amps.

    dseman
    thanks will read up on that. I getting now was probably maintaining a short arc length thus the DIG "up'ed the juice"

    Leave a comment:


  • dseman
    replied
    Originally posted by jas-b View Post
    I haint had anybody explain why yet, and a few told me I aint right, but the dynasty stick welding seems to take less amps.
    jas-b
    If you are using the 'dig' control and set it to zero, you have a pretty close to constant-current response. That is, changing the arc-length, will not change the amperage. As you add more and more 'dig', you are adding more amperage as your arc-length becomes smaller. It's as if you are now operating on a slope, so that your meter may indicate 60 amps, but in actuallity, you're operating at anywhere between 60 and 200amps, depending on the amount of 'dig' you are adding.

    This document provides a pictorial explanation:

    http://millerwelds.com/education/edu.../pdf/Stick.pdf

    -dseman

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  • weldone
    replied
    Originally posted by wrench3047 View Post
    Ran a few beads today and was seriously inpressed. I had two 3"x3"x3/4" chucks laying around figured I'd try it. Ran a bead at 100amps and they melted together very well. let it cool put it in the vise hit with a 3lb hammer. It broke but only after a few good solid hits.
    I went back and ran a 6010 on the 1/8" steel with playing around with amps I had full fusion at about 40amps and no fall out.
    Hey wrench let me ask ...when you broke it did the weld break at the toe or down the middle of the fillet?

    Leave a comment:


  • jas-b
    Guest replied
    good for you wrench. I haint had anybody explain why yet, and a few told me I aint right, but the dynasty stick welding seems to take less amps. I know an inverter is not as pure as an old Lincoln generater. The dynasty is switching on and off fast enough to superimpose dc on an AC bias. but from my experience, I turn down amps from what I think I need.

    jas-b

    Leave a comment:

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