New Shop pics

[fun4now]

whatever you pipe it with keep it large to allow more flow volume. some of the air tools really want the air and a large feed line really helps with your over all air volume available. my fathers shop has had the grey pipe in for about 7 years with no problems. just be shore to keep a shut off valve at the tank in-case you hit and break a feed line.
copper sh-our would look nice though. i suppose the lil dog would have to polish it every few weeks though.

[J hall]

As nice as your shop is going to be, I wouldn't cut corners on air piping.
I would definitely use black steel pipe with water drains on all the drops.
Get rid of any pet****s in the system and use small ball valves.

censor software is fun.....I sometimes have trouble figuring what people are saying when there are sveveral**** in a row..I was referring to the small cheap brass turn valve like come on a compressor.

[imported_frank865]

I don't consider using the schedule 80 PVC to be cutting corners. I wanted the best I could get for my new shop when I built it in 92. After considering all the factors I could think of, I chose the PVC over black iron pipe or copper.
The last shop I was in before this one had copper, & it was OK but seemed a little fragile, I had to do several repairs while I was there. I almost went with the black iron, but have seen internal corrosion problems with it, sometimes within 5 - 10 years after new installations.
It's your shop, use what you want. I'm very happy with the schedule 80 PVC, & don't consider that I cut any corners to use it. But if somebody else wants to use another system.....That's why they make chocolate & vanilla! They all work. Weigh your needs & wants & make your decision. I did & I'm pleased with it after over 10 years or not always gentile use.

Another thing to consider putting in your air system is a condensing loop. PileBuck has one in his system, I saw it in a picture he posted a few days ago.
I didn't use one, but if I was going to do much painting, I'd add one.
HTH

[fun4now]

i was also wondering about the black pipe having rust isues, even the best systems seem to end up with moisture in them and was wondering how long it would be befor this presented an problem?? considering it would be an internal isue you would have no warning befor a rupture and would likely need to replace the intire system atthe first sign of truble.
i also saw a realy cool systen of coverd aluminum pipeing on one of the truck shows but cant remember the name of it. but it looked like an easy install with lots of conector options. it might also be werth looking into but the $ will likely be high.
also a flexible conector between the compressor and the air pipeing is also a good idea, it will keep the vibrations of the compressor from being transferd into the lines witch can cause eventual failure due to excesive shaking. a small pice of hydrolic line about 1 foot long should do a nice job of this and you likly have some around the shop from the looks of all your toys.
i think i would go with the grey PVC, no rusting isues to deal with and easy to asemble as well as low wait for simpler hanging.
i have been planing on moving my compressor motor up into the atic also to keep down the noise. and plan on adding a condensation loop when i make the move. i have seen some realy simple systend made out of 3" piping also that might be an option. i'll look around for some pic's of that type for ya.

[imported_frank865]

Good point on the flex line...I always get a hydraulic line made up for the connection between the compressor & the plumbing. several feet makes it easy to move the compressor if needed & pretty much isolates the vibration.
I also use 1/4 or 3/8 pipe & a ball valve & get the drain to where it's easy to get to. I always turn the power off to my compressor at night & back on in the morning. The water drain is near the power switch, so I drain the tank (just a quick twist, open then close) twice a day. Turning the compressor off each night also is a quick & easy leak detection check, if it starts every time I turn it on, I look for a leak. If it only starts once in a while I know my hoses & couplers are doing what they're supposed to.
HTH

[fun4now]

off and on every day is a good idea, i just throw the shut off valve at the tank and leave it on but i know i have a leak in the big shop at the hose reel so if i dont cut the air off at the tank it cycles all night, not a big leak just a lil one, i supose if it was a bigger leak i would get off my but and fix it.

[Bulldog]

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the good input! I would love to use gray plastic as long as it will handle 150psi. I have only ever used black iron and have no experience using the pvc pipe for air. Is the gray pvc any different then the white that ya use for water? Is it the gray that ya buy in the electrical section at the big box stores?
Thanks again guys,
Bulldog

[Troll]

I prefer the copper or black pipe. Neither one will "burst" due to pressure or shock. I know there is a price difference, but its just my $.02. If moisture is a concern the are water seperators out there for a moderate price. Nothing is perfect but I like the copper over the pipe for the simple reason that it is easier to splice into for future additions.

[MintSScout]

You're a Marine or a Ex-Marine ain't ya Troll?

[dseman]

From a previous post of mine:

I know pvc is widely used by the weekend warrior crowd for compressed air. But they are exposing themselves to much more risk then is necessary. Here's why:

"The main problem with using PVC pipe and fittings for compressed gas is not that it spontaneously explodes but that PVC is a brittle material that can be broken or shattered with external force unless properly protected. Compressed gasses can be best described as being similar to a coiled spring. When a PVC pipe or fitting fails when under stress from compressed gas it literally explodes like a bomb, sending shards of plastic flying several feet in all directions. Liquids, on the other hand, being compressed by only 1/10th of 1% contain very little stored energy. When pressurized systems with liquids fail, the energy is dissipated very quickly, thereby creating a much lower potential for hazard." - Colonial Engineering.

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

If you contact any pvc pipe manufacturer, they will state the same.
The pipe's psi rating you state you are not violating is a compressed liquid rating and not a compressed gas rating.

I had to spend quite a bit of time convincing my brother of the same, even after he had a section shatter at a pvc / brass joint junction.

Copper or black iron is not really expensive at all when one's safety/health is concerned.

I doubt this will change your mind on the matter, but hopefully it will give others pause for concern before installing their own.

Copper is actually easy to work with if you know how to solder. No cumbersome threading operations involved. See the following for copper size and joining recommendations:

http://www.copper.org/applications/p...cth_table4.htm

Recommendations are for type K or L, not M drawn tubing, and minimally 95/5 soldered joints. Easy to do for the homeowner.

The advantage I see for black iron is that it can take physical abuse that copper may not. But, it can get rusty inside--collecting in your filter--and it requires threading equipment and goop for sealing.

-dseman

[imported_frank865]

The white PVC is fragile stuff when used as air supply, I've seen the aftermath of a failure from it.
The schedule 80 gray PVC IS approved for compressed air service. I checked on Black iron, copper & PVC before I did mine, & as I said in an earlier post, at least 2 of the local industrial plants use the PVC like I do. I know a lot of the guys that work maintenance at these plants & they say it's the greatest stuff since sliced bread.
If you use it, be sure to get Schedule 80 PVC pipe, not conduit. I get a local plumbing supply to get it for me, also use the schedule 80 fittings. I get the fittings from MSC.
It's your shop, make your own choice, just telling you what I use & am happy with.

[fun4now]

diferent PVC pipe is rated at diferent PSI, you need to get the right stuff or you will have the explosive isues above.schedule 80 is what you need

[fun4now]

looks like we posted at the same time i guess i gotta type faster LOL but then i just miss spell even worse.

[dseman]

Ok, I'm not here to start a fight. I just want to lay out the facts, and I think the manufacturers know something about their products and any liability they may have if a problem occured. Here's what I just found in 5 minutes from 2 manufacturers:

1.) Spears Manufacturing Company

http://www.swtwater.com/catalog/pictures/Spears_Sch80_PVC_Sales_2006.pdf

Note the paragraph titled "Not for use with compressed air or gases"

2.) United States Plastic Corporation

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&category_name=13669&product_id=16587&cookie%5Ftest=1

Under the description of both their schedule 40 and 80 pvc pipe it states:
"Pipe is not recommended for use with compressed air or gases."

That is certainly enough information for me, but as always it's your call on how you choose to apply the information.

-dseman

[dseman]

diferent PVC pipe is rated at diferent PSI, you need to get the right stuff or you will have the explosive isues above.schedule 80 is what you need

Fun, you need to understand that those psi ratings are based on compression testing of liquids and not gases.

Anything over 73F in temperature and they are de-rated considerably. Even if the de-rated liquid psi was 3x that of my recommended air pressure needs, it is clear from the manufacturer that it is not to be used for compressed air. You can choose to use it if you do, but please don't spread mis-information by saying that increasing the wall thickness to a schedule 80 will make things acceptable.

-dseman