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  • #31
    I just went out and looked at the blades. The wood blades teeth have a rake leaning them much farther forward than the metal blade where the teeth apeer to have very little rake. I think the lack of forward rake on the teeth contribute a lot to the chips being able to exit easyer reduceing the amount that makes it to the top side. I also took a measurement on how high above the table I can get with the 7 1/4" blade, I can 1 7/8" above the table. I'l be interested to hear how the 10" works for you. (assumeing you're saw is 10")
    To all who contribute to this board.
    My sincere thanks , Pete.

    Pureox OA
    Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
    Miller Syncrowave 250
    Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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    • #32
      Originally posted by burninbriar View Post
      I just went out and looked at the blades. The wood blades teeth have a rake leaning them much farther forward than the metal blade where the teeth apeer to have very little rake. I think the lack of forward rake on the teeth contribute a lot to the chips being able to exit easyer reduceing the amount that makes it to the top side. I also took a measurement on how high above the table I can get with the 7 1/4" blade, I can 1 7/8" above the table. I'l be interested to hear how the 10" works for you. (assumeing you're saw is 10")
      Saw is 10" .... but a 7 1/4" blade is easiest and cheapest to acquire at the moment. So I amy opt for the 7 1/4 for this test.

      Yes if the rake is sharper the chip will hang longer.

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      • #33
        An other benefit of useing the 7 1/4" is that when you go back to wood there is no speed change. What I was thinking of doing is to use step pullys so I would just need to move the belt. I'm really curious to what kind of differance a 10 " would make. But like I said earlier, I'm still not comfortable with it and I will still be leary of any problems that might occur.But so far so good. Be sure to post when you give it a try so we can compair notes, we might be on to something here.
        As far as the chips go, there was chips comming to the top , but not near as bad as I expected.
        To all who contribute to this board.
        My sincere thanks , Pete.

        Pureox OA
        Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
        Miller Syncrowave 250
        Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

        Comment


        • #34
          Here is a comparison of the tooth rakes, the first one is the 7 1/4" metal blade and the second is the 10" wood blade, its pretty much an all purpose blade design. I don't know what the actual rake is on it, or either one for that matter.
          Attached Files
          To all who contribute to this board.
          My sincere thanks , Pete.

          Pureox OA
          Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
          Miller Syncrowave 250
          Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by burninbriar View Post
            Here is a comparison of the tooth rakes, the first one is the 7 1/4" metal blade and the second is the 10" wood blade, its pretty much an all purpose blade design. I don't know what the actual rake is on it, or either one for that matter.

            One more thing to note.

            On the saw blade behind each carbide tooth there is a small hump that is not evident on the woodworking blade.

            The pupose of this hump is to help control feed rate to avoid taking too large of a "bite" out of the workpiece. That hump is aslo used on some wood blades. if you were to take a straight edge for the top of one tooth and lay it on the hump behind the tooth and touch the tooth behind the hump you'd see how deep the tooth is allowed to bite.

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            • #36
              I didn't get a precise measurement but the bite is limited to about 1/32" on the metal blade. I saw you left the board for a while. Did you go buy you're self a blade ?
              To all who contribute to this board.
              My sincere thanks , Pete.

              Pureox OA
              Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
              Miller Syncrowave 250
              Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

              Comment


              • #37
                Hey harcosparky ; I see youre on line here, wondering if you got a blade yet ?
                Also was thinking about precisionworks concerns with safety and thought it would be a good idea to once again warn that if any one else trys this, to make sure there is no dust collecter hooked up and no old wood dust in or under the saw to ignight.
                To all who contribute to this board.
                My sincere thanks , Pete.

                Pureox OA
                Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                Miller Syncrowave 250
                Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by burninbriar View Post
                  Also was thinking about precisionworks concerns with safety and thought it would be a good idea to once again warn that if any one else trys this, to make sure there is no dust collecter hooked up and no old wood dust in or under the saw to ignight.
                  What??? Remove that extra element of SURPRISE! ROFLMAO.

                  No did not get a saw yet. However I spoke to a few people today in person about this and we came up with another issue. Most table saws around are the cheaper " contractor " saw where the drive motor hangs out the back of the saw. The leaves the motor highly suceptible to metal chips getting inside and shorting it out. Have no fear a fix for this is easy, somewhat.

                  A shroud can be built around / over the motor. It would have to be 2 piece, 1 piece on each side of the drive belt. A sort of brush system to 'wipe' the belt as it enters and exits the saw to knock chips off the belt.

                  Sounds complicated but in reality I did just this to improve dust collection on one saw. Basically sealed off the area below the table and in front of the motor with dust collector mounted on the bottom. Whe a cut was made you could literally see saw dust being sucked into the table saw.

                  For this metal saw conversion we are gonna remove the PLASTIC dust collection panel and replace it with aluminum.

                  I will be working on this all next week, try to put something together using an old and disposable cheap table saw I have thrown in the junk pile in a barn. ( if the motor still runs )

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                  • #39
                    Oh yeah....

                    I was not around today as I took my son 100 miles from here to a Race Track where the MILLER ROAD SHOW rig was.

                    We got a close up look at the OCC Chopper built for Miller.

                    Got to play with all the Miller toys and picked up a ton of hints and tricks!!!!!

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                    • #40
                      Sounds like a good trip, I'll bet you're son had a good time. How did like the chopper ?
                      Thanks for the heads up on the moter and belt. I didn't notice any chips on the moter but I'll check it out closer tomaro. It would be a blessing if it destroys my belt, it would get me to replace it, its not in the best of shape.
                      To all who contribute to this board.
                      My sincere thanks , Pete.

                      Pureox OA
                      Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                      Miller Syncrowave 250
                      Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by harcosparky View Post
                        What??? Remove that extra element of SURPRISE! ROFLMAO.

                        No did not get a saw yet. However I spoke to a few people today in person about this and we came up with another issue. Most table saws around are the cheaper " contractor " saw where the drive motor hangs out the back of the saw. The leaves the motor highly suceptible to metal chips getting inside and shorting it out. Have no fear a fix for this is easy, somewhat.

                        A shroud can be built around / over the motor. It would have to be 2 piece, 1 piece on each side of the drive belt. A sort of brush system to 'wipe' the belt as it enters and exits the saw to knock chips off the belt.

                        Sounds complicated but in reality I did just this to improve dust collection on one saw. Basically sealed off the area below the table and in front of the motor with dust collector mounted on the bottom. Whe a cut was made you could literally see saw dust being sucked into the table saw.

                        I checked mine out today. The belt side of the blade is sheilded very well by the framework of the saw and the motor is sheilded fairly well by the saw frame.(the cast iron works of the saw) I had no cuttings on or around the motor but I am going to improve the sheilding there to be on the safe side.
                        To all who contribute to this board.
                        My sincere thanks , Pete.

                        Pureox OA
                        Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                        Miller Syncrowave 250
                        Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Well not much done today.

                          Acquired TWO blades.

                          Freud DIABLO STEEL DEMON 7 1/4" Max Rated Speed - 5800 RPM $39.99 ( Home Depot )

                          LENOX Steel Cutting 7 1/4" Max Rated Speed 5800 RPM $59.99 ( Lowes )

                          Interesting to not the Freud does not have the hump as pronounced behind the carbide tip as does the Lenox. Lenox looks more like hte steel blade pic * burninbriar * posted earlier.

                          Installed the Freud on a DELTA Shop Master 10" Miter Saw. ( note had to dismantle the Delta saw to clean out the crud from a Fiber blade ).

                          Made a cut into a piece of 1" X 2" , 1/8" thick rectangular tubing.

                          WOW ... what a cut it made. The cut went smoothly with more resistance felt on the flat surfaces being cut as opposed to the verticle cut. This is as expected. When I made the cut I had the tubing laying down flat. I should had it up so the saw cut into the 1" side first. Would have made the cut go a little faster. Lesson learned! LOL

                          There was some sparking noticed but nowhere near as much as I saw with the woodworking blade. Again I expected this.

                          I am going to order a Freud in 10" for the table saw.

                          The Lenox blade, costing $20 more than the Freud is going back.

                          In looking at this, most 14" metal chop saw with cold cut blade run say $400 and up.

                          I can get a Delta Shopmaster 10" Miter and 7 Freud 7 1/4" blades for $380.00. Given that all I want to cut at this point on the saw with a carbide blade would be mitered ends on angle, flat stock, round bar and boxed tubing.

                          I found the Delta 10" Shopmaster saw to be the best for the job. It has less plastic on the base where the blades comes down. Also less plastic on the back of the saw. I did remove the plastic insert where the cut is made as well as the plastic piece that is behind the blade. All the other saws had too much plastic on them.

                          Also due to the smaller diameter I had to remove the " blade stop " screw from the saw to allow the blade to come down farther so that the blade would go completely through at the fence.

                          More on this tomorrow as we intend to use the saw as it is to finish up cutting angle for our welding table. I feel confident the rest of the table construction will go much smooter and faster as a result of this blade change.

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                          • #43
                            Good deal :
                            I was wondering if you noticed any differance in the rake on the teeth between the Freud and the Lenox blade ? The blade I had pictured is the Lenox.
                            I wish I would have known about the price differance, I'm on a tight budget.
                            My 0 tolerance insert is made of phenolic plastic, I noticed no damage what so ever to it after several feet of cutting on 12 guage ms. I agree with you though about removeing any plastic , especially where you cant keep an eye on it.My saw is a very, very old craftsman and the 0 tolerance blade insert I made is the only plastic on it. Its so old that a blade insert cant be bought for it, I tryed every where and no one makes one the same size.
                            When you do the 10" blade, do you still plan to slow it down or run the way it is ? I'm interested in youre results.
                            To all who contribute to this board.
                            My sincere thanks , Pete.

                            Pureox OA
                            Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                            Miller Syncrowave 250
                            Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                            Comment

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