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Anyone here do 4130 chassis'?

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  • Anyone here do 4130 chassis'?

    What tig machine do you prefer?

  • #2
    Hi silverbullet. I do lots of work on moly race cars. I support the OSCA event racers with my on site weld rig. www.raceosca.com I run Full Throttle Welding. I use a Dynasty 200DX for my field work and a good chunk of my shop work aswell. I love this machine. It can do it all and the portability is hard to beat. If I were to recomend a shop only unit I highly recomend the Syncrowave series.

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    • #3
      My opinion is that, within the realm of name-brand TIG machines other than bottom of the barrel stuff, DC arc quality doesn't really differ between machines. Ofcourse if you're going to do any light wall tube like .065" or thinner, a pulser may come in handy.

      And if you're doing chassis', you'll not just be welding round tube. You'll find yourself wanting to do your own version of some nicknack that someone else sells, which means you never know what you'll need to weld, which means you should keep AC features in mind also.

      Then your neghbors will find out you can weld, and you'll be welding lawn chairs and coffee tables too.

      I would highly suggest the Dynasty 300 for its versatility. There's almost nothing it can't weld well. I have the 200 and really wish I saved up longer for the 300.

      If we're talking strictly DC operation, again, the machine itself isn't a huge make or break item. The biggest thing then is to make sure you have a water cooled torch setup. You'll want a full compliment of gas lenses with an array of cups, but keep a decent selection of standard collets around because in super tight corners, they can fit better than a gas lens can.

      You'll also need some kind of finger amp control. Do a search as there was a thread on this subject not long ago.

      And advil. Lots and lots of advil.

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      • #4
        4130 chassis

        Silverbullet, I agree with Matt, if you are welding thin wall tubing the pulse feature is handy. I would highly recommend a machine that does A/C even though you may not think you would use it. Trust me someday you will wish you had it. I have a Dynasty 300 in my home shop and a Synchrowave250 at work and on DC there really is not any noticable difference other than our Synchro does not have the pulser feature. I would recommend a water cooled unit and also a small torch. It makes getting into tight spots and fatigue alot better. The new lightweight cables on the Dynasty machines are awesome. They make manuverability easier and don't pull at the torch as much. A thumb/finger control is nice, I use mine probably about 5% of the time is all, most of the time I use the foot control. Once obtaining a machine save yourself some frustration and don't start on your project right away if unfamiliar with the machine. Cut some pieces and cope/fishmouth several at different angles and practice, practice, practice on the scraps before tackling an actual project. Be realistic with your expectations and also practice some out of position welds as well. Hope this info helps and good luck.

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        • #5
          I have welded a bunch of 4130 tubing for a chassis with a Miller Synchrowave 300amp unit. We used .035, .049, and .065 wall tubing. It was for a mini Baja car. The welder worked great, even though it was a older unit. I agree, AC is a nice option, since every once in a while you need to weld some aluminum piece together.

          All we had was the pedal, so sometimes it would get tricky welding in out of position locations. It is fun to have someome run the torch and another person to run the pedal.


          Tobin
          MM251
          Miller Dialarc HF-P 310 Amp Tig
          Victor O/A Setup
          Lincolin 225Amp Buzzbox
          Cummins Freak

          Comment


          • #6
            4130 Tig Welding

            I do a lot of 4130 chassis work for drag racing and what has been said about the basic machines is correct. I would like to add one thing, when you are searching for a machine get one that you can use hand amp controls with.I made this mistake, I have an old Miller machine that works great but I can't easily adapt the hand controls to it, and operating a foot pedal when your laying on your back welding under a chassis is pretty hard to do.

            Just a thought

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            • #7
              Powerstroke.....funny, the only time I've ever truly needed a finger control was when I was welding on a Formula SAE car at Florida. I literally wedged myself through the nose of the chassis and "pulsed" the .035" moly tubing by wedging the footpedal between myself and the side of the chassis. I sort of rolled back and forth to actuate the pedal!! Wooooo that was fun. I think I worked for a full day that way, then went to the welding shop the next morning FIRST THING to pick up the finger control.
              Miller 350P XR push/pull
              Miller 250 DX
              Spectrum 2050 Plasma

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              • #8
                For DC I prefer any name brand machine that produces the necessary amps on a reasonable duty cycle. Most all the work I've done in my days has been done on 3 different Syncrowave 250's. Great machine. I am in the market for a pulser addition to the 250 I currently have in my shop.

                I have welded 4x4 rockcrawling chassis, roll cages, and formula sae chassis in my recent days. Lots of 4130, lots of 1010-1020, and often times both to each other. Never have I ever really wanted a finger control.. And I have welded upside down, on my back, on my stomach, while wedged into small holes, and sometimes worse but I've never thought a hand control would make things any easier.

                My advice is to buy the most machine you can possible afford and enjoy welding!

                If you search my name you'll find pics of some of my fsae chassis welding and current rockcrawling chassis project welding.

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                • #9
                  I dug this up from the Hobart board because I just realized I never posted them here. If you're interested in seeing some fsae car work and an old long rant on 4130 welding it's all here.
                  http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/...ad.php?t=17967

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                  • #10
                    Revlimit-- I welded up my SAE mini Baja car. I went to UCF, fun times, just graduated. A lot of times I would use my knee to run the pedal. That .035 can get real tricky to weld, especially when the tubes have like 1/4" gap you gotta try and fill.


                    Tobin
                    MM251
                    Miller Dialarc HF-P 310 Amp Tig
                    Victor O/A Setup
                    Lincolin 225Amp Buzzbox
                    Cummins Freak

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Likewise, FSAE guy here. Do lots of .035-.095 wall 4130 tube. Syncrowave works just great. Don't have a finger control.. always fun welding inside a chassis and using your foot, leg, elbow, or rear end for pedal control

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Powerstrokinit
                        That .035 can get real tricky to weld, especially when the tubes have like 1/4" gap you gotta try and fill.
                        Tobin

                        Haha, no offense meant here at all, just can't help from making a fsae joke.. "****, Baja" OK, done.. I'm just plain convinced 98% of college engineers will never care to learn to fabricate at a high level. The hack stuff I see sometimes just blows me away (both baja, fsae, and other teams), but it's almost 100% typical in that environment. .035 wall tube with 1/4" gap is NOT a joint and I still can't get that through but to a few kids a year.. =]

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for all the helpful info guys .While welding thin 4130 ,and thicker stuff, I would also like to use this welder for aluminum heavy ,and thin.Any suggestions?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Billet Benny
                            Haha, no offense meant here at all, just can't help from making a fsae joke.. "****, Baja" OK, done.. I'm just plain convinced 98% of college engineers will never care to learn to fabricate at a high level. The hack stuff I see sometimes just blows me away (both baja, fsae, and other teams), but it's almost 100% typical in that environment. .035 wall tube with 1/4" gap is NOT a joint and I still can't get that through but to a few kids a year.. =]
                            I truly agree, but our 2 baja cars made it to two competitions, the fsae guys didn't even pass tech. I really wish we could have perfect joints that were nice and easy to weld and strong, but when you have to work full time, class full time, homework and try to build a whole car with about 3-4 people, you have to compromise somewhere.

                            I am gonna start building a cage for my car, trust me, the joints will have no gaps in them. I really wanted to fabricate at a higher level trust me, but we had a low selection of tools, no time, and the tools we did have were beat up real bad.

                            Tobin
                            MM251
                            Miller Dialarc HF-P 310 Amp Tig
                            Victor O/A Setup
                            Lincolin 225Amp Buzzbox
                            Cummins Freak

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Silverbullet
                              Thanks for all the helpful info guys .While welding thin 4130 ,and thicker stuff, I would also like to use this welder for aluminum heavy ,and thin.Any suggestions?
                              Again, for absolute versatility, you can't beat the Dynasty 300DX.

                              No offense, but you're asking pretty basic questions. Do you know how to weld 4130N?

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