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Who cuts their 36" tig filler down?

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  • #16
    I only cut if a limited room situation, It is way too wasteful both in time and material to cut them in half

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    • #17
      I admit, I am accustomed to cutting filler very often.. It's just one of those things. It seems that a long filler is never convenient for what I'm doing. I also hate that long end bouncing and dangling around 3 feet away.. Sometimes it messes w/ my control.

      I also ALWAYS snap tungstens in half. I never use a full length tungsten.. This is because I hate long back caps with uncomprimising passion..

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Billet Benny
        I admit, I am accustomed to cutting filler very often.. It's just one of those things. It seems that a long filler is never convenient for what I'm doing. I also hate that long end bouncing and dangling around 3 feet away.. Sometimes it messes w/ my control.

        I also ALWAYS snap tungstens in half. I never use a full length tungsten.. This is because I hate long back caps with uncomprimising passion..
        Same here.

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        • #19
          I don't just cut them in half, I also cut them to suitable length for the particular weld and discard what is left over. How many little short pieces do you really want to save.
          I prefer short pieces for ease of use and figure you are saving money not wasting it since you can produce a better weld fast and besides filler is cheap if it is not specialize.

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          • #20
            I can't remember the last time I cut one. Been doing it so long with the 36's that I can't imagine any other way.
            Miller 350P XR push/pull
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            • #21
              Ok here's the real question...
              Scott got me ta thinkin. How many weld the little pieces back together? Now thats the question...
              Bulldog
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              • #22
                That's how I was taught with gas welding, but I have never done it outside of the classroom (I think it was just to get us used to doing little stuff).

                The consumables used in fusing the stub cost more than the stub.

                I pitch them when they're too small to comfortably hold; with the exception of 1/8", because I use those for alignment pins. Even with those, I usually just cut down a longer stick into as many pins as I need.
                Syncrowave 250DX
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                And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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                • #23
                  That's what I did with Qxy/Acetylene, when the rod started getting hot, I'd stick it in the puddle & let it freeze. Then weld the new rod to the end of the old one, then reform the puddle & continue the weld.
                  Oxy/acetylene will sure teach you how to control the puddle! Learning it first really helped me with all the other processes I've learned.
                  Syncrowave 180 SD
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                  Professional Auto Mechanic since 1974
                  My own shop since 1981

                  Cya Frank

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