Contamination problem

[drewworm]

Contamination - SOLVED

To everyone who helped me on this issue...Thanks for your patience. I've been dying to get back at my project, but my real job keeps getting in the way of my fun. Today was the best welding day of my life. As I mentioned before, at one point I went through 2 inches of tungsten in one day and that was on about 8 lineal inches of weld bead.
I took a lot of the advice in this forum and here's what I did:

1. Increased gas flow to 17 cfm.
2. Decreased electrode stickout to just 1/8 inch.
3. Set the syncrowave on High Frequency "start" (NOT "lift-arc").

I put a new point on my tungsten and started welding. I only had to re-grind ONCE! Yet, I did five times as much welding as the other day and no contamination.
My feeling is the "lift-arc" feature on my machine was the whole problem. I swear that upon starting, the electrode was "freezing" to the work and grabbing a small piece of steel thereby contaminating my tungsten from the start. None of those problems with HF start.
Thanks everyone.

[Revlimit]

I've also gone to Stainless rod in these cases and it has been a cure for problems like this. Since all we use is 316L, this has been what I have used.

[dirtmonster17]

i was trying to weld the same thing last night im no expert on this but i know why mine was staying contaiminated.i did not clean the metal properly try cleaning the metal with a grinder and see what happens.how much heat where you using?

[burninbriar]

Although this does sound like a gas issue I have had mild steel that no matter what, I do it has porosity, if I switch to a SS filler it goes away. Try a 309 or 308 filler, see if that helps.

I have run into the same situation and used the same cure. (learned the cure from this forum)

[joebass]

Although this does sound like a gas issue I have had mild steel that no matter what, I do it has porosity, if I switch to a SS filler it goes away. Try a 309 or 308 filler, see if that helps.

[drewworm]

oldsparks

Forgot to mention that I will try leaving the torch on the work for a little before lifting.
Thanks

[drewworm]

I know from trying that the porosity cannot be welded over. It's frustrating. I have ground some out and welded back over.

[OldSparks]

drewworm

I don't know the workings of your syncrowave but the lift-arc on my XMT works by touching and maintaining contact momentarily before pulling away. If I get too quick, as in a scratch start, there is a tendency for the tungsten to stick. Is it possible that you have to wait longer after you step on the pedal before pulling away? As for your porosity, is it possible that when you are fighting the lift-arc that you are either twisting your torch or long arcing? Either can start the problem. Also do you know that you can't burn out porosity and that by going over a weld that may have a slight problem will only make it worse. The only way to get rid of porosity in a weld is to grind the whole area out. This can mean having to open up a hole an extra 1/8" into the base metal to make sure you got it all.

[drewworm]

Lift arc is there in case your are in an enviroment where the HF might damage sensative electronic equipment.

I've read this and was wondering if HF start can cause the same damage as running HF program? My welder is at home (around sensative electronics?) Does my computer or TV or the fridge consitute sensative?

I'd really like to get away from the lift arc. I'm not welding again until Thursday so any further input from the field is appreciated.

Just a side note - Anyone out there watch "Driving Force"? I just finished the episode where Ashley gets her funny car license. She laid down a really sweet pass of 4.93 at 315. I can only dream. They're making history. I think it's cool.

[Tailshaft56]

Lift arc is there in case your are in an enviroment where the HF might damage sensative electronic equipment.

[drewworm]

Why would Miller employ "lift arc" if HF start is so easy? Sometimes there are just too many options and it's best not to try and re-invent the wheel. I can't wait to try it. I've been fooling around with that darn lift arc too long.

[Billet Benny]

Use HF Start and not HF Continuous.

[Fishy Jim]

Just set the machine to HF, then hold the torch above the work at about the right height for welding and depress the pedal. Too easy.

My tigmate had a bit of wander at first while the arc stabilized, but the sync 250dx just sparks and is rock solid from the start.

[drewworm]

Help me mmw

Give me some more info on the HF starts mmw.
I've been trying "lift arc" because I didn't know any other way. If I set the machine to HF, what special things to I need to do? How do I start with HF. I called Miller on the lift arc and they made it sound like the way to go, but I swear that it momentarily sticks to the work and I would think it's pulling off a microscopic piece of steel.
Do I need to do anything special to the syncro to do HF starts?

Again...all great info guys. I have lots of things to try, but I'll wait to hear from you, mmw, on the HF.
Thanks

[drewworm]

Thanks everyone for your feedback.
The gas is definately 100% argon.
Sounds like my stickout is too far from what I've been told. I will reduce it to about 1/4" or less beyond the cup which is a #7 I think.
How do I know if the hoses are sealed tight against leaks? I don't hear anything (also I figured that gas would just seep OUT, I didn't expect it to suck IN atmosphere). I may change the gas hose anyway as I don't know it's age.
I'm in my garage, but it was kind of breezy today. I set up some plywood
(4x8) shields.
I'm also probably running too far an arc length. It's kind of hard to see without getting my helmet right down next to the weld and then it's hard for me to maintain 1/8 without dipping.