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Concrete Mixer Conversion

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  • burninbriar
    replied
    That post wasnt there when I began mine, sorry. Looks nice.

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  • Twocentsworth
    replied
    burninbriar,

    It looks like we are on the same wavelength. That is almost exactly what I did. I hope the pictures show up for you in the above post. Thanks!

    To better answer fun4now’s question it was a money thing. I could have bought another 10HP motor and been done with it. I hated to just junk it as the drum is still good and turns smooth, so I thought I could just convert it to three point. Lol, $80 parts and $2000.00 worth of labor, there it is. My wife says my labor is now worth $0, so about $80 is what I have in the conversion.

    Twocentsworth.

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  • burninbriar
    replied
    If the red arrow is the rotation I would go with the vacinity of 5 . I noticed there does not seem to be any braceing at the centerlink, #6 in my attachment (sorry for the poor drawing). Do you plan to put some in ?
    Attached Files

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  • Twocentsworth
    replied
    I have 3 tractors only one of which has live hydraulics. The other two are an old 8n and a 9n Fords. I do have an add on hydraulic pump for the Fords that works off the PTO, but it’s a little bit of a pain to put on with the separate hydraulic oil tank. That definitely would have worked and made sense though.
    I finished the mixer and found a major glitch sort of. With the three point hitch and the two wheel rear axle, the mixer is hard to turn with the small tractors. They will lift the whole thing off the ground to turn easy but the front of the tractor is touch and go. I have a bigger 65HP John Deere that will have no problems with it. I may just add the hitch Tigman250 suggested and pull it where I want it to if I would use the smaller tractors, and that way it would be real easy to maneuver.
    I had two of these mixers in business. I sold the one with the 10 HP motor, and just thought I would convert the other one with the bad motor for small things around the farm. It just turned out to be much more work than I thought. I had to plasma cut the three point hitch braces stuff out of ½ inch plate, which banana shaped them a bit, so had to grind that out. Then bending the ½ plate to get just the right angles took a good bit of trial and mostly error.
    To make the slack adjuster I turned some stuff on the lathe and added bronze bushings, etc.
    Anyway, in the end it works real well. Last picture is of the John Deere. BTW, I made the roof, roll over bar, or whatever you want to call it for the tractor. 4 X 4 X ¼” uprights. ¾” plate for the mount brackets. 7014 stick for the welds.
    Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions. You folks are great. Sorry for the long winded posts.

    Twocentsworth
    Attached Files

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  • fun4now
    replied
    just curious, but why not just use a hydraulic motor for it??then you could have set up the motor on a slide mount for tensioning. was it a $$$ thing or practicality thing??
    looking good.

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  • zmotorsports
    replied
    chain guard

    Awesome looking chain guard. I think that will do the trick. Looks heavy duty enough.

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  • martymar333
    replied
    looks good.....keep us updated

    marty

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  • Twocentsworth
    replied
    Slack side it will be. I will make the tensioner tomorrow. Today I got the chain guard fabbed and welded up. Just have to drill some holes to mount it.

    Twocentsworth
    Attached Files

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  • Stick rod
    replied
    I`ll agree slack side of chain.
    Looks good.

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  • tigman250
    replied
    Originally posted by Twocentsworth
    I had just intended to use the mixer around the farm for odd jobs. In the last picture, the foot that is underneath has a large round hole in it. This was where the original hitch was. It was a round tube that was pushed in out of the way to use the mixer and pulled out to transport it. lol, it would be easy enough at this point to install another tube with hitch, and a couple of safety chains and put it on the road.

    Twocentsworth

    mabey it would be better to leave the hitch off of it........less of your friends will want to "borrow" it

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  • Rvannatta
    replied
    you aways want the tensioner on the slack side of a belt or chain. Otherwise the bearings on a power side tensioner have to hold the full power of the job instead of just keeping the chain from rattling.

    I would have frankly used a V-Belt for the job but you have a chain
    so so be it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Twocentsworth
    replied
    Thanks very much for the help. I see now I was thinking wrong.

    Quote from tigman250:
    just curious, why did you make it a 3 pt hitch setup instead of a trailer type? you could still use the pto to run it and you wouldn't be limited to a tractor transpotring it.

    I had just intended to use the mixer around the farm for odd jobs. In the last picture, the foot that is underneath has a large round hole in it. This was where the original hitch was. It was a round tube that was pushed in out of the way to use the mixer and pulled out to transport it. lol, it would be easy enough at this point to install another tube with hitch, and a couple of safety chains and put it on the road.

    Twocentsworth

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  • zmotorsports
    replied
    tensioner

    twocentsworth, looks like a nice job. I agree with tigman, you want to tension the slack side to allow as much engagement of teeth on the sprockets as possible. In your picture it looks like around #4. I had to make a tensioner a while back for a conveyor system and I used a spring loaded tensioner off of a serpentine belt set-up. I replace the smooth pulley with a small sprocket of the same chain size as the others and machined the center out to axcept a bearing and bolted it back on. The spring loaded tensioner provided more than enough tension to keep the chain engaged on the sprockets. Hope this helps.

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  • tigman250
    replied
    just curious, why did you make it a 3 pt hitch setup instead of a trailer type? you could still use the pto to run it and you wouldn't be limited to a tractor transpotring it. any of the locations you have marked out will work although i try to tension the slack side of the chain from the outside, in your picture this would be on the left side pushing the chain inward. when you push the chain in it allows more chain on the sprockets as opposed to pushing it outward......with that said your sprockets are far enough apart that it probably wouldn't matter. nice job it should be a good unit when you get it done!

    Leave a comment:


  • Twocentsworth
    started a topic Concrete Mixer Conversion

    Concrete Mixer Conversion

    Ever start one of those projects that seemed simple at first; then wish you had never started? I had this old 9 cubic foot concrete mixer that the 10 HP motor went bad on and figured I would convert it over to a three point hitch setup and run it off a tractor. The axle was moved from one end to the other etc. etc. I would appreciate some opinions on the location of the chain tensioner or idler. In the last picture I marked some possible locations 1 to 4. I was going to make a lever setup with a spring to apply the tension. The three point hitch top link braces and the chain shield are not done yet. Rotation is clockwise. Thanks!

    Twocentsworth
    Attached Files
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