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What Anodized Aluminum Welds Should Look Like

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  • gtcway
    replied
    Originally posted by martinmarinedes
    This weld is from the guys at EM&C. According to a recent article, these welds were made in a single pass. The welds on this t-top look nothing like the Pipe Welders' weld although most of them have been "reflowed."
    Those welds look like the welds on a t-top a semi-local guy did for me a couple years ago. He does great work and has nice designs for custom tops.

    Leave a comment:


  • martinmarinedes
    replied
    This weld is from the guys at EM&C. According to a recent article, these welds were made in a single pass. The welds on this t-top look nothing like the Pipe Welders' weld although most of them have been "reflowed."
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • martinmarinedes
    replied
    One thing I have noticed is that the brushed pipe welds different than the polished pipe. The polished pipe, like the kind in the picture seems to have less anodize material and as a result seems to weld cleaner than the 320 grit brushed pipe. If you notice in the picture, the anodize is distinctly pushed out of the puddle. The sand grooves must allow the anodize to build up more on the brushed pipe. Consequently, the anodize gets pushed out of the puddle quicker and easier with the polished pipe. Can anyone confirm my observation?

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  • dyn88
    replied
    Sounds like entirely to much thought put into it. Button, fill, advance, bottun, fill, advance, etc. Give it a try, its almost like you have to let the bead freeze around the edges, then attack it with another jolt and some wire for the next bead. There are some guys out there can do it with a foot pedal and some pumping. Everything mus be as clean as possible also.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott V
    replied
    Originally posted by Engloid
    Honestly, no...but I can't really see how it would be of benefit, especially on inconsistent fitups... However, explain the logic behind it and such... maybe I'll be swayed into giving it a shot.
    When using a button in the four step mode it allows a way to control
    current without going into downslope. If you are welding along at the set current on the machine, and you push the button, it slopes down the end current. Let up on the button it ramps back up. It will ramp up as long as you don't go past your ramp down time. If you do hold to long, it will go into finish current set and then on to post flow. It is doing about the same thing you are doing with the fast button movement. It works really smooth for me because
    the puddle is aways getting away from me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Engloid
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott V
    Have you used the repeat mode with the Dynasty series
    or the Thermal unit. Just wondering if you have tried
    it and discarded it for this application. 99.9 % of the
    owners of those machine never have used it. That
    is why I asked.
    Honestly, no...but I can't really see how it would be of benefit, especially on inconsistent fitups... However, explain the logic behind it and such... maybe I'll be swayed into giving it a shot.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott V
    replied
    Originally posted by Engloid
    I prefer NOT using any sequencer or anything on this stuff. the reason is because by doing it all manually, you have all the adjustability you want "on the fly." Fits are never perfect, and having the ability to change timing of your bumping the button helps you control heat as needed.
    Have you used the repeat mode with the Dynasty series
    or the Thermal unit. Just wondering if you have tried
    it and discarded it for this application. 99.9 % of the
    owners of those machine never have used it. That
    is why I asked.

    Leave a comment:


  • BillC
    replied
    Engloid,

    Didn't you take a job welding anodized aluminum within the last few months? What was your final approach to welding through an anodized surface?

    Regards,

    Leave a comment:


  • Engloid
    replied
    I prefer NOT using any sequencer or anything on this stuff. the reason is because by doing it all manually, you have all the adjustability you want "on the fly." Fits are never perfect, and having the ability to change timing of your bumping the button helps you control heat as needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sundown
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott V
    George,
    the repeat mode should work really well by playing with the downslope time.
    Try a real short ramp down time to see what happens. If not then try the on/off only. You have the tech. to do what you need but it always boils down to skill somewhere along the way.
    I can start with 0 sec up to 25 sec in tenths of a sec, I do wonder about setting it very short and letting it go into postflow. I can set it long, say 3-4 sec, then it could be controlled by manually letting it go down the ramp until it looks right then button back to the full amperage again and keep repeating until you are done. Sounds like it will need some practice for sure, I may need to get ahold of more annodized scrap to try it out on, in any case it sounds like it will be fun or frustrating or both.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott V
    replied
    George,
    the repeat mode should work really well by playing with the downslope time.
    Try a real short ramp down time to see what happens. If not then try the on/off only. You have the tech. to do what you need but it always boils down to skill somewhere along the way.

    Leave a comment:


  • Engloid
    replied
    Originally posted by gtcway
    I've been doing that but having a difficult time getting the "coins" to look anything like the picture above. Practice, practice, practice
    From start to finish of the weld, never let the puddle completely "dry" up. It makes the ripples blend in smoother, rather than look so sharp and rough.

    Leave a comment:


  • gtcway
    replied
    Originally posted by dyn88
    i told you buzz, stop, buzz, stop, buzz, stop. Dont try to adjust current with a pedal, just put a bead in at a time. Afinger micro switch is best, and run it hot. On fill, off, on fill, of, on fill, off, etc.
    I've been doing that but having a difficult time getting the "coins" to look anything like the picture above. Practice, practice, practice

    Leave a comment:


  • dyn88
    replied
    1/16 filler also, that will make it easier. With our sync 351 we set it at 80% en and about 160 amps with a 1/8 tungsten sharpened down to about a 3/32 flat(maybe a little smaller). It may seem a little hot at first but it keeps you moving at a nice pace. I bet a pulser with a low background current set at about 2 pulses per second would work but I dont like to be a victim of a machines timing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sundown
    replied
    Originally posted by dyn88
    i told you buzz, stop, buzz, stop, buzz, stop. Dont try to adjust current with a pedal, just put a bead in at a time. Afinger micro switch is best, and run it hot. On fill, off, on fill, of, on fill, off, etc.
    I do have a button, I have ordered the tubing so it should be here end of next week. I have a button for my TA so will give it a try, thanks.

    Leave a comment:

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