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  • Did some out of position tig today .....

    Hi,

    Did some more "out of position" tig today.

    Was extremly difficult to find a workable position! Afinger control on the torch would be great but I can afford another torch! So I had to manage with my foot control.

    I was essentially looking at the weld bead upside down and I was welding on a vertical surface on essentially a lap joint and I was trying not to burn thru the rocker panel! the plate was 1/8" and the rockers must be 16ga. sheet metal so I was paying close attention to where most of the heat was going ......
    even so ........ my welds were acceptable. I know they might not look great, but I am confident I got good penetration.

    it was challenging!! great learning expirience! that what this whole project been about. I'v learned so many things because of this car!

    Today's project........

    I'm currently attaching the roll cage to various points on the unibody. This will increase the stiffness and torsional rigidity of the car. I have also seam welded alot on this car.

    V.A.R.A my vintage racing organization allows this to be done in my class (C-Sedan), altough in BMW CCA club racing doing this to my cage moved me up from "prepared" class to "modified" class. I would never be competitive in mod. class. But I only plan on racing with VARA so.....


    I learned some things doing the right side of the cage, now on the other side I hope to see better welds!

    after adding a couple more tubes on the cage, I'll be ready for BONDO! then primer.....

    by the end of the year I might even drive this thing!

    ANYWAY,

    do you guys have any tips on welding in awkward positions with a foot control? I did one weld today were I operated the foot control with my knee since it was more comfortable.....

    what I would really love is some pictures of some people tig welding a cage so I could see thier body positions......and stuff.

    the more I think about some of the welds that have to be done inside the car/cage I realize a finger control is almost a nessesity....

    here is a picture of my body position
    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=360&nh=480

    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=360&nh=480

    here is the finished project....

    not great looking but getting better,
    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480


    any tips on welding out of position or pictures would be great.
    Spectrum 625 Plasma Cutter
    MillerMatic 130XP
    Syncrowave 180 SD

    Visit my site Http://www.bmw1602.com

    My other toys...
    68' BMW Vintage racer
    04' Yamaha YZ250F Supermoto and moto-x

  • #2
    I'm almost done building the cage for my racecar and had to do quite a bit of out of position welding. One thing I picked up from this site is putting the foot pedal between your legs and controlling it that way. Another thing I've had to do a lot of is kneeling on the pedal. By far, the hardest part is seeing around to the backside of a joint. Sometimes part of the car blocks the helmet just enough to not trip the auto-dark sensors so I have to find a weird position.

    Comment


    • #3
      i find the thumb controll to be a real PITA! my boss has one on his welder and i hate using it, it is impossible to get awesome looking beads because any temp change requires you to move your thumb wich moves your hand and results in a un-uniform looking weld. not to mention you can only hold the torch one way. on my setup i can hold the torch in any position while using the foot controll and for me results in a much smoother looking weld. i have ran my foot controll with my knee on countless ocasions, between my knees, i built a stand so i could run it while laying on my back, **** i even used my elbow of my filler arm one time LOL (didn't result in the best weld either but it got done)

      if you still want to try one you just buy the thumb controll and strap it on the torch, you don't have to purchase a whole torch setup.

      EDIT-here is a link to an eBay auction selling just the controll so you can see what they look like http://cgi.ebay.com/Miller-Tig-Remot...QQcmdZViewItem
      The one that dies with the most tools wins

      If it's worth having, it's worth working for

      Comment


      • #4
        If you tig has the "Down slope with repeat" function then using a remote button on the torch is the easiest way I have found to to out of position work. I can get by fine with the floor remote but find it hard to deal with torch mounted remotes, neither the wheel or slide work well for me.
        Regards, George

        Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
        Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
        Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

        Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
        Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tigman250
          i find the thumb controll to be a real PITA! my boss has one on his welder and i hate using it, it is impossible to get awesome looking beads because any temp change requires you to move your thumb wich moves your hand and results in a un-uniform looking weld.
          Having made myself use a fingertip remote, I don't have any issues with it. Pulsed 2T works great. An on-off contactor would really suffice for me (though I might pull the contactor function from the remote I have so I can have discrete on off and amperage controls).

          Comment


          • #6
            Please excuse my ignorance but isn't it practical to weld these auto parts without using an amptrol. Granted that I work around heavier wall tubing then you would be using but I have never seen a foot or torch control used in the field. Like tigman said, it's all important to have a steady hand and having to fiddle with buttons and wheels just seems like too much to ask. It seems to me that any concerns over not making a perfect bead without heat control would be a safe risk over accidently mishandling the torch and causing undercut or worse.

            Comment


            • #7
              M3P,

              Those welds don't look bad, all things considered. I do have 2 quick suggestions. Make sure that your welds go all the way to the corner of the reinforcing plates, or even just around the corner. Ending the weld before the corner creates a likely cracking/breaking point where the corner meets the weld joint. Also, you will get a lot more strength out of those plates connecting the cage to the unibody if you weld in reinforcing plates on the body and connect to them. All of the load is now on that welded seam where the plate meets the body, and even a small plate to distribute the load would strengthen the connection quite a bit.

              Looks like a fun project.

              JD

              Comment


              • #8
                One suggestion
                WEAR LONG SLEEVES
                BUT ALL ELSE IS PRACTICE

                Comment


                • #9
                  The welds look fine. Taper off heat at the end of welds to keep from getting the "fisheye" though.

                  Also, although you likely got great penetration, it looks like you ran so hot that the puddle was wandering around uncontrollably. Cool down the heat a bit and go a little slower. Granted, these are just tips for appearance. As for strength, the only thing that could really be improved is wrapping the corners as mentioned above.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    more today,

                    Hi,

                    thanks for the tips guys!! I know that I should be wearing leather sleeves but it was sooo hot today. I did cover my legs with a leather blanket....

                    today I did my first ever overhead tig welds!

                    here some pics....

                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

                    my body position

                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

                    my first overhead welds...
                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

                    my second overhead weld
                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

                    overall view of today's project
                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480

                    my vertical welds got better
                    http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/...&nw=640&nh=480


                    I think I done!

                    thanks for the help! I think after all this weird body positions when I get back to sitting at my table my welds should looks awsome!
                    Spectrum 625 Plasma Cutter
                    MillerMatic 130XP
                    Syncrowave 180 SD

                    Visit my site Http://www.bmw1602.com

                    My other toys...
                    68' BMW Vintage racer
                    04' Yamaha YZ250F Supermoto and moto-x

                    Comment

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