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WHICH IS BETTER~FOR CAR REPAIRS: MIG or TIG

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  • Teeps
    replied
    I had a deal I couldn't pass up on a weld pak 3200 HD, which is basically the sp135T, (tapped) and it has worked great for me for the small stuff. I have used it on exhaust tubing, and 1/8th inch steel with a little pre-heat (to bring the steel up to room temp out in the cold Michigan garage). It's had a hard life in a dirty, and cold (winters) garage in MI for the last 4-5 years, and has even survived 4 moves and some banging around without issue.

    The mm251 is a definate step above in capability, and weld quality, but it also cost me more than 8 times as much. Don't forget the spool gun, and big gas cylinders for spray-arc, ouch!!!

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  • Danny
    replied
    These little 120 V units cover such a small voltage range, that spending extra for a variable voltage control seems like a waste of money to me. Personally, If I were looking for a small 120 V unit to run solid wire and fluxcore, I'd just get the Hobart 140. The Lincoln SP 135 would be my next choice.The MM 135 would be last on my list.

    BTW, unless you plan on dragging the unit around by the gun cable, the wire drive assemblies on the three above mentioned units will give you trouble free use for years.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    I HAVE THE MM135 AND LOVE IT ITS A GREAT LIL MIG.
    i would recommend it to any one looking for a MIG in that size. Ive had it about 3 years i think (been a wile and I'm not good at time ) i have had no problems with it, mostly run .025 wire with C-25 gas but when i was building my steel building/shop i ran a lot of flux cored wire threw it and it burned sweet (see pic) it is a bit more $$ than the HH140 but is definitely sturdier built. and its blue it definitely gets my vote.
    Attached Files

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  • Glenn B
    replied
    Welder for Auto Repair

    SCHOONER

    If it were me I would recommend a machine with both a variable wire speed and Voltage. The hobart 140 is not a bad machine for the money-It is better for you then one of those RED heaps in its price range. If you can save a few more bucks I would shoot for a Millermatic 135 The Drive assembly is much beefier.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    wire speed will effect the amps, the faster the wire feed the hotter it is.
    lots of units have a taped setting for volts( usually 4 options) and an adjustable wire speed nob.
    you really should look into some welding books to get you a broader ideal on the hole welding picture. again the miller student pack will cover all the processes and the pros and cons of each.
    it also contains a set of welding calculators that will be a nice quick reference later as well as help you decide what size welder will fit your needs the best.

    Leave a comment:


  • hankj
    replied
    Originally posted by SCHOONER
    Gary Thanks for your imput

    What I meant about the control feeder is there a dial that controls the speed of the wire ?

    I guess from you reply IT'S THE VOLTAGE DIAL TRUE/FALSE
    I'm still learning Gary, Thanks to guys like you bringing my to school.

    GOD BLESS
    Schooner
    SCHOONER,

    Actually, the voltage dial controls the voltage! The wire speed dial controls the wire speed! Pretty straightforward.

    I recommend that you pick up a copy of "Welding Essentials" by Galvery and Marlowe. About $30 at the local bookstore. It will last you as a good reference, and will answer a lot of your questions.

    It's not the time to confuse you with tapped voltage vs. continuously variable voltage units, and wire speed tracking. We'll confuse you with that later, after you get your welder.

    Keep us up to date on your progress. We'll help any way we can.

    Hank

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    the O/A setup is also nice to have but mostly for taking part not putting back together.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    TIG would be nice, but well out of the $$ range he is looking at and again a much larger learning curve.MIG is the most widely used method as it is faster and will allow for no warped parts if done correctly.
    probably the best investment for you right now would be to send Miller $25 and order the student package. it will give you a good understanding of all the welding processes and help you to decide what will suite you best. regardless of witch process you get the student pack will have valuable info for now and as a reference book for the future. you wont find a better reference for less $$ its well Worth the price.
    oh ya and if ya end up getting a miller welder you get a cool free jacket too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Teeps
    replied
    Well everybody has their preference, and I'm a novice....
    Not to muddy up the thread, but my .02

    "Best welder for over-all car repair"

    IMHO, you need to have an acetylene wrench, and you need to have a tig welder (which typically includes a stick function).
    Use tig for thin stuff, and multi-pass for thicker, use tig for all the different alloys you might find in light vehicles. Use stick for the thicker steel on the car. Make sure to follow the machine settings and capactiy for what you need to weld.

    "Best welder for body repair" should be the title of the thread, hehe.

    I will agree that the learning curve will be much shorter on a Mig welder, and that is the right welder to start with (OA practice is not a bad idea though).

    As far as welding in stuff on the chassis, it can be done with mig, make sure your welder (and your skill) are up to the task in regards to metal thickness and fusion.

    I have no experience with body work, especially outer panels that require proper shape and finish, but I have seen alot of people use Tig to control temperature, and feed by hand; Mainly to prevent burn-through and warping.

    Mig is possible, but you can really screw up with Mig, and with a tapped machine sometimes there is never the right setting, and with a variable machine you may wish you just had an electrode, and a filler rod. Hah, if you have practice steel of the same thickness this will help you find the right settings.

    After all the car projects I've had, and alloys I've had to fabricate, I've been wishing for a tig for a long time now, alot to learn with Tig as well, I don't feel like I could weld body panels with either... but floorpans are a different story.

    Metal prep is going to be the most fun part of the project!!!!! Break out your grinders boys!

    Leave a comment:


  • SCHOONER
    replied
    Thank You Sundower ~ George

    Originally posted by Sundown
    Schooner,

    I was involved in the field testing of the HH140 and did own a HH135 at the same time. You really want to get the HH140 as Dan & others suggested, while the upper end of the HH140 isn't much better than the HH135 the lower end is improved enough to make the extra few dollars worthwhile IMHO. As far as reconditioned machines, while they can be a great bargin I prefer to be the first user on most stuff and the Hobart warrenty will protect you for three years while the warrenty on a reconditioned machine is one year I think. Remember you get what you pay for most of the time, when you do make the jump there will be lots of help here and over at Weld Talk on the Hobart site www.hobartwelders.com if you want to have a look over there. Whatever your chioce ends up being, have fun and be safe.
    George, I need ALL THE HELP I can get about which welder will be just right for my application. Thanks to guys like you I'm taking it ALL IN. And then I'll make my decision.

    That Hobart 140 you guys are talking about for my application is loooooking
    better and better all the time.

    THANK AGAIN GEORGE
    GOD BLESS

    Schooner

    Leave a comment:


  • SCHOONER
    replied
    Hi Gary

    Originally posted by Gary
    Hello,
    I agree you would be better off with a Mig welder than a tig. Faster, easier, and will warp those panels less. You may want to save your money a little longer. Hobart offers a Handler 140 which is a nice little model at a fair entry level price. I am not sure what you are refering to when you say control feeder. All Mig welders have a voltage control and a wire feed speed control.
    Gary
    Gary Thanks for your imput

    What I meant about the control feeder is there a dial that controls the speed of the wire ?

    I guess from you reply IT'S THE VOLTAGE DIAL TRUE/FALSE
    I'm still learning Gary, Thanks to guys like you bringing my to school.

    GOD BLESS
    Schooner

    Leave a comment:


  • shadetreewelder
    replied
    Originally posted by SCHOONER
    ..What I meant about the wire feed. I looked at a few welding mach. and some of the lower prices mach. had NO control wire feeder. I know that there's a voltage control on all welders...
    I still wanna know what a, "control wire feeder" is....

    Leave a comment:


  • hankj
    replied
    Originally posted by SCHOONER
    Hey Frank

    Nice choice for me it looks good. Now about that wire feeder deal. From what little I know about Mig Welders. There's a feed coming out the mach. of course.

    QUESTION(S) Does the wire come out Fast/Slow I think it would come out into the handle/stinger at a certain speed (of which I don't know)
    However, I've seen Mig Welders with another dial that CONTROLS the wire coming off the reel.

    So, newies like me can gets better control till he/me gets better and better laying - down a good solid bead

    That's what I meant about the wire feed.

    THANKS FRANK for that GREAT SITE: WWW.TOOLKING.COM
    I'm going into my piggy bank and see how much i got. If I don't have enough I get up earliar than my wife and go into her purse . . . lol

    I sure like that HOBART. But what's with the: FACTORY RECONDITIONED "B"
    was it brought back to the factory 'cause something was WRONG with it

    Hey, if HOBART GAURENTEES THEIR STUFF, WHAT DO I CARE. It seems to be a dorn good $ $ $

    Thanks again Frank
    GOD bless you and your family

    Schooner
    Schooner,

    I didn't see where your wire feed question got an answer, so here's some info.

    All the Hobart line (except the 125EZ) of MIG welders have a wire feed speed control. Essentially, adjusting the wire speed adjusts the amperage - the faster the wire runs into the work, the more current it needs to burn off!

    The idea is to adjust the wire speed until the sound of the arc resembles thae sound of bacon frying in a pan. That nice, steady "sizzle" is what you want to hear! So, you set up a practice piece of the same thickness as your work, run a test bead, adjust the wire speed as needed, run another test bead, etc., until you get the "sound". Then, you're good to go!

    Once you figure it out, it's a snap. You'll never forget that sound once you hear it!

    Hank

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    Dan

    ya i know, but i still want a MM210.

    SCHOONER
    the 3 year warentee is nice but odds are if its guna tank out on ya it will likely happen prity quickly. if another $100 will get you into a new HH140 then i would save up the extra $100 and go for it, even if it makes ya wait a lil longer thats what i did just waited a bit longer saving my pennies till i could get into the MM135 and will the wait was killing me in the end when it showed up it was well werth it and i have no regrets.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sundown
    replied
    Schooner,

    I was involved in the field testing of the HH140 and did own a HH135 at the same time. You really want to get the HH140 as Dan & others suggested, while the upper end of the HH140 isn't much better than the HH135 the lower end is improved enough to make the extra few dollars worthwhile IMHO. As far as reconditioned machines, while they can be a great bargin I prefer to be the first user on most stuff and the Hobart warrenty will protect you for three years while the warrenty on a reconditioned machine is one year I think. Remember you get what you pay for most of the time, when you do make the jump there will be lots of help here and over at Weld Talk on the Hobart site www.hobartwelders.com if you want to have a look over there. Whatever your chioce ends up being, have fun and be safe.

    Leave a comment:

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