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Bandsaw not cutting straight

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  • tigman47
    replied
    Originally posted by millermania
    A few people already mentioned backing off on the spring pressure. Have you played with that setting yet?

    Do you have any aluminum sitting around? If it gets really hot while cutting, then you have a dull blade. If it doesn't get too hot, then you need to back off on the spring pressure so that there's more downforce on the saw.
    I backed off

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  • millermania
    replied
    A few people already mentioned backing off on the spring pressure. Have you played with that setting yet?

    Do you have any aluminum sitting around? If it gets really hot while cutting, then you have a dull blade. If it doesn't get too hot, then you need to back off on the spring pressure so that there's more downforce on the saw.

    Leave a comment:


  • tigman47
    replied
    Originally posted by burninbriar
    (I think the shadows make it look deflected in the photo )
    And the angel.

    Frank everything is set, and it still takes 20 minutes to make one cut if I don't touch it.

    Leave a comment:


  • burninbriar
    replied
    Originally posted by tigman47
    Well I was cutting some sch10 pipe 1.5 od and if I let it cut and leave it takes about 20 minutes so I have to apply force.

    http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3295/manis0067vu.jpg
    Make sure that the guide rollers do not touch the teeth of the blade at any time.
    In the photo, make sure the blade of the square is above the teeth of the saw blade and try to get it as flush as possible without aplying preasure. (I think the shadows make it look deflected in the photo )
    Leave the square in the same position its in now and raize the saw blade to the top of the square blade and lower it again, if a gap shows between the blades at any piont it is out of wack. ( there will be a little gap becouse of the tooth offset , just account for that )

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  • frank865
    replied
    Originally posted by tigman47
    Well I was cutting some sch10 pipe 1.5 od and if I let it cut and leave it takes about 20 minutes so I have to apply force.

    http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3295/manis0067vu.jpg
    In your picture you have the blade deflected by the square.
    You MUST CAREFULLY make all the adjustments that have been suggested.
    You cannot just get it "close enough". If you "force" the blade, you'll dull & or strip teeth off of it. If you'll just do what you've been told, that saw will cut!

    Leave a comment:


  • tigman47
    replied
    Well I was cutting some sch10 pipe 1.5 od and if I let it cut and leave it takes about 20 minutes so I have to apply force.

    http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3295/manis0067vu.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Tailshaft56
    replied
    a blade that gets worn on 1 side will tend to cut in an arc. I some dulled a fairly new blade. I thought I had missadjusted something. Finally replaced the blade in desparation and the problem was resolved.

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  • frank865
    replied
    Originally posted by tigman47
    The blade is pretty new , not even 10 cuts on it. And I made all the adjustments, I reread everything. Maybe the blade got dull that fast.
    ONE! Bad cut, can ruin a blade!! It's a real PITA when it happens

    If you KNOW all the adjustments are RIGHT (NOT just "close enough") try another blade.

    Leave a comment:


  • tigman47
    replied
    The blade is pretty new , not even 10 cuts on it. And I made all the adjustments, I reread everything. Maybe the blade got dull that fast.

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  • frank865
    replied
    Originally posted by tigman47
    Actually I turned the speed down, could this be causing it to be worse ?
    There are speed charts on the web. If you are running the blade speed too fast, or too slow, it won't cut as good as it should. But neither should cause a crooked cut! If you will check all the adjustments that have been suggested in this thread, & make the needed adjustments, that saw should cut square.
    It will never have the speed, & durability of a first-class high-dollar saw, but if it's adjusted correctly & has a good blade, it WILL produce good cuts! Of course, one cut with something out of adjustment can kill a blade & then that blades life is over, it'll never cut straight.

    So, recheck ALL the adjustments, make sure the blade is in good shape (or, if any adjustments have to be redone, replace the blade with another new one) & that saw will produce square cuts for you!
    HTH

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  • tigman47
    replied
    Actually I turned the speed down, could this be causing it to be worse ?

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  • frank865
    replied
    Originally posted by tigman47
    Well the problem got worse
    Then you aren't following the suggestions you've been given!

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  • tigman47
    replied
    Well the problem got worse

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  • tigman47
    replied
    Originally posted by burninbriar
    Did you actually check to see if the teeth are heading in the right dirrection ? If it is inside out they will be backwards. Dont assume that becouse its new its headed the right direction , Its quite common to have to turn a new blade inside out to get the teeth headed right. I've seen a few blades installed backwards before.
    Yes

    linngl I actually messed with the bolt that controls the pivot, I actually tighten it then backed off, but I think I crushed the washer to much.

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  • linngl
    replied
    You might have the problem in the link below. If you have to press down on the saw head and the spring isn't too tight then you have the pivot assembly tightened to much against the plastic bushing on the blade side of the saw. I have a hydraulic cylinder on mine and do not use the spring. It will actually try to cut too fast if the valve is open too much. I have slop in the pivot and if it cuts too fast it will angle the cut like your pictures. I have to set the bleed rate so that it cuts very slow to get a straight cut in square tubing.
    Without the spring attached and the saw in the horizontal position you can wiggle it back and forth if you have slop in the pivot. When the head is coming down it is running square until the last 1/4" - 1/2" of travel then it moves to the right at least 1/8".

    http://www.4crawler.com/Machining/in...andsawPivotFix

    Another site with a different way to fix the slop

    http://www.frugalmachinist.com/bandsaw.html

    Leave a comment:

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