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Tig 4130

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  • #16
    Andy,
    I'd buy that there's two passes there. One of them underneath like a usual joint looks and then that wide cover pass that you can see. However, I can't imagine there'd be three passes there. I think they'd be running into a total waste of LOTS of time doing that. Where would the third pass be?

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    • #17
      I know the topic says TIG 4130 but I've seen some MIG'd 4130 Chassis also. This is a newb question but what would the down fall be? Would crack sooner? Weaker joint?

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      • #18
        you have better heat control with the tig process. (use of pedal or hand control) when you mig it its more or less one temp....if that makes any sence

        dawg

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        • #19
          Originally posted by wrongwayfc
          I know the topic says TIG 4130 but I've seen some MIG'd 4130 Chassis also. This is a newb question but what would the down fall be? Would crack sooner? Weaker joint?

          Pretty much nothing if done correctly. MIG and TIG pretty much attempt to do the same thing in a very similar way. They have different characteristics of course, but done well a MIG'ed 4130 chassis will be plenty strong.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Billet Benny
            Pretty much nothing if done correctly. MIG and TIG pretty much attempt to do the same thing in a very similar way. They have different characteristics of course, but done well a MIG'ed 4130 chassis will be plenty strong.

            either way you weld C.M. it has to be done the right way.....pre or post heat cause if it cools too quickly it could cause cracking ( turn brittle)

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            • #21
              Heres some pics of MIG and TIG welding on 4130 on RB CLASS 1 Car. Last pic is the complete car in action.
              Attached Files

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              • #22
                Thanks everyone for clearing that up for me. So just to make sure I have this right, if you apply to much heat the haz will be a lot wider right? So, for .120-.095 material the haz shouldn't be more then 1/2" or so from the bead? I guess what I am asking is how can you tell if you used to much heat on thinn material .065-.120 ish..? Thanks!

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                • #23
                  www.desertrides.com

                  Thanks to the guys that started this thread, this web site has some of the best examples of car fabrication you'll find. The section on Robbie Gordons truck is real gem. Even the front spindle uprights are a multi-piece fabrication.

                  Thanks
                  Frank
                  (aka Fred) back from the penal league
                  MM200 (antique and still cook'n) - gone
                  Replaced by a MM252
                  Lincoln 160 buzzzzzz box - left to live with a nice youngster
                  Dynasty 300DX - still kickin'
                  Spectrum 625 - ditto
                  Chevalier Knee Mill - Bridgeport clone you idiot. - gone
                  Homebuilt tube bender - with home made dies no less - now co-opted
                  Delta Drill Press & Grinder collection -

                  Needed - a bigger shop to use the stuff https://forum.millerwelds.com/images...es/frown.png?2

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                  • #24
                    Yeah fred, I could take or leave a desert truck but you're right about the pics. The fab is out of control. It must be fun to spend your days TIGing pieces fresh of the CNC w/ perfect fit up. Very cool web cite.

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