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Bandsaw blade help

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  • #16
    Pete,
    Thanks for the advice. I'll make sure to keep the inner guide stationary. Based on the credetials ofthe previous owner (fabbed for Curtis Craft in the 50-60s, chassis raced at Indy...) I think it's set up right. The key word is "think". While I'm comfortable messing with most equipment, I'm taking my time with this saw because it cuts so well now and I've seen too many saws that don't cut well.

    How tight should the guides be on the blade? Right now they are tight (floss the blade between the guides w/ zero clearance.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by wendell

      How tight should the guides be on the blade? Right now they are tight (floss the blade between the guides w/ zero clearance.
      I really have no idea what youre machine calls for , but if you are confident the last blade was installed correctly, since its a zero tollerance, I would loosen the outside rollers, install the blade and retight en the rollers to a zero tollerance again checking constantly to make sure it doesnt bind. There will most likely be some veriance in thickness, especially at the weld. I would not make the rollers tight, just take the slack out at the tightest piont.
      To all who contribute to this board.
      My sincere thanks , Pete.

      Pureox OA
      Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
      Miller Syncrowave 250
      Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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      • #18
        One more thing , you might have to adjust the tracking with the new blade, this is usually done by pitching the angle on one of the drive wheels. Make sure the teeth of the blade are not in the guide rollers. some times the rollers are adjustable for various blade widths.Try to post a picture of it if you can.
        To all who contribute to this board.
        My sincere thanks , Pete.

        Pureox OA
        Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
        Miller Syncrowave 250
        Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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