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Brushed look on stainless steel

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  • Brushed look on stainless steel

    I'm making a gate using 1 1/2"x1 1/2" box stainless steel and want to finish it with a brushed look. The stainless steel box tubing currently has a mill finish on it. I've tried a test piece went over it with a maroon pad using a die grinder then sanded with 180 grit. I not really getting the right look. I can still see the mill finish underneath. It also seems to be too shiny. What am I doing wrong? I want it to look like this. http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah4/IMG_2703.jpg
    Millermatic 251
    Miller Syncrowave 180 sd
    Lincoln Pro-Cut 55
    Oxy/Acetylene

  • #2
    You will probably have to use a flap wheel. Check out www.csunitec.com and look under the surface finishers to get the idea. Still going to be alot of work depending on how much you have to finish. Might be easier to buy the S.S. in a brushed finish and blend in your welds to match. I have built some S.S. handrails using brushed finish tube. That mill finish is hard to get out. Good luck

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    • #3
      I've had some luck with belt sanders and grits in the 40-60 range,
      followed by a very light pass by hand with scotchbrite, being
      careful to maintain a straight line motion.
      Dave P.

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      • #4
        too shiney?

        Maybe you want a glass bead finish.

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        • #5
          I agree with the belt sander, but I use scotch brite belts.

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          • #6
            So to get the mill finish off I have to do a lot of sanding with 40 grit and then go over it with a scotch bright pad in one direction? I don't have to go a little finer grit after 40 before going over withe the scotch brite pad?
            Millermatic 251
            Miller Syncrowave 180 sd
            Lincoln Pro-Cut 55
            Oxy/Acetylene

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            • #7
              Originally posted by bvweld
              Might be easier to buy the S.S. in a brushed finish and blend in your welds to match. Good luck
              Hoooo Boy.... I've been THAT route before...... It's real hard to grind & polish the welds then match the mill's brush polish finish without it being noticable. Takes a LOT of hand work and skill. Also depends GREATLY on what Your cosmetic standards are too. The situation I was involved with was 22 ga. #4 brush polished finish formed panels with notched corners.... and We wanted the corners welded so there were no exposed sharp edges. We tried and tried and never did get what We wanted! I swear a #8 Mirror finish would have been easier!
              Denny
              MillerMatic 185
              HyperTherm 600
              Dynasty 200 DX
              Will-Weld 200A Buzzbox
              O/A torch

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              • #8
                Just try a section and see how it looks, I've done a few gas grill
                stands and tops and the 40 looked ok. The belts wear out real quick
                and I just used the scotchbrite to "soften" up the look a little.
                I saw one of the grills after it was outside for about a year and
                it still looked good.
                I think this is one of those things that you will just have to play
                with till you get the "look" you want.
                Dave P.

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                • #9
                  The RoLoc Bristle Discs work well to match a #4 brush finish.



                  Available in lots of sizes -- I use the one that fits a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Only the green disc (coarse) is needed, unless you want a finer finish.

                  I've heard about people running stainless tubing through a wide belt sander, like those in a commercial woodworking shop. This gives a straight line scratch pattern. Might be worthwhile if you have lots to do.
                  Barry Milton
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by precisionworks
                    The RoLoc Bristle Discs work well to match a #4 brush finish.



                    Available in lots of sizes -- I use the one that fits a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Only the green disc (coarse) is needed, unless you want a finer finish.

                    I've heard about people running stainless tubing through a wide belt sander, like those in a commercial woodworking shop. This gives a straight line scratch pattern. Might be worthwhile if you have lots to do.
                    Would the finish be straight lines though? Wouldn't you end up with swirls marks with those? I want straight brushed finish. I have an angle grinder with roloc pads. I'll try this if it gives a straight line brushed finish.
                    Millermatic 251
                    Miller Syncrowave 180 sd
                    Lincoln Pro-Cut 55
                    Oxy/Acetylene

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                    • #11
                      It won't!
                      Been there, tried that.
                      Dave P

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                      • #12
                        It will give swirl marks. I tried that route first, also tried it with a 5 inch hook and loop pad with scotch brites on a grinder. I have a 1x48 belt grinder that has a scotchbrite belt on it. It will get tubing very close. For sheet i think the way to go is with something like this:

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                        • #13
                          I just bought a belt sander. Gonna try it.
                          Millermatic 251
                          Miller Syncrowave 180 sd
                          Lincoln Pro-Cut 55
                          Oxy/Acetylene

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                          • #14
                            I tried using the belt sander with 50 grit paper. Works pretty good but the finish is not as dull as I want it. If I go over it with scotch brite pads will that give me the dull look?

                            Also, trying to get the mill finish off with the belt sander seems to take long and really eats up the paper. Is there a faster way? I was thinking of using a grinder with a 36-40 grit paper to get the mill finish off and then going over it again with the belt sander with 50 grit. Should that speed things up?
                            Millermatic 251
                            Miller Syncrowave 180 sd
                            Lincoln Pro-Cut 55
                            Oxy/Acetylene

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                            • #15
                              I would not use a grinder. You will get crooked marks that youwill not get out. Have you tryed the flapper wheels ?
                              To all who contribute to this board.
                              My sincere thanks , Pete.

                              Pureox OA
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