Originally posted by CadyRidah
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Brushed look on stainless steel
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Originally posted by joebassI agree with the belt sander, but I use scotch brite belts.
Surface conditioning belts is what they are called. Maroon Medium grit is most common. I find the Brown Coarse grit works well especially on mill finish tubing.
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Here's the finished gate mounted at my brother's new house in Las Vegas.Attached Files
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Originally posted by CadyRidahHere's some pics of the gate I was making. It's almost finished. Just a couple more things and it's done. Thanks for all the help guys.
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate9.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate10.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate11.jpgYou should be very proud.
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Here's some pics of the gate I was making. It's almost finished. Just a couple more things and it's done. Thanks for all the help guys.
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate9.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate10.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate11.jpg
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Originally posted by eal4x4Go to [URL="http://www.feinus.com"] and check out their stainless finishing system. It is a multi-purpose system that will provide a #4 rotary or linear (straight grain) finish out of the box. Accessory sets are available to achieve other finishes up to a #8 polished finishe as well. They also have a pipe finishing system too.
Fein has been manufacturing electric power tools since 1895, are high end and will out last any other power tool you have used.
Remember, you get what you pay for; when it comes to finishing stainless your reputation as a competent finisher is on the line every time your client looks at the finished product.
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stainless finishes
Go to [URL="http://www.feinus.com"] and check out their stainless finishing system. It is a multi-purpose system that will provide a #4 rotary or linear (straight grain) finish out of the box. Accessory sets are available to achieve other finishes up to a #8 polished finishe as well. They also have a pipe finishing system too.
Fein has been manufacturing electric power tools since 1895, are high end and will out last any other power tool you have used.
Remember, you get what you pay for; when it comes to finishing stainless your reputation as a competent finisher is on the line every time your client looks at the finished product.
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I got the pieces back and it came out really good. Well worth the 100 bucks. It was a 100 even to do all 13 pieces. Now what's the best way to match it after welding. Do I grind it down, hand sand with 40-60, and then scotch brite? Also, what's the best way to clean up the welds inside of the 90 degree angles. Here's some pics.
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate5.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate7.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cadyridah5/gate8.jpg
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I think I was having a hard time because I also had to remove the mill finish. I've tried using the red scotch brite pad by hand and on a roloc style pad. I also went over it with a belt sander with 50 grit then over again with the scotch brite pad and it was still too shiny. It looked pretty good but not the finish I needed. I already took it to a metal finishing shop to get it done. It will cost 49 an hour and will take 2 hours to do all 13 pieces. I probably would have paid more than half the cost of that on sandpaper anyway. Plus I save on the time it would have took me. I spent 15 minutes just doing 1 side. I have 6 tubes and 7 solid round bar. That's 24 sides at 15 minutes a side just for the tube. I asked the guy at the shop if a satin finish is possible to get with a belt sander and scotch brite pads and he said it's very hard. It's easier to have it go through a big machine to get the true finish. I need a really dull finish like the picture I posted in the first post. This isn't for me, I'm doing it for my brother. It's not coming out of my pocket. He wants what he wants so he has to pay for it.
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I second what the "Dawg" said, Red scotchbrite on a jitterbug will probably give you the results you want.
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Originally posted by arcdawgyou grind the welds the way you want and use scotchbrite to make the grain once again...... I used a *shaker* at my last shop.....you see them a lot in body shops and hood companies....they go back and forth instead of around
making the *grain*
B
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you grind the welds the way you want and use scotchbrite to make the grain once again...... I used a *shaker* at my last shop.....you see them a lot in body shops and hood companies....they go back and forth instead of around
making the *grain*
B
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