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  • #31
    Chris

    I was wondering the same thing BillC was. What type of plate did you go back with? Regular A-36, 572 gr50, something better? After seeing the failure I kinda wonder what would hold up.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Coalsmoke
      Rv, for a crack that spans no more than half of any one of the sides, gouging the crack, filling with brand new 7018, grind down flush, and then weld a fishplate over top. Remember that a fishplate will have no stressor points and will be positioned so that it best works with the crack's inherent strengthes and weaknesses. Once the crack gets past that point, you need a bit more reinforcement. So, first before removing the paint, check for additional cracks (which will look like black pencil-thin lines, providing the machine hasn't been recently washed, if so, get out the cans of dye checker, remove paint and check) If there are multiple cracks in the same region, remove that whole relative section and replace with new plate. If the machine is going to remain under heavy duty use / abuse, you need to grind the cap of the final pass fluch with the plate edges and add a plate overlapping the entire new first plate including the edges of where the first plate ends. The second plate will have large diameter circles cut out and have half moon radiused ends; weld all exposed edges. Avoid the sharp points and straight edges unless they are on corner joints. If the crack is solitary, gouge the crack, fill with 7018 all the way through (full pen) and do the same as above but do not replace the original plate.
      Sounds like a good regime. The cracked boom we are dealing with at the moment is actaully on a swing grapple skidder. The cracks are just starting-- no more than half an inch long now but they will grow. Swing grapple booms
      are subject to tremendous twisting torques.--and when you swing a log off beside yourself to toss it into the pile. After conferring with the factory,
      the solution which we haven't quite got around to installing yet is to stiffen the boom by adding another full layer on each side of it--pin boss t pin boss. when get up with determination one day soon--we will fix
      the minor cracks (hopefully they are still minor when we get to this) and slap a full cover 5/8"s plate over the outside of the boom.-- both sides, weld it all the way around--- plus plug welding it
      rvannatta
      www.vannattabros.com
      Miller Bobcat 225G
      Miller Big 40 ('79 gasser)<gone>
      Miller 375 Plasma cutter<gone>
      Lincoln Vantage 400
      Lincoln Pro-Cut 80

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      • #33
        We replaced the panels with 1/2" 50 KSI steel. It is the same that was originally used.
        Chris

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        • #34
          Originally posted by cnslmva
          We replaced the panels with 1/2" 50 KSI steel. It is the same that was originally used.
          Thanks Chris... Do you recall the specific ASTM standard for the steel?

          Regarding torsion, I saw that there were bulkhead plates in the arm when you were performing the repair... Did you leave them there?

          Thanks,
          Bill
          "The more I learn about welding the more I find there is to learn..."

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          • #35
            Don't recall the ASTM #'s just put in what the boss buys for us.
            Yes we left the bulkhead plates as they do play an important role in the overall strength and stiffness in the boom. These things are constantly twisting and flexing while in use!
            Chris

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            • #37
              decals and all, NICE
              The one that dies with the most tools wins

              If it's worth having, it's worth working for

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              • #38
                The last one's.
                Attached Files
                Chris

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                • #39
                  What can I say? They want it to look just like new when we're finished with it!
                  Chris

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                  • #40
                    Originally posted by cnslmva
                    What can I say? They want it to look just like new when we're finished with it!
                    Looks great. The bull prick also explains why it broke. That is just like a ripper cat. You get those vibrations rattling through the machine for a while and the pieces just start dropping off of them.
                    rvannatta
                    www.vannattabros.com
                    Miller Bobcat 225G
                    Miller Big 40 ('79 gasser)<gone>
                    Miller 375 Plasma cutter<gone>
                    Lincoln Vantage 400
                    Lincoln Pro-Cut 80

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                    • #41
                      Tell me about it! Those breakers can keep a repair shop in business alone sometimes!
                      Chris

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                      • #42
                        yup, I'll agree to that, especially when people start getting pry happy. While that 160-5 was still in the shop you should have convinced the company to let you put on a catwalk before it ends up looking like an old -1
                        hre

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                        • #43
                          Excellent looking repair..Just like new, as it should be.
                          Jeff

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                          • #44
                            Beautiful! Very nice job. The paint makes it look brand new...luv it!
                            LICENSED ELECTRICIAN
                            BAKERY MECHANIC

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                            • #45
                              Coalsmoke
                              They wanted it to look like new so they can sell it as soon as possible. No upgrades just what it needed to be in a sellable condition. I do agree with you though.

                              When you work for a dealer ( Deere), they want it to look as good as possible if not just as good as new!
                              Chris

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