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  • Swinging a big stick (SMAW discussion)

    Alright, calling out the stick gurus. List your techniques and secrets for SMAW. Such as weave patterns, amperages and DIG settings (if you have it) for different positions, rods, and materials.

    example: 5/32 7018 vertical
    1/8 7018 overhead
    1/8 6011 horizontal

    I've been doing alot of SMAW lately and I wonder sometimes how the sure enough pros do it.
    Zeb's Welding and Machine

  • #2
    SMAW anyone?

    Protraxrptr17,

    Here is a start.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/education...rticles16.html
    http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/PrinciplesSMAW.pdf
    http://www.millerwelds.com/education...ps/stick_tips/
    Larry

    Comment


    • #3
      Welding a step for my truck today and ended up making use of the Trailblazers AC output. I didn't want to open a new box of low-hy rods for just 30" of bead, so I grabbed 6011 (only have it in 1/8") but DCEP was giving me too much penetration, so I tried DCEN, but I was not impressed with the way the rod was laying in EN, so I finally settled quite happily with AC. Lower penetration and decent arc characteristics. First time I've had the opportunity to use AC on the new 302.
      hre

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Protraxrptr17
        Alright, calling out the stick gurus. List your techniques and secrets for SMAW. Such as weave patterns, amperages and DIG settings (if you have it) for different positions, rods, and materials.

        example: 5/32 7018 vertical
        1/8 7018 overhead
        1/8 6011 horizontal

        I've been doing alot of SMAW lately and I wonder sometimes how the sure enough pros do it.
        I run a lot of stick. That's how I got into this nasty business a long time ago. This is an area where watching a good operator is worth hours of reading and practicing on your own. I was fortunate to have a great stick welder with years of experience show me the ropes.

        No matter what position there is no real weave to a 7018 on the root pass. Heat must be turned down a few amps to run horizonal, vertical up, and overhead to keep the puddle from rolling out. 5/32" 7018 is about the largest diameter effective for out of position work with the 7018.

        The 7018 vertical is a beautiful weld before and after slag removal. I hold the electrode almost 90 degrees to the vertical surface with perhaps a very slight downward tilt at the electrode holder pushing the rod tip up just a bit. I don't weave. Strike the arc just ahead of the starting point and bring the rod down into the starting point. Watch the undercut and fill in. When the puddle fills in move upward just a bit and repeat. Think of the rod as a pencil and you as the artist. You are simply drawing your bead. At the end of the rod do not fill in the crater at the end of the weld bead. This gives you a nice tie in point for the next rod. Again strike the arc just above the crater and move back into it to fill and continue upward.

        When the above process is completed the slag will have dripped down looking a lot like the wax from a candle. If your heat is correct, a good solid strike will knock most all the slag off leaving a beatiful finely rippled root pass. For an 1/8" 7018 vertical a 110-120 amps is a good starting point. There are so many variables: your machine, how dry are the rods, the base metal thickness, etc.

        Hope this helps.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hawk

          Sure can't read those tips from a text book. Thanks for sharing those with us that are SMAW challenged.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by HAWK
            I run a lot of stick. That's how I got into this nasty business a long time ago. This is an area where watching a good operator is worth hours of reading and practicing on your own. I was fortunate to have a great stick welder with years of experience show me the ropes.

            No matter what position there is no real weave to a 7018 on the root pass. Heat must be turned down a few amps to run horizonal, vertical up, and overhead to keep the puddle from rolling out. 5/32" 7018 is about the largest diameter effective for out of position work with the 7018.

            The 7018 vetical is a beautiful weld before and after slag removal. I hold the electrode almost 90 degrees to the vertical surface with perhaps a very slight downward tilt at the electrode holder pushing the rod tip up just a bit. I don't weave. Strike the arc just ahead of the starting point and bring the rod down into the starting point. Watch the undercut and fill in. When the puddle fills in move upward just a bit and repeat. Think of the rod as a pencil and you as the artist. You are simply drawing your bead. At the end of the rod do not fill in the crater at the end of the weld bead. This gives you a nice tie in point for the next rod. Again strike the arc just above the crater and move back into it to fill and continue upward.

            When the above process is completed the slag will have dripped down looking a lot like the wax from a candle. If your heat is correct, a good solid strike will knock most all the slag off leaving a beatiful finely rippled root pass. For an 1/8" 7018 vertical a 110-120 amps is a good starting point. There are so many variables: your machine, how dry are the rods, the base metal thickness, etc.

            Hope this helps.
            Hey Hawk,

            What rod would you use for 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 oilfield pipe fence work? This would mainly be saddle cuts for the horizontal and diagonal pieces. If your response is 6011, would a 6010 be a slightly better choice? And which direction would you do your saddle cut welds - from bottom to top or top down? Would 7018 be better since there is a lot of underside and vertical beads? And what bout a 6013? Oh, so many decisions...

            Thanks.
            Attached Files
            Millermatic 35
            Miller TB302G
            Ellis 1800
            Smith & Victor Torches
            Optrel Satellite
            Arcair K4000
            Ingersoll-Rand 175CFM Diesel Air Compressor
            Home Made Welding Trailer

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by HAWK
              I run a lot of stick. That's how I got into this nasty business a long time ago. This is an area where watching a good operator is worth hours of reading and practicing on your own. I was fortunate to have a great stick welder with years of experience show me the ropes.

              No matter what position there is no real weave to a 7018 on the root pass. Heat must be turned down a few amps to run horizonal, vertical up, and overhead to keep the puddle from rolling out. 5/32" 7018 is about the largest diameter effective for out of position work with the 7018.

              The 7018 vetical is a beautiful weld before and after slag removal. I hold the electrode almost 90 degrees to the vertical surface with perhaps a very slight downward tilt at the electrode holder pushing the rod tip up just a bit. I don't weave. Strike the arc just ahead of the starting point and bring the rod down into the starting point. Watch the undercut and fill in. When the puddle fills in move upward just a bit and repeat. Think of the rod as a pencil and you as the artist. You are simply drawing your bead. At the end of the rod do not fill in the crater at the end of the weld bead. This gives you a nice tie in point for the next rod. Again strike the arc just above the crater and move back into it to fill and continue upward.

              When the above process is completed the slag will have dripped down looking a lot like the wax from a candle. If your heat is correct, a good solid strike will knock most all the slag off leaving a beatiful finely rippled root pass. For an 1/8" 7018 vertical a 110-120 amps is a good starting point. There are so many variables: your machine, how dry are the rods, the base metal thickness, etc.

              Hope this helps.
              HAWK, when i try to do vertical up welds with 5/32 7018 it never turns out like i think it should, what kind of an arc length do you maintain?
              like wb5jhy said you just don't get this stuff out of a text book! wouldn't it be great if we all could live next door to HAWK for a while!
              The one that dies with the most tools wins

              If it's worth having, it's worth working for

              Comment


              • #8
                They could be welded with any of these rods, in my case it would be 6010 and 7018, mainly because its the only 2 I stock, makes it easy. Coal, How much time do you have with the 11? We ran them on DCRP all the time. I never found a lot of difference besides the control you get from DC, I think the penetration is more of an operator function. There are some slight differences in power types but it wouldnt be worth it for me to turn the knobs. I took a sheet metal test on a power plant, 3/32 6011 DCRP). On my service truck I run sheet with 6010 rp

                Comment


                • #9
                  I agree with Hawk,,, you can practice some of this till you are blue, way more effecient to learn from someone that knows. I see a lot of confusion on the forums about a couple of these stick rods and it would go away with a couple of lessons. I can see we need a couple of stick seminars. Half a day of school would equel a lot of practice.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by garybdavis
                    Hey Hawk,

                    What rod would you use for 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 oilfield pipe fence work? This would mainly be saddle cuts for the horizontal and diagonal pieces. If your response is 6011, would a 6010 be a slightly better choice? And which direction would you do your saddle cut welds - from bottom to top or top down? Would 7018 be better since there is a lot of underside and vertical beads? And what bout a 6013? Oh, so many decisions...

                    Thanks.
                    Gary,

                    Have you ever run any of these rods before??? For a fence I would just use the one that you are most comfortable with.

                    6010 and 6011 are the same thing. They may run a little different, but they are the same once they are welded. They can be run uphill or down. 7018 should only be run uphill.

                    Regards,
                    Bill
                    "The more I learn about welding the more I find there is to learn..."

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That was a great description, Hawk. I will definitely put that to use. Vertical up is frustrating for me. Sometimes it goes beautiful, and sometimes it's a disaster. The puddle rolls out of the joint and makes a lump from time to time. What DIG setting should I use? Such as 30% or 60%. Seems like 7018 does best on 30%.

                      Coalsmoke, I'll have to try 6011 on AC. I used to do some nice work with my old AC buzzbox and 6011's. Sometimes you gotta get back to basics.
                      Zeb's Welding and Machine

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        What rod would you use for 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 oilfield pipe fence work? This would mainly be saddle cuts for the horizontal and diagonal pieces. If your response is 6011, would a 6010 be a slightly better choice? And which direction would you do your saddle cut welds - from bottom to top or top down? Would 7018 be better since there is a lot of underside and vertical beads? And what bout a 6013? Oh, so many decisions


                        I have built quite a bit of fence using 2 7/8 and 3 1/2 oilfield pipe. My choice of rod is 6010 at least for a first pass. That material may be partially magnetized and will not be clean like new steel. You can always make a second pass with 7018 if neccessary after


                        Byron

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bjfab
                          What rod would you use for 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 oilfield pipe fence work? This would mainly be saddle cuts for the horizontal and diagonal pieces. If your response is 6011, would a 6010 be a slightly better choice? And which direction would you do your saddle cut welds - from bottom to top or top down? Would 7018 be better since there is a lot of underside and vertical beads? And what bout a 6013? Oh, so many decisions


                          I have built quite a bit of fence using 2 7/8 and 3 1/2 oilfield pipe. My choice of rod is 6010 at least for a first pass. That material may be partially magnetized and will not be clean like new steel. You can always make a second pass with 7018 if neccessary after


                          Byron

                          I know the sucker rod I used in my last pipe fence project was magnatized and I could only weld them on the AC setting. Seems to me I remember the difference of a 6011 being for AC/DC and 6010 for DC only.

                          I think I've used just about every type rod/position combination. I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist and my welds are never good enough. I'm always looking for something better - it's a disease I've learned to live with.
                          Millermatic 35
                          Miller TB302G
                          Ellis 1800
                          Smith & Victor Torches
                          Optrel Satellite
                          Arcair K4000
                          Ingersoll-Rand 175CFM Diesel Air Compressor
                          Home Made Welding Trailer

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by bjfab
                            What rod would you use for 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 oilfield pipe fence work? This would mainly be saddle cuts for the horizontal and diagonal pieces. If your response is 6011, would a 6010 be a slightly better choice? And which direction would you do your saddle cut welds - from bottom to top or top down? Would 7018 be better since there is a lot of underside and vertical beads? And what bout a 6013? Oh, so many decisions


                            I have built quite a bit of fence using 2 7/8 and 3 1/2 oilfield pipe. My choice of rod is 6010 at least for a first pass. That material may be partially magnetized and will not be clean like new steel. You can always make a second pass with 7018 if neccessary after


                            Byron
                            20yrs ago i built 5 mi of horse fence, i used 5P for the pipe and 7018 when welding sucker rod.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              sheild arc, you really like lincioln dont you

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