What happened here?

[2JZfan]

That's odd that I can't view the .pdf. It gives an error when I just click on it, and if I save it to my drive first and then open it from adobe reader that fails too.

Before I was net searching for "aluma clean" and it was coming up with some product that I had never seen before. Now that you posted that link, I recognize that stuff, they have that at my welding supply place, I'll grab some.

Thanks!

[HAWK]

The PDF was created with Adobe Acrobat 7.0. I set it to be viewable with "Acrobat Reader" versions 5, 6, and 7. I am not sure why it you cannot view it. I am glad to know you can pick it up locally. I usually order 12 quarts per case. It's just easier that way if you do a lot of Al-especially on DCSP where chemical etching is almost a have too.

[2JZfan]

Ok, so I used a scotchbrite to clean the surface as much as possible, then wiped it down several times with acetone (and the rag showed lots of black). Did the same thing with the filler rod. no more of the "big black booms" this time, but definitely not 100% clean welds... it seemed like the crud was mainly coming from the filler rod... I would see a nice shiny puddle and then as I dipped the rod into it I would see the speckles.

These tests were with the gas turned down a tad to around 17... 'H' 'E' and 'L' were done with the 5356, 'P' '!' and the underline were done with 4043. Couldn't really tell a huge difference between the two alloys.

Any more comments?

Thanks!!

[RadMan]

Do you use a gas lens?

[2JZfan]

yes, I bought the gas lens kit from Tig Depot... I'm using 3/32" tungsten, with the gas lens and the #5 cup... I also have a #6, #7 and #8 cup but I really had no idea how to pick which one would be best. is the #5 too small perhaps?

[RadMan]

My outfit looks like this, I get nice bright welds on aluminum, very little crap in the pool. Argon flow at 15cfm

[2JZfan]

that looks like the opening is about as narrow as mine... do you run with your tungsten sticking out that much? I wasn't sure about that... mine is not quite that far out.

[RadMan]

Yes it sticks out that much and more, but only with a lens, I modified a turkey deep fry basket for a caterer last month, I had the electrode out a good inch to make a weld 'inside' the basket, it worked well.

I still think you touched the pool with the electrode on that second bead, that will cause an explosion of sorts, and make a mess.

[HAWK]

2JZfan,

I tend to agree with Radman that somewhere along the way your tungsten is getting contaminated. Dipping the puddle is typical when learning. Sometimes you do it without realizing it happened. Attached is a "Snag it" JPG file from my earlier PDF. Can you open it?

[2JZfan]

I'm sure you guys are right, since we started these talks I've been regrinding the tungsten often just to make sure I remove anything that it picks up. I can't really "see" anything on the tip, but it's odd because right after I grind it, the first bead will always go real smoothly, then things start getting a little "iffy" on subsequent beads. This would be explained be tungsten contamination for sure. I've had times where the tungsten definitely touched the pool and there was a flash or pop before the arc continued on. But is it possible to get the tungsten close enough where material transfers to it without there being such a noticeable (visible) flash?

Jeff

[RadMan]

I have inadvertently applied filler rod to my tungsten, there is no mistaking what happened, my electrode is now pregnant!


I rely on sound as much as sight when welding, I pretty much know when my electrode is too close to the puddle. I'm not sure if contamination can occur without flash and pop, but I suspect it could.
My tungstens spend almost as much time on the grinder as they do in the torch.

[tigman250]

you mentioned cup size earlier, i prety much use a #7 across the board, i stock them all but 90% of the time i have a #7 on, that way you can kind of use the cup to hold your distance right (on a fillet weld of course)......oh yeah practice helps a ton!

[rb455ho]

No problem, viewing. I believe some diluted phosphoric acid will do the same. Check the ingredients Hawk and let us know.

[Engloid]

If you have postflow, maybe it's not turned up high enough to shield the tungsten as it cools....so it contaminates and then puts that into your next bead.

[Jim2]

Jeff, black at the beginning of a bead indicates to me that heat should be applied more gradual, eventually heating the puddle area hotter than before, prior to advancing. Also, advance slower when welding thereby injecting more heat which will allow the contaminants to flow and flush to the bottom of the weld puddle. This will also smooth out the rope effect and should give you a clean bead which will polish up well.

I see an offset oblong etch area at the beginning of each weld. I'm wondering if your holding your torch at a severe angle to your work. Keep your torch (line of tungsten) canted no more than about 15 to 20 degrees from virtical pointed towards your weld direction.

Use as large a cup as will fit in your work area. A #5 cup is small for general aluminum, I find they can allow a air to infuse when the rod is dipped. 7-8 is better, lens or no lens.

More pictures! It's interesting to see your progress.

Jim