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  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    Thanks

    I really don't think I have to much heat then, I was running 80 to 90 amps, so if I turn the amps up a little the 3/32 filler would melt a lot better.

    sch40 is used to make turbo manifolds, some people use sch10. All personal preferance.

    Just caught that you gap 3/32 also, I butt the edges together so 1/16 filler rod should work.

    Leave a comment:


  • OldSparks
    replied
    90blackcrx

    I understand your using 1 1/4" sch. 40. This would make your wall thickness 0.140". May not be applicable in the auto industry but boiler tube of that thickness would be welded in two passes....full bevel edges...3/32" gap...80-100 amps....3/32" filler. Picture shows 2" sch. 40 (.154" wall) done in two passes. Root pass would just come slightly shallow of flush so as to leave the clean bevel edges as guide lines for cap pass.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    New pics, I got a little concave with the 3/32 bead, less heat more filler correct ? Or just more filler or just less heat ?

    Here is the 3/32 bead on the right, I beveled the pipe first.
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...sch40nn002.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...sch40nn001.jpg

    Here is the bead with 1/16 filler rod, got a little crazy cause my helmet fogs. I also did not bevel this one.

    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...sch40nn004.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...sch40nn003.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    Thank you

    The last pictures were done on sch40 pipe, which is about 11 gauge metal I would say.

    My friend said the pipe looks dirty, which I cleaned the pipe pretty good ( brought it down to bare metal ) so I don't know why it still looks dirty.

    I'm running about 80 to 90 amps, I tried using 1/16 filler rod which feels the best, I did try 3/32 but it does not really melt into the puddle like it should.

    I talked to another guy and he said there is no way I could do it in one pass, so that maybe why its looking flat.

    Any other suggestions ? If I bring the pipe down to bare metal, that should be clean enough right ?

    EDITED: Just took a look at the pictures, the pics make the weld actually look more dirty then it really is. I will try to get some better pictures tonight under shop lighting.

    The more and more I look at other people's projects,
    http://www.psychobike.com/iB_html/up...2-DSCF0496.JPG

    it seems like there beads are sitting flat also. So is it normal for tig beads on pipe to sit flat ? Rather then how they sit with mig ?

    Also right now I can weld up about 90 degrees each time on the pipe, I was told this was good because anything more could cause the pipe to warp. So does 90 sound good ?

    Leave a comment:


  • wb5jhy
    replied
    Your not too far off from what I can see. Just add a little more filler.

    I would use 3/32 or 1/8 filler for that. About 130 amps or thereabouts to start. Be careful to keep the torch perpendicular to the axis of the pipe. If you lay the torch over a little too far then it will draft air into the puddle and spoil the bead. The small diameter pipe will act like an airfoil as shielding gas runs tangent to the surface and air will be drawn in the opposite side.

    Keep up the good practice. Learn from every bead lay down. Your doing great considering the time youv'e had the machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • helocat
    replied
    Originally posted by burninbriar
    The beeds seem awfull wide for the material thickness.
    Agreed!

    CRX, I am learning right now as well. I have about 64 hrs of instruction from the local community collage welding program under my belt for TIG. One thing that is helping me is the rule of: “The bead should not be any wider than two times the thickness of the parent materials.”

    I keep telling myself this rule and make adjustments as needed for this. You have the pros on this board helping you, that’s great! If you can get or go hang with an experienced TIG welder for some practical instruction. Its killing me time wise (business and family) taking the classes but I can see the learning process multiplying for me with the hands on professional instruction. Classes are soooo worth it. On that note, gota run… more stainless tonight. 4:30- 10PM!

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    More pics, they really don't do the weld any justic though. But the bead is still flat

    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...ch40new002.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...ch40new003.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...ch40new004.jpg

    If I bevel the edges, is the weld suppose to be flat ? Maybe its normal and I'm just use to regular butt welds on flat stock.

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    Sch40 is so much easier to work with, but I'm still having problems, with number 1 getting around the pipe, seems like as soon as I have to start going around and down is where I loose all control

    Anyways what would you recommend using on sch40 pipe, I'm using 3/32 tungsten but which size filler rod ?

    I got the ripple effect down but the beads are still flat, I'm not using a lot of heat, so I don't really know where my problem is at.

    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...x/sch40003.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    Originally posted by PUMPKINHEAD
    CRX,
    it must be chilly where you weld, in those last pic.s your weld has its "high beams" on !


    Picked up some 1/16 tungsten and some sch40 mild steel pipe, 1 , 1/4 so I'm going to practice.

    Leave a comment:


  • PUMPKINHEAD
    replied
    CRX,
    it must be chilly where you weld, in those last pic.s your weld has its "high beams" on !

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    Going to get 1/16 tungsten tomorrow, hoping that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • burninbriar
    replied
    I would drop down to 1/16" tungsten , use the 1amp per .001 rule , limit side to side motion and increase travel speed. The beeds seem awfull wide for the material thickness. The tips in the free download tig book are right on the money once you get the technique down.

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    Originally posted by frank865
    Don't know if it'll help your welding...But "Debbie Does Dallas" will show you some new positions!
    lol

    Here are some more pictures from today, would of hoped I would of got better but . I still can't get the flat bead look out of here, I tried using 30 amps which was not cutting it, so I bumped it up to 40.

    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...newelds014.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...newelds013.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...newelds008.jpg
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...newelds010.jpg

    I'm using a 3/32 tungsten, could that be to big for 16 or 18 gauge metal ?

    Leave a comment:


  • frank865
    replied
    Originally posted by 90blackcrx
    So whats a good welding book out there that will show me different postions.

    Don't know if it'll help your welding...But "Debbie Does Dallas" will show you some new positions!

    Leave a comment:


  • 90blackcrx
    replied
    So whats a good welding book out there that will show me different postions.

    Leave a comment:

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