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  • #61
    Originally posted by frank865
    What kind of antifreeze do you intend to use? I've heard DexCool will work OK.
    I'm gonna try it with water first, make sure everything works & no leaks, then I'll add some antifreeze. Would it be worth it to get the "made for cooler" antifreeze, or will a substitute work?
    We recommend using coolant made for water coolers. Not automotive anti-freeze, which has coagulants that are designed to plug small leaks, and could plug up the small passages in your torch. Not good. Definitely worth it to get "made for cooler" stuff.
    Carmen Electrode (Arc-Zone.com)
    CarmenElectrode.com

    powered by... Arc-Zone.com (R) Inc.

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    • #62
      Originally posted by CarmenElectrode
      We recommend using coolant made for water coolers. Not automotive anti-freeze, which has coagulants that are designed to plug small leaks, and could plug up the small passages in your torch. Not good. Definitely worth it to get "made for cooler" stuff.


      Carmen Electrode (great handle btw) I am a licenced motor mechanic, been in the radiator repair business for 20 years, that is first I've heard of coagulants in automotive coolant.


      Couple things to consider, if any soft metals are present in the system use green coloured coolant, the extended life stuff does not protect soft metals (solder), also water is twice as effective conducting heat than coolant.

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      • #63
        Anyone ever use "water wetter" in their tig coolers? I'd think one shot of that would be more than sufficient to handle the needed additive content and also raise the heat conductivity further (via preventing cavitation).

        I'm planning on using distilled water and some anti-corrosion additive. My tank holds a couple gallons - so what if it costs me $2 to fill it for a lack of crud in the system.

        What are you guys using for filters?
        Syncrowave 250DX
        Invison 354MP
        XR Control and 30A

        Airco MED20 feeder
        Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
        Smith O/A rig
        And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

        Comment


        • #64
          Originally posted by Fishy Jim
          Anyone ever use "water wetter" in their tig coolers? I'd think one shot of that would be more than sufficient to handle the needed additive content and also raise the heat conductivity further (via preventing cavitation).

          I'm planning on using distilled water and some anti-corrosion additive. My tank holds a couple gallons - so what if it costs me $2 to fill it for a lack of crud in the system.

          What are you guys using for filters?
          I was thinking of using a inline gasoline filter like they used on VW bugs, I still have some from the old days. The good thing is they have a 3/8" barb fitting on both ends.
          Regards, George

          Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
          Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
          Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

          Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
          Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

          Comment


          • #65
            Originally posted by Sundown
            I was thinking of using a inline gasoline filter like they used on VW bugs, I still have some from the old days. The good thing is they have a 3/8" barb fitting on both ends.
            I don't think a plastic filter would be a good choice @ 50 psi, unless you were planning to put it in the return line?
            I'm going to use the pick-up "sock" from an electric fuel pump (Various sizes & shapes, about $5) on the suction tube.
            Syncrowave 180 SD
            MM185 with 3035 Spool gun
            1971 Roughneck 1e
            Stars-n-Stripes BWE
            Optrel Satellite OSE
            ESAB 875 Plasma Torch
            Lincoln 200SA Diesel
            O/A Set
            Century 250A/C-D/C BuzzBox
            1.5 kVA Spot Welder
            Phoenix Electrode Conditioning Oven

            Professional Auto Mechanic since 1974
            My own shop since 1981

            Cya Frank

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            • #66
              You don't want the filter on the pressure side anyway, you want it filtering what reaches your pump.
              Syncrowave 250DX
              Invison 354MP
              XR Control and 30A

              Airco MED20 feeder
              Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
              Smith O/A rig
              And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

              Comment


              • #67
                Originally posted by Fishy Jim
                Anyone ever use "water wetter" in their tig coolers? I'd think one shot of that would be more than sufficient to handle the needed additive content and also raise the heat conductivity further (via preventing cavitation).

                I'm planning on using distilled water and some anti-corrosion additive. My tank holds a couple gallons - so what if it costs me $2 to fill it for a lack of crud in the system.

                What are you guys using for filters?



                Why would you need to filter it? The cooling system in your car or light truck isn't filtered

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                • #68
                  The passages in the torch are very small, a particulate filter is a good idea! Cheap insurance.

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                  • #69
                    Have you seen the crud electrolysis makes out of "clean" water? Rust and other oxidation is rampant in automotive cooling systems. That's why they use such high ratios of antifreeze - so you can get all those free oxygen molecules tied up with other elements so they don't eat away the metal.

                    Rust is a big problem in sealed systems. A filter (clear is actually good being upstream of the pump) will tell you the state of the systems health. I'm also conjuring up a way to make a flow indicator. I want to know how my torch is doing.
                    Syncrowave 250DX
                    Invison 354MP
                    XR Control and 30A

                    Airco MED20 feeder
                    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                    Smith O/A rig
                    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Fishy Jim
                      Have you seen the crud electrolysis makes out of "clean" water? Rust and other oxidation is rampant in automotive cooling systems. That's why they use such high ratios of antifreeze - so you can get all those free oxygen molecules tied up with other elements so they don't eat away the metal.

                      Rust is a big problem in sealed systems. A filter (clear is actually good being upstream of the pump) will tell you the state of the systems health. I'm also conjuring up a way to make a flow indicator. I want to know how my torch is doing.
                      I've got an extra Proteus paddle-wheel flow indicator (I had to buy 2 to get one for mine). But if I'd thought of it before I bought them, I would have used something like a baby-food jar, drilled 2 holes in the lid, attached a tube about 1/2 as long as the jar is deep into one of them, then attach the lid to the reservoir & hook the water return line to the 1/2 height tube. Should be able to see the return flow inside the upside-down jar & the water would return to the reservoir via the second, larger hole.
                      Syncrowave 180 SD
                      MM185 with 3035 Spool gun
                      1971 Roughneck 1e
                      Stars-n-Stripes BWE
                      Optrel Satellite OSE
                      ESAB 875 Plasma Torch
                      Lincoln 200SA Diesel
                      O/A Set
                      Century 250A/C-D/C BuzzBox
                      1.5 kVA Spot Welder
                      Phoenix Electrode Conditioning Oven

                      Professional Auto Mechanic since 1974
                      My own shop since 1981

                      Cya Frank

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Fishy Jim
                        Have you seen the crud electrolysis makes out of "clean" water? Rust and other oxidation is rampant in automotive cooling systems. That's why they use such high ratios of antifreeze - so you can get all those free oxygen molecules tied up with other elements so they don't eat away the metal.

                        Rust is a big problem in sealed systems. A filter (clear is actually good being upstream of the pump) will tell you the state of the systems health. I'm also conjuring up a way to make a flow indicator. I want to know how my torch is doing.
                        I priced the flow indicator Miller uses on the CM3 at $16.50, not a bad price, I chose to use a 2.5" panel mount psi guage for $2.95 from surplus supply. When the pump is working the needle is rock solid at whatever psi you set it to, If anything disrupts the flow the needle go's nuts at once.

                        Also I thought you guys might be interested in this:
                        Attached Files
                        Regards, George

                        Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
                        Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
                        Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

                        Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
                        Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Originally posted by frank865
                          I don't think a plastic filter would be a good choice @ 50 psi, unless you were planning to put it in the return line?
                          I'm going to use the pick-up "sock" from an electric fuel pump (Various sizes & shapes, about $5) on the suction tube.
                          Acually the filters have metal ends and barbs with glass filter chambers, but I do know the ones you are thinking of, they were more common and also cheaper. But now that you mention the pickup sock I think that it will work better with the pickup tubing I am using. Do you have any idea where I can get one to fit a 3/8" ID tube?

                          BTW, the hard work is done. Now I need to decide on the paint job, find somewhere warm enough to paint it, glue the gasket on the roaster, make two small holddown brackets, and assemble...plumb...& wire the electrics. Hopefully I can have some pictures to post by Monday. Guess I better decide which torch I want & who to order it from.
                          Regards, George

                          Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
                          Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
                          Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

                          Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
                          Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            I forgot to mention that I am going to install a brass drain valve in the rear bottom of the water pan, I plan on draining the system and refilling it often as I am going to use demineralized water with out any additive in it. Also I think I am going to use overcenter clamps to hold the pan to the pump so that I can remove the pan easily (that part just came to me as I was typing, I will have to see if it will work the way I vision it, guess I should have thought of that before I installed a fill tube and screw on cap, now if that works I guess I don't need the drain valve either ).
                            Regards, George

                            Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
                            Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
                            Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

                            Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
                            Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              I've just been soldering the barbs on my condenser - it holds 90 psi without any problems.

                              Frank, email me with info on the flow indicator. I might be willing to relieve you of the extra.

                              I'm also installing a cheapy (99 cents at my surplus place) campbell hausfeld psi gauge. Not sure how it'll like water, but we'll soon find out. lol
                              Syncrowave 250DX
                              Invison 354MP
                              XR Control and 30A

                              Airco MED20 feeder
                              Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                              Smith O/A rig
                              And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Some pics of what I've got thus far:

                                http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...m/AUT_0518.jpg
                                Some small propane bottle I got free. Will be mounted horizontally with bottom tap and top inlet snorkel (so the fill tube will be above everything else in the system).

                                http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...m/AUT_0519.jpg
                                Air conditioning condenser of unknown origin (got it for $20 as surplus - still full of freon no less). Carbonator pump (procon 150gph) in the background.

                                http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...m/AUT_0520.jpg
                                Side view of the three core condenser. 3/8" OD copper cores in AL fins. 1/4" barbs soldered in on both ends.

                                http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...m/AUT_0521.jpg
                                And these are my lovely 220V 35W 6" fans. If you thought your welder fan was loud... lol My hand got cold testing these suckers. $12.50 each (new, surplus), but I got a voucher for $5 free stuff since I spent over $25.

                                I've got all the hose connection issues sorted, just need to get some final parts and the cooler will be complete. I'm not working any more on this till after I get the christmas present projects done. I also will be buying a 220v pump motor, so if anyone needs a 115V motor for their raw pump - email me. I'll send you this one for $5 over actual shipping cost.

                                Last but not least - the money shot. Weldcraft #20 with 25' rubber hoses (I still need to get the collets, lenses, and all that stuff for it).
                                Syncrowave 250DX
                                Invison 354MP
                                XR Control and 30A

                                Airco MED20 feeder
                                Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                                Smith O/A rig
                                And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

                                Comment

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