Dynasty 200dx - Poor bead on aluminum

[Bzyman]

I purchased a dynasty 200dx about a month ago after a year of saving. I debated between this machine and a synco 250 for some time, but went with the dynasty due to the reduced input current requirements and all the extra features. Stainless welding is beautiful with this machine, but in the last few weeks I have started to play with aluminum. I am new to tig but catching on rather quickly. I am quite capable of controling the heat and establishing a good bead. My problem is this - The dynasty will not weld aluminum nearly as pretty as a standard squarewave machine. On 4043 especially, it leaves a grainy appearance in the bead. It is not as obvious when using 5356 filler rod, but it is still there. I contacted a miller welding engineer on this matter and he replied that the advanced squarewave produced by the inverter has an adverse effect on the silicon content of the aluminum and makes it stand on end on top of the bead! Thus 4043, having as substantially higher silicon content looks much worse than 5356. I asked why this is not disclosed in the product description and was advised that since it does not effect the integrity of the weld Miller does not feel it necessary to do so. My concern with this answer is that half the point of aluminum tig welding is the appearance that can be achieved. This is the reason I paid the extra cash for the dynasty. I can pick up the syncowave at work and run a beautiful bead, but the dynasty dirties it up. Does anyone else have this issue? Is the dynasty not a good machine for aluminum?

[Sberry]

Something doesnt sound right,, it should be better on alum, it is way more adjustable. I am not up on alloys but I would want a better explanation from enginering.

[Blown S-10]

put the machine on 60hz and see what happens.

[TJS]

I had a 180sd and was using 4043 filler. I then switched to the 200DX and I did notice a more grain type bead to it. I always wondered why can't I get the creamy smooth bead I got from the 180SD machine. I then started using 5356 filler and Zirctungs. Made a huge difference in the beads. I just did some practice runs last night after I read this post on the 200DX and compared them to a coupon I had laying around when I had my 180SD and they are the same nice smooth and shiny looking beads. I hope this helps.

T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com

[lramberson]

Please post the machine settings, There is something a little out of line probably in your Balance.
I just returned from Chicago and we put a DX 200 to every test we could come up with & the only problem we encourtered was some coupons that were anodized and that was some tough stuff to work with.
Let's get this worked out
Laurence

[Sberry]

I have a 300 synch,,, would be glad to trade if for a dynasty if someone isnt happy with theirs,,, ha

[Bzyman]

I appreciate the feedback from all of you. The machine is actually in the shop getting the High Frequency board replaced and I won't have it back until Friday. This failure did not help the situation any. Has anyone else had this occur? A rep a miller told me that they had a run on some bad components. I shut the machine off in perfect working order one night, and went to fire it up the next and no high freq start!!!!

Anyway, back to the aluminum setup

I have tried both 2% Thoriated and 1.5% lanthanated and noticed very little difference. Both sharpened to a point and then slightly bluned to remove the tip (3/32)

-pure argon @ 20CFH
-Balance control between 68 and 72 EN ( I usually keep it at 70, but have moved it around out of desperation)
-current @ 115 - 125 amps ( my coupons are 1/8" aluminum)
- Pulse off
- Frequency set at about 120 hz. I have tried above and below this but it seem to be best in this area
- 5356 filler rod (3/32). I have 4043, but it looks terrible as I mentioned

I have attempted both running beads on top of the material as well as fillet welds. If I am just fusing materials the problem does not seem to occur.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Paul

TJS - The new beads you ran with the 200 - Were you able to do it with the 4043 filler and get the same appearance as the 180 SD, or did you use 5356?

[TJS]

Yes I got them pretty close. I like the 5356 filler better though, I don't know why it just feels better.
Thanks.
T.J.

[Wheat]

Mine does the same thing. When I first bought it the welds were shiny, but lately they get a grainy appearance also. Same specs as bzyman. Have not yet used the pulse feature. 4043 as filler. Proper cleaning techniques. Have not used it since I swapped out the argon bottle. Can't blame the gas on this one. Worked great when I first bought it. Thought is was the weldor at first......It might just be the welder.....

[Raven]

The machine is actually in the shop getting the High Frequency board replaced and I won't have it back until Friday. This failure did not help the situation any. Has anyone else had this occur?

That is interesting, I just had the same thing happen to my Dynasty 200 also. It was working fine one day, then no high freq starts the next day. Lift ark works fine, just no high freq. Called Miller and they said to take it into the shop for a replacement of the pc board. I have not yet had a chance to take it into the shop yet, but hope to do so this week.

[Protraxrptr17]

I have been complaining of the exact same problem. I switched to 5356 and it helped but the problem still comes back every once in a while. Mine also seemed to work better right after I brought it home. Somebody please tell me it is not something I'm going to have to live with.

[ASKANDY]

I believe we had some caps from a vendor that were the wrong value and causing some of these failures. I too just had one at Roush go down last week from the same thing. At least they cought it before too many got out.

Andy

[Protraxrptr17]

Andy, does the problem with the capacitors affect the 300DX also? I was just thinking that sometimes my machine seems like it has trouble starting. It usually happens when I have been running long beads at high amperages.

[TJS]

Andy, does the problem with the capacitors affect the 300DX also? I was just thinking that sometimes my machine seems like it has trouble starting. It usually happens when I have been running long beads at high amperages.

I have this same problem on my 200DX. I posted this a while back. I was told to set the start amps a little higher, it is in the book how to do this. This seemed to help a little, but when doing thinner material you get too much heat on start and it does not seem right. Andy, do you have serial number range that these machines have effected caps on the 200's.
Thanks.
T.J.

[lramberson]

Set the Hertz at 55 - 60, Balance to 65 to 68 & you will get a weld similar to what you want.
My feeling is your base material & or filler material is not of the highest quality. 4043 Alcotec is my favorite.
Good luck
Laurence