Mig Weld Motor Mounts

[Aggieclimber]

I am just slightly more experienced at welding than a novice. I can make the steel stick together and I've never had a weld break loose. However, I have undertaken a restomod project of a 1974 Scout II. I plan to swap out the dead motor for an LS. I've been working with an outfit that fabricates well made and strong parts for the swap. Having never welded motor mounts to a frame, I am trying to gain as much wisdom as I can before I start puddling beads. I have a 211 millermatic. Would anyone be interested in giving me reliable information on how to assure that my welds penetrate deep enough? I don't want to assume that just because the metal sticks together, the welds will automatically hold up under the kinds of pressure of your vehicle can put on a weld. Generally, I have referred to the metal thickness chart on the inside of the welder door to determine wire speed and power. Maybe some of you have experienced in this area and would be willing to lend your two cents worth. Thanks in advance.

[MAC702]

The machine is capable of it, IN VERY EXPERIENCED HANDS. It will be very easy to get a "good looking" weld that doesn't penetrate nearly as much as it can. You need experience to manipulate the puddle as you need. Joint preparation is also important.

[MMW]

Yes machine can do it. I assume you are using bare wire with 75/25 gas? Probably .030 wire size? Your best bet for success is to get like sized material to practice with. Set up numerous coupons in positions and joint configurations like the mounts you will be welding in. Then try to break them apart. Once you are satisfied then weld on the motor mounts. No magic in the door chart, it's a guide to start with and you may adjust slightly to your liking.

[ryanjones2150]

Very clean, very good fit up, avoid mig welding downhill unless you really know what you’re looking at. Like Mac said, it’s easy to get good looking welds that are actually cold lap, especially if you run downhill.