$125 333a/bp

[Bushytails]

You need to use the taped-in wiring diagram to set the links, NOT the manual.

The pic labeled 1 is the correct configuration for 230V, but missing the third link that goes on the smaller screws. Someone may have re-arranged the wires to skip needing the third link - it looks like someone rewired it from 460V to 230V. If this has been done, you should check they did it correctly - it looks iffy to me, and there looks like there's a cut wire and a possibly overheated crimp terminal.

The pic labeled 2 is wrong. Do not power it up like that.

[Weld dr]

330ABP

[stickermigtigger]

You need to use the taped-in wiring diagram to set the links, NOT the manual.

The pic labeled 1 is the correct configuration for 230V, but missing the third link that goes on the smaller screws. Someone may have re-arranged the wires to skip needing the third link - it looks like someone rewired it from 460V to 230V. If this has been done, you should check they did it correctly - it looks iffy to me, and there looks like there's a cut wire and a possibly overheated crimp terminal.

Interesting. I see what you mean. I'll revert it to the taped in diagram as it was and check the other connections you mentioned. I found other configurations and they all had a jumper across some two of the lower terminals. I was curious about that.

PITA if I can't trust the manual. grrrr

[stickermigtigger]

You need to use the taped-in wiring diagram to set the links, NOT the manual.

it looks iffy to me, and there looks like there's a cut wire and a possibly overheated crimp terminal.

The lower terminals are wired for 230. I agree it looked like two separate wires and the yellow crimp connector did give it a cutoff appearance. Turns out the 'two' wires are just one that constitute a jumper. :-) See pic.

[Bushytails]

Think of the 575V option as a custom request, and it'll make more sense. They used different transformers to accommodate it, and taped the changes from the stock machine to the door. The machine should be the same as the manual in every other way. I don't know how many 575V machines they sold - googling finds evidence of at least three... but apparently not enough to add even a footnote to the manual, for any year, about them existing.

I wasn't sure if that was a jumper, or if someone had bypassed the links and was feeding power to them from somewhere else... always better to investigate when you see something non-standard rather than assume things were done correctly. I can't tell you how much time I've spent fixing things where the primary issue was that someone else worked on it!

[stickermigtigger]

I wasn't sure if that was a jumper, or if someone had bypassed the links and was feeding power to them from somewhere else... always better to investigate when you see something non-standard rather than assume things were done correctly. I can't tell you how much time I've spent fixing things where the primary issue was that someone else worked on it!

I blew the unit out with compressed air and found the missing jumper. Now it looks stock. :-)

[stickermigtigger]

On the screw in fuse.....it’s not the same as an old house wiring “slow blow” fuse. You need the right fuse. It should be yellow. If it’s a house hold fuse, let me know and I’ll send you a picture of what the right fuse should be. If you can’t find one, I have some spares and I’ll send you one.

There's a Type T fuse in there. Blue. Is there some other spec besides being yellow?

[Sberry]

I used a couple and been around a couple. Neighbor has one with literally 1000s of hrs on it tig alum pipe. They do it so much that they dont even used pedal and even melt some casting edge off to reduce filler, they are not art work,,, or dont need to be so you can really fly. Last time I was in their shop they wanted a fitting welded and It took me a minute to figure out why the pedal wasnt there and thats cause they wernt using it. Just hang on

[Sberry]

These get wired to the wall a lot of ways, most of them work but there is a correct way if you are interested. If I really used mine would actually wire it correct,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ha When they are off and breaker is off it doesnt matter so much.

[stickermigtigger]

These get wired to the wall a lot of ways, most of them work but there is a correct way if you are interested. If I really used mine would actually wire it correct,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ha When they are off and breaker is off it doesnt matter so much.

I'll bite. :-) What's the correct way.

Right now it has a 6-50P plug and 6-50R with cable.

[stickermigtigger]

These get wired to the wall a lot of ways, most of them work but there is a correct way if you are interested. If I really used mine would actually wire it correct,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ha When they are off and breaker is off it doesnt matter so much.

Private Messages cu stranded cable

[Helios]

If that foot pedal works at all it’s worth more than you paid for the whole machine.

Yeah, like triple what he paid for the whole rig, last time I checked!

[stickermigtigger]

These get wired to the wall a lot of ways, most of them work but there is a correct way if you are interested. If I really used mine would actually wire it correct,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ha When they are off and breaker is off it doesnt matter so much.

The manual is confusing. I'd heard before that these machines needed a 125A disconnect for full capability. The manual states the use of Forum copper for 230 v operation. Forum has a max amperage of 130 depending on sheath capability. THHN and other high temp sheaths in conduit will accommodate 130A but most common cables would max at 90 or 115 amps. The manual table says to fuse Forum to 175 amps????? What?!?!?

If wired to full capacity portability around the shop is out the window. Probably have to order 100' SMAW leads. LOL I don't think they make wc tig that long.

[Sberry]

I gonjna look for giggles. It will run from that plug and cord but,,,

[Sberry]

I had a call,,, ok the 175 breaker is wide open screaming its guts out. They might be specialty, personally might use a 125 and number 2. If a guy is looking at the manual note the wiring method,,, no plug, wired to a disconnect. This could be the breaker if its local to the machine. Use a piece of flex conduit, 2 ungrounded conductors and a number 6 ground conductor.
Reason for this is,,,, (it gets smeared in other threads) that circuits over 100A require 6 ground. This is why circuits over 60 not wired 6 cable, the conductors are fine at higher current short cycles but number 10 ground wire that comes in the cable is limited to 60A.
When a guy uses a 6/50 its limited to the use of a 50 breaker. Its not that the outlet wont handle it but its a code issue, the outlet says,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, this is a circuit with breaker current limited to 50A for smaller machines that come with factory cord and plug.
If this doesnt make sense ask again,,, there are others, Mac for one lic master sparky.