Burning through my Stock and not sure why

[Chadwic]

So, I've done welding with wire feed and some super beginner TIG, but this is my first time working with stick welding. The welder I'm working with is the Bobcat 225, and as far as I can tell I have it on the right settings, but it's still burning through my stock on projects unless I'm ridiculously careful. The settings are as pictured below.

I was welding 1/8 angle iron to 1/8 hollow bar stock, making some ladder hangers for the inside of my enclosed tool trailer. Electrode was 3/16" 6011, and unless I struck it and then held it ridiculously far away, where I couldn't build a good puddle, it was melting my stock. I eventually got good at filling in where I melted, but it's not neat, clean, or good enough for anything more substantial than a ladder rack.

Most of the tutorials I'm finding are saying to adjust your voltage to certain number amounts, but this welder has a 1-10 selector, and not an actual voltage number. None of the tutorials I've found are working off a welder generator like this, and seem to have more control options.

Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to be repairing a trailer and doing some modifications on a tractor, but don't want to be burning through those more expensive replacements until I figure out what's going on with my bar stock.

[Metjunkie]

The suggested amp range for a 3/16" 6011 rod is 140-215 amps. I would get some 3/32 or 1/8 6011 rods and dial it down some.

[Bushytails]

I'm pretty awful at stick myself, so I'll just point out that when stick welding, you're adjusting the current, not the voltage. The 1-10 on the fine adjust is roughly between the low and high currents on the range select switch, so that a 1 is about 40A, and a 10 is about 110A, on the setting you have it on, which would make a 7 about 85A. But, these are very approximate numbers, and depend on engine RPM and other factors. That's why there aren't exact markings on the knob. Try turning it down and see if it welds better - it sounds like you have it too hot for your setup.

A 3/16 rod sounds awfully thick for 1/8 steel. I'd think you'd want a 3/32 rod, or 1/8 at most. Also, 6011 is usually ran AC, while you're set for DC. DC might be giving you a bit more penetration relative to metal deposition.

Of course, I've found that the usual problem with my stick welds is my stick welding... Practice is often needed to get good results!

[MMW]

3/16 rods are to big. Hoping it's just a typo and you are using 3/32 dia. I would try to find some 1/4" thick material to practice on because it will be more forgiving while learning. If you are doing butt welds with any gaps it will burn through quickly, joints must be tight, lap joints are easier. Agree with above, 6011 is an ac rod. Pick up some 3/32 7018 rods and try them at your setting or maybe turned down to 6. You will need to practice and try settings up and down as each machine is slightly different.

[ryanjones2150]

I agree, you’re using a rod much too large for your intended purpose. 1/8 6010 or 6011 just as a tacking rod and 3/32 7018 for the welds. You’ll use a lot less current too.

[Chadwic]

I'm pretty awful at stick myself, so I'll just point out that when stick welding, you're adjusting the current, not the voltage. The 1-10 on the fine adjust is roughly between the low and high currents on the range select switch, so that a 1 is about 40A, and a 10 is about 110A, on the setting you have it on, which would make a 7 about 85A. But, these are very approximate numbers, and depend on engine RPM and other factors. That's why there aren't exact markings on the knob. Try turning it down and see if it welds better - it sounds like you have it too hot for your setup.

A 3/16 rod sounds awfully thick for 1/8 steel. I'd think you'd want a 3/32 rod, or 1/8 at most. Also, 6011 is usually ran AC, while you're set for DC. DC might be giving you a bit more penetration relative to metal deposition.

Of course, I've found that the usual problem with my stick welds is my stick welding... Practice is often needed to get good results!

Ah, yes the stick size was a typo. I was using a 3/32 and burning through it, even when dialing the machine down past the "welding" settings on the right hand dial.

That's good to know that 6011 is usually run AC though, I'll try that out in the future.

[Chadwic]

I agree, you’re using a rod much too large for your intended purpose. 1/8 6010 or 6011 just as a tacking rod and 3/32 7018 for the welds. You’ll use a lot less current too.

Thanks for the info. The rod size was a typo, but I'll definitely look into 7018 for future projects.

[Chadwic]

3/16 rods are to big. Hoping it's just a typo and you are using 3/32 dia. I would try to find some 1/4" thick material to practice on because it will be more forgiving while learning. If you are doing butt welds with any gaps it will burn through quickly, joints must be tight, lap joints are easier. Agree with above, 6011 is an ac rod. Pick up some 3/32 7018 rods and try them at your setting or maybe turned down to 6. You will need to practice and try settings up and down as each machine is slightly different.

Ok, good to know joints have to be tighter with stick - I thought it was just my settings. I cut this project with an angle grinder, but have since picked up a new dewalt metal chop saw since this was such a PITA. That will hopefully make a huge difference.

[jjohn76]

You can also try on 6011 DCEN to get less penetration/burn through if DCEP or AC is still too much power.