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  • tackit
    replied
    The SIL stopped by the shop and took a picture of our setup and we already changed it out, but haven't tried it out yet, it's been years since we used it now that we have the we HF Cabinet.

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  • tackit
    replied
    I might try building one, I have a union holding the ceramic nozzle in I can convert to a reducer and nipple. I bought my hose and nozzle from Texas Blasters. https://texasblaster.com/

    It's a nice setup, but my system doesn't work with theirs evidently. I wonder if a drill bit that drills through ceramic tile would also drill through a ceramic nozzle? You would think they would.
    Last edited by tackit; 08-12-2021, 12:37 PM.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    I got 1/4 xxh pipe nipples 6 inches long and cut them in half for nozzles.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    I get sand for 20 a ton. I figured maybe you had valve but I couldn't see it. I have never used beads. There is a sand plant near me, graded.

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  • tackit
    replied
    Before the HF sand blasting cabinet, that's what we used. It's good for small jobs like rims, I used to put my face through a Tee shirt's neck hole to keep the media from getting in my hair and in my ears. I used safety glasses and a face shield for face protection and welding gloves. It worked OK for cleaning rims I wanted to paint.

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  • Bushytails
    replied
    I only have one of those little handheld sandblasters. I don't have a shop, and thus nowhere to put big things...

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  • tackit
    replied
    I copied a Marco 150 sand blaster as best I could.

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  • tackit
    replied
    Carry I have a ball valve at the bottom of the tank to regulate the amount of media coming out of the tank, I need a bigger nozzle hole like you suggested, mine is 3/32, I was thinking 3/16 or even 1/4", I experimented with the ball valve and nothing I tried worked, it always plugged the nozzle. It might work if I used glass bead, but that stuff is pretty expensive and not practical for removing rust.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    Not sure if you can see the bottom valve but its there. Tuning saves a lot of sand and can regulate impact. Take the valve off the end of the hose. That stops flow. If you use that close sand at bottom, turn on air, let pressure build and turn it on then turn on sand. I wear heavy welder glove and simply hold thump over till the pressure builds most of the way. What wears all that deadman stuff out is stopping with abrasive in the line. When shutting down I shut sand off, should extend a linkage,,, ha but shut off sand and let line clear then shut down air to the unit.
    5 hp should use 3/16 or so noz. Put a screen in your funnel.
    Last edited by Sberry; 08-10-2021, 10:40 AM.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	616511 The air in the tank is fundamentally there to keep it slightly above the pressure of the blast line. Its slightly hard to see small details but looks like we may have the same noz with reducing coupling to the hose? No other parts. Doesnt need it all like the pic of the siphon version I post above.
    But,,, pic of the wye at tghe bottom, I used a common T but you absolutely need a valve to regulate the sand flow if there is not one there, above it from the tank. I dont think its really upour noz plugging, I think its plugging all the way. Its slightly a combination adjustment, not much air flows thru the tank, sane it pretty much in the way but the valve on bottom to regulate and the valve coming down to regulate air velocity. You need a mix of sand and air and not solid sand.
    Maybe you know all this. if so its for others trying this same thing.
    Last edited by Sberry; 08-10-2021, 10:26 AM.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    Those are about as close as I have, they were for a slightlty different job but may use some of the same parts. I didnt want to jump on youir thread right out the gate but I have done this a couple times. I let Dons steel rack thread run a while for I hijacked it,,, ha I jump on other forums occasionally with blast and paint and paint booth setup and do it with the same instinct as electric grounding etc where I study the fundamental principle a bit. These other guys follow moree details of design but I fiddle with it a little till it works but it has to align with a couple fundamentals.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	616514 Click image for larger version  Name:	image_42269.jpg Views:	5 Size:	30.9 KB ID:	616504 I should get some pics of the noz.
    Last edited by Sberry; 08-10-2021, 10:58 AM.

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  • tackit
    replied
    Carry the blaster plugs up so fast I never have run it long enough to find out, I have to build a new nozzle system for it, but never have since I have the HF blasting cabinet which works pretty good.

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  • Sberry
    replied
    I did the same from 100#. I did the top a bit different and I see you added an air receiver. I made nozzles and didnt use a deadman
    does the receiver snatch up a little water?

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  • Bushytails
    replied
    I mean, on the Welding Projects sub-forum here on the miller forums. https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/welding-projects

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