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  • Spectrum 2050

    I don't usually post and ask questions unless I've tried to search and find answers first, but I'm at a loss right now....

    I have a Spectrum 2050 Plasma Cutter and have always wondered why there's no chart in the manual for suggested amp settings based on material or thickness. I'm pretty much a novice who got this piece of equipment as a part of a large purchase of machine shop stuff, so to many of you this might seem like duh question because you already know, but any guidance would be helpful. I've found charts for other brands just not Miller. Thanks y'all.

  • #2
    Usually when we use plasma cutters we run them wide open. Adjust the travel speed for the desired curf.
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    Neverlast 100 amp plasma with Hyper Duramax torch
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    Just a hilljack in the woods with fancy welding equipment
    and a pet Raccoon.

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    • #3
      Yup. Turn that knob all the way to the right and let the dog eat. Thinner material you can fly through, thicker material you creep through.

      Buy extra consumables because they matter and will fail on you at the worst possible moment. It also effects the quality of the cut.

      Dry air helps prolong the life of the tips.

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      • #4
        What they said. You only turn them down if you aren't fast enough to keep up on thin stuff.

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        • #5
          Great advice y'all. I let that big dog eat yesterday practicing on some old lawn mower blades and was pretty happy. I clamped a guide plate on and let the drag tip slide and actually really impressed myself with the quality of the cuts. I'm starting a smoker projects soon and trying to get some of my skills sharpened. Interesting enough (for me).... two diff thicknesses of guide plates, one held the tip about 3/32 off the mower blade, and the other one the drag tip was pretty much touching the blade, and the "touching" method resulted in a much nicer curf and considerably less crap (slag?) on the back side. Always a great feeling to experiment and come out feeling like I improved rather than being more frustrated.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by MAC702 View Post
            What they said. You only turn them down if you aren't fast enough to keep up on thin stuff.
            ..... what would be an indication that I'm not moving fast enough? unfortunately I'm not even sure what to be looking for

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ewag316 View Post

              ..... what would be an indication that I'm not moving fast enough? unfortunately I'm not even sure what to be looking for
              Excessive dross. Butchered up face on the curf. Too slow will leave gouges in the face of the cut just like too slow of travel or too much oxygen pressure does when oxyfuel cutting.
              Dynasty 400 Wireless
              Coolmate 3.5
              Synchrowave 350LX loaded with Sequencer on the cooler
              XMT350 CC/CV
              S74DX Feeder
              Optima Pulse Pendant
              WC24
              30A spoolgun
              Neverlast 100 amp plasma with Hyper Duramax torch
              Avortec 280 mig
              Harris Old school 2 stage Oxy/Ace
              Victor flow meters
              Flametech Duel flowmeter
              Just a hilljack in the woods with fancy welding equipment
              and a pet Raccoon.

              Comment


              • #8
                If you do not have a contact drag sheild on your torch nozzle do not drag the tip of the torch on the material. You want 3/32"- 1/8" standoff from the work piece to the actual nozzle.
                Dynasty 400 Wireless
                Coolmate 3.5
                Synchrowave 350LX loaded with Sequencer on the cooler
                XMT350 CC/CV
                S74DX Feeder
                Optima Pulse Pendant
                WC24
                30A spoolgun
                Neverlast 100 amp plasma with Hyper Duramax torch
                Avortec 280 mig
                Harris Old school 2 stage Oxy/Ace
                Victor flow meters
                Flametech Duel flowmeter
                Just a hilljack in the woods with fancy welding equipment
                and a pet Raccoon.

                Comment


                • #9
                  The one with the red circle is the drag type shield. The other is the nozzle that actually has the hole that the plasma stream comes out of. If that hole becomes elongated, enlarged or deformed replace it. The plasma stream comes out of the nozzle in a circular vortex. You will figure out the direction you need to cut. You won't notice any difference on anything less than 1/8" but when you get into the thicker materials one of the curf faces will be beveled. I always try to put the beveled face on my drop.
                  Dynasty 400 Wireless
                  Coolmate 3.5
                  Synchrowave 350LX loaded with Sequencer on the cooler
                  XMT350 CC/CV
                  S74DX Feeder
                  Optima Pulse Pendant
                  WC24
                  30A spoolgun
                  Neverlast 100 amp plasma with Hyper Duramax torch
                  Avortec 280 mig
                  Harris Old school 2 stage Oxy/Ace
                  Victor flow meters
                  Flametech Duel flowmeter
                  Just a hilljack in the woods with fancy welding equipment
                  and a pet Raccoon.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Awesome, thanks. I'm using the one you circled and it seems to work pretty dang good actually touching the metal when I cut. Of course I ran into trouble when I tried to drag it across some boogered up part of the surface, but that's MY fault. Next time I did it, I hit those spots with a grinder to smooth them out and it went beautifully.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ewag316 View Post
                      Awesome, thanks. I'm using the one you circled and it seems to work pretty dang good actually touching the metal when I cut. Of course I ran into trouble when I tried to drag it across some boogered up part of the surface, but that's MY fault. Next time I did it, I hit those spots with a grinder to smooth them out and it went beautifully.
                      If you are using the circled one then you are fine to touch and drag
                      Dynasty 400 Wireless
                      Coolmate 3.5
                      Synchrowave 350LX loaded with Sequencer on the cooler
                      XMT350 CC/CV
                      S74DX Feeder
                      Optima Pulse Pendant
                      WC24
                      30A spoolgun
                      Neverlast 100 amp plasma with Hyper Duramax torch
                      Avortec 280 mig
                      Harris Old school 2 stage Oxy/Ace
                      Victor flow meters
                      Flametech Duel flowmeter
                      Just a hilljack in the woods with fancy welding equipment
                      and a pet Raccoon.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You can hear it if you’re moving too fast or slow. You want a steady removal of material. It’ll take you some practice, but you’ll figure out what sounds right. Obviously the thicker the metal the slower the drag. Something that helps me is to consciously remind myself to relax the death grip I have on the plasma torch. You don’t need to strangle it, just hold it. That’ll help you get a smoother drag and cut. And don’t disable the safety switch, doing so can result in significant burns to your body....ask me how I know....

                        On your smoker, think ahead on what you’re going to cut. Plate metal will warp, so will your door cutouts if you’re using pipe. Some cuts are just better made with a slitting disc. Also, chipping the dross off while it’s still hot makes it come off easier. Grinding that cut surface off will also relax the metal. You’ll be surprised how much distortion just grinding that plasma cut surface off will relieve.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                          You can hear it if you’re moving too fast or slow. You want a steady removal of material. It’ll take you some practice, but you’ll figure out what sounds right. Obviously the thicker the metal the slower the drag. Something that helps me is to consciously remind myself to relax the death grip I have on the plasma torch. You don’t need to strangle it, just hold it. That’ll help you get a smoother drag and cut. And don’t disable the safety switch, doing so can result in significant burns to your body....ask me how I know....

                          On your smoker, think ahead on what you’re going to cut. Plate metal will warp, so will your door cutouts if you’re using pipe. Some cuts are just better made with a slitting disc. Also, chipping the dross off while it’s still hot makes it come off easier. Grinding that cut surface off will also relax the metal. You’ll be surprised how much distortion just grinding that plasma cut surface off will relieve.
                          How do you know? Just kidding.... good advice. I am worried about warping when I cut the doors, it's a propane tank (already safe and ready to cut). I've watched about 15 videos of suggestions on how to do that without causing TOO MUCH disortion. Hopefully I'll do OK. Thanks for the suggestion on "no death grip".... last time I was cutting I felt like it was my job to crush the dang handle while I was using it LOL

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I’d use a zip disc on a grinder to the doors out. Zero distortion that way. The last smoker was 1/4” wall pipe and I still used a zip disc. Learning about relieving stress will also relate to other projects, it’s very useful knowledge. Some guys are really good and can suggest weld sequence to reduce it. I’m not nearly that good.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Cut out the part of the door where the hinges are going to go first. Then, weld on the hinges. Then, cut out the rest of the door. Perfect alignment without having to screw around.

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