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Needing Part number for blown Varistor on Miller 203 655 PC Board

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  • Needing Part number for blown Varistor on Miller 203 655 PC Board

    I have a Hobart 10000 that has a blown varistor on the PC board. The welder currently welds but want to replace the varistor. I think someone tried to jump the welder that caused the varistor to blow.

    Any help is much appreciated.


  • #2
    Wish I could help, but I've never seen one of those machines inside.

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    • #3
      You have more problems than just that varistor. Trust me on this, it's been tried and failed many times. Sending the board off for repair has also been tried many times and failed. I've had experience with at least 100 Champion 1000's and 99% of the time the board blows because someone jumped it off with a battery and pulled the cables away when it started. 99 out of 100. Miller still makes this board but for how long I can't say. They have obsoleted the previous model PC so my suggestion is to put an order in for the board and hope they build them. As of the moment they are backordered. Cost is in the $550.00 range.

      PS. I see you say it still welds but I bet if you check your 100v plugs and your studs the OCV is sky high and you have about 186v on the 110v recpt. It won't weld for long.
      Last edited by 1997CST; 01-14-2021, 06:32 AM.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 1997CST View Post
        You have more problems than just that varistor. Trust me on this, it's been tried and failed many times. Sending the board off for repair has also been tried many times and failed. I've had experience with at least 100 Champion 1000's and 99% of the time the board blows because someone jumped it off with a battery and pulled the cables away when it started. 99 out of 100. Miller still makes this board but for how long I can't say. They have obsoleted the previous model PC so my suggestion is to put an order in for the board and hope they build them. As of the moment they are backordered. Cost is in the $550.00 range.

        PS. I see you say it still welds but I bet if you check your 100v plugs and your studs the OCV is sky high and you have about 186v on the 110v recpt. It won't weld for long.
        I was warned about this (thankfully!) on my TB 280NT. Had not heard it was due to pulling the cables off when it started. Doesn’t matter, I guess, I would never jump it and have put a warning sign by the battery. Just curious—same board, or just the same design on a different board?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post

          I was warned about this (thankfully!) on my TB 280NT. Had not heard it was due to pulling the cables off when it started. Doesn’t matter, I guess, I would never jump it and have put a warning sign by the battery. Just curious—same board, or just the same design on a different board?
          I've never seen that problem on any other welder or at least I haven't asked the customer. When a Champion 10000 comes in the shop my first statement is. "You jumped it off" Customer bows his head and nods yes. That board is distinctly it's own and used on no other product. The thing that I'm baffled about is the OP states it still welds. I've never experienced that. Once that cap blows off the board output and idle cease. But I guess there's a first for everything even after working on 100's of them.

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          • #6
            For the OP.
            Littelfuse P33Z70

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