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Tig welding with nickel 99

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  • Tig welding with nickel 99

    So I am getting ready to weld some cast iron or cast steel to some mild steel. I have nickel 99 rod that I knocked off and cleaned all of the flux off of. I was practicing on welding some mild steel tube together today using the nickel rod and when I was done it had a crack through the whole weld. I did not preheat or post heat the piece. This was my first time welding with nickel rod so I wanted to see what it was like. What could have caused this?

  • #2
    when i use Ni99 on cast iron, i preheat to 400 or so. I usually get good results. IDK about mild steel

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    • #3
      You might consider adding more detail so the real pros can better help....amperage, joint type, AC or DC, etc. The actual project sounds like it might be better suited to TIG brazing.

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      • #4
        The project is welding a rear end center housing to mild steel axle tubes.
        The practice pieces were some 3.5 od tube pressed onto a 3.25 od tube. Both mild steel. I used DCEN at 160 amps.

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        • #5
          You might do some research on that weld. Shouldn’t need nickle 99 for it. Mig with is frequently used with great sucess, as are several other methods.

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          • #6
            I have done quite a bit of research on it. Some say the housing is cast iron while some say cast steel. I feel like my mig welder doesn't have the capability to weld the tubes and housing.
            it seems like the proper procedure is to preheat, weld using nickel filler, and post heat.

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            • #7
              Here is the practice part with the crack
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                It should be pretty easy to identify your housing as cast steel or cast iron. If its cast steel, then it’s easy. You can either do the spark test with a grinder and compare the sparks to a piece known steel and known cast iron. More often, I’ll take my tig torch and find a corner that I can very quickly get a puddle on and then get off. Then try to file that puddle. If the file slides over it like it’s made out of glass then it’s cast iron.

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                • #9
                  Ryan- thanks for the info. If it's cast steel will it produce some filings?

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                  • #10
                    How about a picture or telling us what the housing came off of and approximately the year model?...along with what axle tubes are you using?....Std Mild steel ,DOM or ChoMo?
                    Along with that Pre & post heat is needed on cast iron most of the time.........more modern cast iron products like Nodular Iron are as good as steel.........in any case...you may need a fixture to insure your axle tubes get on there straight during the welding....at places that do this for a living , they use a fixture and also have a huge 100 ton press to tweak the housing and ends in the event it does move during the welding process. Lots of variable's lay out exactly what your doing..

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                    • #11
                      Rear end is a Ford Explorer 8.8. Maybe from an early 90’s with drum brakes. 3 1/41020 dom steel tubing. I’m putting 9” bearing ends on and have the alignment bar and bushings. Pretty typical stuff for an 8.8.

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                      • #12
                        You should be able to weld direct to the housing and tubes........standard Mig & filler I would preheat a few hundred degrees....but you'll need big amperage on the Mig....especially if the tubes are .250 wall or greater... weld the tube in first and the bearing ends last with the fixture attached...Reason for using an 8.8 versus a 9"? .............is this a High Pinion front? lots of support out there on the 9 inch stuff.

                        This is a HP 8.8 on a fabricated housing using 3"x.375 wall DOM
                        Click image for larger version

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                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          Tarry,
                          thanks for the info! Already had the 8.8 from a previous project. Replaced the axle tubes with 1/4" wall.
                          That rear looks stout! Mine is going in a 1967 mustang so nothing too crazy and it won't be taking too much abuse.

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                          • #14
                            That axel is on the front of a Jeep project of mine....drivers side drop...LS3 powered 500 hp.

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                            • #15
                              pirate4x4 for that type of stuff...who knows. Preheating and running 70S6 might work with the MIG. Maybe 4130 with tig or even some 309 but like I said, try Pirate they will have thousands of posts on Jeep stuff. You trying to make to Johnson Valley or what
                              If you're stuck on that stick rod you'll need to post heat that thing to keep it from cracking sooner but it should crack later too.

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