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  • PipePro 304 issue

    I recently acquired a PipePro 304 serial # LJ005366 with 4k+ hrs, and it is only outputting 60Vac at the 110 outlet at idle and 90Vac on run. I’m also getting 14Vdc at the brushes, and 0V at the weld terminals on idle and 90+Vdc on run on a CV setting. I was needing some help troubleshooting to trace the issue back to the proper component. Any help would be appreciated. Also I’ve seen a technical manual listed on eBay - is it worth it to get for troubleshooting components as I’m not quite sure what voltages or checks to do based solely off the user manual and diagrams available from Miller’s website. - Thanks again

  • #2
    First thing I would check is engine speed--easiest to do by reading the frequecy at the AC outlet. If your multimeter doesn't have a frequency range, get a Kill-A-Watt meter for around 20 bucks at HD, Lowes, or HF--I think they all have them, and they are nice for other uses such as seeing how much power a particular appliance is drawing, etc. If it's not right around 60 Hz. at "RUN".

    Tech manuals are not the answer to every question, but they are a lot of help--I try to find one for each of my machines. I have paid up to 50 bucks for them and I think they are worth it. One guy's opinion.

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    • #3
      Thank you - so it was very erratic. I found 40Hz on Idle which would hold for 30sec or so then bounce around to 80, 100, or 120Hz. The frequency fluctuated considerably more on Run and didn’t seem to hold any value for even a few seconds: from 400Hz to 3300Hz.

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      • #4
        I really doubt your engine speed could be varying that much--must be some sort of connection issue inside the unit making the meter crazy. That really, really sounds like a bad connection somewhere. No way the engine would hold together if it were turning fast enough to produce 3300 Hz. Assume you have checked and the brushes move freely in their holders? I would get a mechanical or electrical (plug wire attached) tach to see what the engine speed is directly, and would also start following the wires from the brushes to see if you can find a loose or corroded connection.

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        • #5
          Hello!

          So one thing I would be checking is if this unit requires the amperage command knob to be at 10 for full AC output. Some welder generators need the amperage command to 10 for the 110VAC duplex to get full output. Otherwise I am with Aeronca41 that you need to verify engine speed with an infared tachometer like this one:

          https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Professio...77395307&psc=1

          Full wide open RPM is normally about 3600 RPM for the small gas onan, robin subaru and kohler engines. Otherwise, if say we know you had perfect RPM and the engine was ruled out its down to the excitation circuit and the auxillary winding and connections from the winding the the duplex, and even the duplex or circuit breakers themselves. First thing first, start with the small easy stuff to check and verify, command knob position, Connections, Engine RPM, Excitation circuit.

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          • #6
            I've often had bad luck reading the frequency of the AC output. The output is noisy and confuses meters. Try another meter, or adding a load (a space heater, for example), or measuring the other side of something with a transformer, or things like that. Looking at the output on an oscilloscope is the gold standard, of course.

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            • #7
              Is it a 1800 or 3600 rpm welder ?

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              • #8
                3600

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                • #9
                  Yes, it supposed to be 2500 at Idle and 3750 max on Run

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                  • #10
                    Aeronca41 - brushes are good. I have two sets, I removed one and cleaned the slips rings with very fine grit polishing sand paper. Plenty of brush length

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                    • #11
                      The IR Tachometer Logan recommends is a good idea. Need to be sure the engine is running at the right speed--all else depends on that. Then, you'll have to start looking for the bad connections or failed parts.

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                      • #12
                        Ok, I got 2440 rpm on Idle and 3754 on Run. I know the idle is a bit low and needs to be raised, but I didn’t see any bad or loose connections when tracing the wires from the brushes. - Where can I check next as far as components to zero in on the culprit?

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                        • #13
                          Just went to look at the schematic--essentially nothing there--just blocks that represent circuit cards. Unless you are a pretty skilled decipherer of circuit boards without a diagram, you are going to need someone with at least a tech manual for this machine (which usually doesn't have schematics either), but it will at least give you some voltages and resistances to check. Unfortunately, the TM generally just says "change the board" if you get bad readings, which can get really expensive. Very frustrating. Perhaps someone else has direct experience with this machine and can give you some guidance. I'm stymied by lack of data at this point. Sorry.

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                          • #14
                            Aeronca41 - well I really appreciate yours and everyone else’s help so far. Have definitely been able to start to tick a few possibilities off of the list.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by LoganpClayton View Post
                              Hello!

                              So one thing I would be checking is if this unit requires the amperage command knob to be at 10 for full AC output. Some welder generators need the amperage command to 10 for the 110VAC duplex to get full output.
                              Did you verify that the V/A adjustment is maxed out, just for good measure? some units require V/A adjust to be max for duplex for AC to get full output.

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