Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

RFCS-23 with 14-pin connector?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • RFCS-23 with 14-pin connector?

    I messed up and made a stupid auction mistake recently...I tried to put in a lowball bid because there were a few things in the pile I wanted, and somehow an extra digit got added...so I "won" at waaaaay more than I was willing to pay.

    Included in the pile were 9 different Miller pedals...two RFC-23A, a couple of RFCS-14, a couple of RFC-14, one RFCS-5 and then one marked RFCS-23 that has me confused.

    I thought the RFCS-23 should have a 5-pin connector, but this one clearly has a 14-pin connector. I did some digging and found a manual online that shows an RFCS-23 with a 14-pin connector (still only five are active) and now I'm lost. Could this have been converted?

    Here's the manual:

    https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O826G_MIL.pdf

    Here's what I'm looking at:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0526.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	2.32 MB
ID:	612524 ​​​​​​​

  • #2
    So long as your A,B,C,D, and E are the active ones, A and B close when you push the pedal, and it's 1k ohms across C and D, you should be good to use it with a 14-pin machine. I am guessing you would get more for it than you would with a 5-pin plug.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by jjohn76 View Post
      So long as your A,B,C,D, and E are the active ones, A and B close when you push the pedal, and it's 1k ohms across C and D, you should be good to use it with a 14-pin machine. I am guessing you would get more for it than you would with a 5-pin plug.
      Thanks! I'll break out a multimeter tomorrow, see what I find...it was a comical looking pile full of old pedals :-)

      Comment


      • #4
        No problem. The resistance between C and E should start at 1k ohm and go to zero as you press the pedal down. The resistance between D and E should be the opposite (start at 0, go to 1k ohm).

        Comment


        • #5
          Those RFC-23A pedals aren’t cheap either. I’ve got in a hurry on eBay before and ALMOST did what you’ve done. I hope you can recover your excess though.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
            Those RFC-23A pedals aren’t cheap either. I’ve got in a hurry on eBay before and ALMOST did what you’ve done. I hope you can recover your excess though.
            Yeah, I'm not sure how I did it, but $250 became $1,250 and the lot went for $1,205. I kept rooting for the other person to go another $50 but they didn't...lol.

            I saw the pile had the RFC-23A, and know they're pricey, but what I wanted to keep was a rotating welding positioner with a foot pedal...thought that would be fun to play with. I didn't know what two of the items were, and it turns out they were probably what drove the price up....two AC/DC electrical etching machines that are like $5-600 used on eBay. It'll take a while but I'll get my money back.

            So if anybody needs a pedal for almost any Miller welder I'm making deals...lol

            Comment


            • #7
              That's a great story, Bart. Sounds like you will come out OK.

              Comment


              • #8
                I might take an RFCS-14 if it's cheap enough. I don't plan on using it, but I figure I should keep a pedal handy in case someone wants to use my welder and is familiar with a pedal instead of a fingertip control.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I’m about to make two welding positioners and plan to use potentiometers on them. I might be in the market for one or two. I’ll give a holler when I get that far.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jjohn76 View Post
                    No problem. The resistance between C and E should start at 1k ohm and go to zero as you press the pedal down. The resistance between D and E should be the opposite (start at 0, go to 1k ohm).
                    Everything worked that way, so it must have been converted to the 14-pin at some point...put it on the Sync 250 and it worked properly. Thanks!

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X