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  • #16
    Originally posted by paranoid56 View Post
    question on this, how and what am i measuring? I tried to (with the machine off) check continuity between the positive post on the machine and the tungsten and i showed it open, which feels wrong, but wanted to ask you pros first.
    Also, i didn't come with any stick welding stuff, so cant really try that.
    You should see continuity between the positive post on the machine and the tungsten.

    If you have a piece of aluminum, I would try setting the machine to AC, have the contactor and output switches set to remote, and the HF start to continuous and see if you can't get an arc started that way. If you get an arc that way it would eliminate the torch power cable, but the fact you don't see continuity makes me very suspicious of the cable. The HF will jump a gap, so I guess it's possible the power cable has a break and the HF is still getting to the tungsten.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by G-ManBart View Post

      You should see continuity between the positive post on the machine and the tungsten.

      If you have a piece of aluminum, I would try setting the machine to AC, have the contactor and output switches set to remote, and the HF start to continuous and see if you can't get an arc started that way. If you get an arc that way it would eliminate the torch power cable, but the fact you don't see continuity makes me very suspicious of the cable. The HF will jump a gap, so I guess it's possible the power cable has a break and the HF is still getting to the tungsten.
      let me try the AC thing in the morning, Question though, on my non water cooled torch, the hot lead is thick. but on the water lead none of these seem that large. is the power coming though the bolt on fitting?
      Click image for larger version

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      • #18
        Originally posted by paranoid56 View Post

        let me try the AC thing in the morning, Question though, on my non water cooled torch, the hot lead is thick. but on the water lead none of these seem that large. is the power coming though the bolt on fitting?
        Yes, the power lead is the one with the nut on it. Since it's cooled by water it doesn't have to be very thick. Many times the first sign that your cooler system has failed (or someone forgot to turn it on) is when the power lead line goes up in steam! You can actually get away with very short welds (as in a few seconds) without the cooler circulating as long as the lines have coolant in them....the coolant will soak up the heat and keep things from getting damaged.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by G-ManBart View Post

          Yes, the power lead is the one with the nut on it. Since it's cooled by water it doesn't have to be very thick. Many times the first sign that your cooler system has failed (or someone forgot to turn it on) is when the power lead line goes up in steam! You can actually get away with very short welds (as in a few seconds) without the cooler circulating as long as the lines have coolant in them....the coolant will soak up the heat and keep things from getting damaged.
          ok, i ordered a new positive line and should be here thursday. will retest it.

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          • #20
            and new positive line fixed it, seems to be welding great now. thanks again for all the help

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            • #21
              Originally posted by paranoid56 View Post
              and new positive line fixed it, seems to be welding great now. thanks again for all the help
              Excellent!

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              • #22
                Great!

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