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  • Syncrowave 250 blowing holes

    Hi everyone,

    I have an old Syncrowave 250 that I've used for steel, aluminum, and stainless in the past, haven't used it in a couple years, though. Went to do some aluminum the other day and it seemed like it was running full amperage, all the time - just blowing holes in the piece. Switched back over to steel and same thing. I've set it back to panel, turned the panel down to 5 amps, same thing...touch the pedal 1/16th of an inch and boom! Digs a crater or blows a hole.

    I opened it up and cleaned out acorns and insulation - so quite possibly something has been chewed although I can't see anything obvious. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be anyone who repairs these locally - even the Miller dealer doesn't do service.

    Is there anything I can check? Or is this ready for the great beyond at this point...

    Thanks a lot!!

    Pat

  • #2
    Hey Pat, I have faith in the guys here to get you started on your path to making that old machine chooch again with a little work on your part. I’m not one of those super smart guys, but they will need you to post your serial number so they can better help you help yourself.

    I love those old machine and hope you get her back to working condition in short order.

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    • #3
      Amperage switch to remote not panel

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      • #4
        Pat, first thing to check is the Hall Device/ output current sensor and its connections to the main circuit board. It looks like a black donut with thick copper leads going through it. Also, what is your serial number (gives us the year of the machine and correct manual). Looking at the panel, it's on the right side of the inside wall/lifting eye frame. The copper lead goes through it and the inside wall.

        Jon
        Last edited by jjohn76; 08-19-2020, 11:27 PM.

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        • #5
          Thanks guys!

          My thought with changing amperage to the front panel was to possibly eliminate any issues the foot pedal may be having...shows how much I know!

          The serial number is JK574632. So...1989 vintage?

          Found the owners manual under 'Serial Numbers: JJ389988 through JK690986'. Will check for the hall device...thx!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Mudhen View Post
            Thanks guys!

            My thought with changing amperage to the front panel was to possibly eliminate any issues the foot pedal may be having...shows how much I know!

            The serial number is JK574632. So...1989 vintage?

            Found the owners manual under 'Serial Numbers: JJ389988 through JK690986'. Will check for the hall device...thx!
            I've been through this exact scenario recently, so there's hope.

            Not all Syncrowave 250 have a hall device. The oldest versions had a shunt that is an aluminum bar that runs horizontally in front of the cooling fan...it'll have red insulators on either end. Many of these were later updated to a hall device and an updated PCB, so you won't know until you look. The hall device is a round, black donut shape on the left side of the machine...side where the power input is.

            The machine I ran into this problem with was original and still had the shunt. It was welding perfectly until I cleaned it with compressed air. The shunt has two wires, one positive, one negative that attach just inboard of the red insulators. Those wires go to a silver box on the middle panel and that sends a signal to the board needed for output control. The wires are held to the shunt with a screw that was spot welded to the shunt, with no nut on the top. The spot weld on mine failed, and the screw fell out, taking the wire with it, and loss of all amperage control....it was off or max amperage. I guess the compressed air was enough to knock it loose. I checked the other screw and it was loose as well...popped right out. I put the screws back and secured them with a nut on the top...no idea why the factory didn't do that.

            I sold that machine, but just the other day brought home another one. It's from the same serial number range as yours, but it's been updated to a hall device, so if yours has been updated, and you need info like resistance, etc from components I might be able to help. I think I have pictures saved on my phone from the one with the shunt if needed.
            Last edited by G-ManBart; 08-20-2020, 06:21 AM.

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            • #7
              Thanks G-ManBart! I'd found your thread before and was using it for some things to look at. :-)

              I don't believe mine has the hall device...couldn't find anything that looked like it anyway. Here's a pic of what I believe you're talking about - there's a tube at the top and the bar at the bottom..the wires run to that silver box below the board. I did hit the inside with air - but it was only after the issues started.

              I'm going to start pulling wires and cleaning one by one. My garage has an issue with mildew - maybe just dirty connection someplace.

              Pat

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Mudhen View Post
                Thanks G-ManBart! I'd found your thread before and was using it for some things to look at. :-)

                I don't believe mine has the hall device...couldn't find anything that looked like it anyway. Here's a pic of what I believe you're talking about - there's a tube at the top and the bar at the bottom..the wires run to that silver box below the board. I did hit the inside with air - but it was only after the issues started.

                I'm going to start pulling wires and cleaning one by one. My garage has an issue with mildew - maybe just dirty connection someplace.

                Pat
                Yep, yours still has the shunt, so no hall device and you have the wires identified. Checking all those connections is a good start. I didn't have to troubleshoot the filter (the silver box) or the board, so I don't know what you'd need to look for on them, but I'm sure someone here can help.

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