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Millermatic 210

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  • #16
    Popscott, it seems like you have the schematic. That board has a lot of MoSFETs... I two for each motor (one driving, one braking). The circuit on the bottom looks similar to Miller's older driver components- the heatsinked BJT or whatever it is on this board doesn't drive the motor? Q3 lying down looks similar to the braking circuit on other boards. Same with the free wheeling diodes. What do the other Mosfets drive?

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    • #17
      Well, since the part numbers are rubbed off all of
      these transistors making I it nearly impossible for an
      amateur to get replacements I’ve given it up and
      shipped the board off for repair.
      thanks for the suggestions.

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      • #18
        Innovat repaired my board. In speaking with the tech there
        were 5 components on the board they replaced. None
        were Q11.
        I’ll post how the repair turns out.
        Last edited by aametalmaster; 06-20-2020, 10:12 AM. Reason: Spelling fix. Innovet is a pet place

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        • #19
          It's tough to beat that service

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          • #20
            That's why I don't recommend replacing parts without testing them first... it usually doesn't fix anything, unless they're visibly bad, and that visual inspection is a form of test anyway. Something a lot of mechanics really should learn, especially when they're charging the customer for the parts and labor...

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            • #21
              Got the board installed. The mig gun works now but still no
              spoolgun. Checked the voltage to the spoolgun motor. It ranges
              from <10 to >35v dc depending on the wire speed setting.
              I’m beginning to think the little dc motor shorted, frying some
              parts on the controller board.
              Looks a lot like a new motor for the spoolgun might be in
              order.

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              • #22
                Or there is something mechanical binding it up. I'm not familiar with the mechanical design--can you turn the motor or something in the drive train by hand and be sure it's all free to move? That also could have fried the board if it drew too much current while it was bound up. If it's free, and if its a plain old DC motor, try disconnecting the wires and patching in power from a 12 v battery and see if it turns.

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                • #23
                  I’ve tried running the motor while it was disconnected
                  from the gear mechanism.

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                  • #24
                    Sounds like it's bad.

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                    • #25
                      I have only repaired a Spoolmatic motor, but it wasn't too difficult. You might find the lead shorted inside the motor.

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