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Please Help with Miller 330a b/p

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  • #16
    Don't know the part number, but you probably don't want to buy that specific part anyway. It looks from the the picture like it only has two terminals. If that is correct, just take the old switch to the hardware store and buy a "single pole single throw toggle switch" rated for 10 amps or more at 120 volts AC or more. Nothing special, looking at the label with the specs on your switch. Probably only cost you a few bucks, and no shipping charges. If the mounting hole is a different size, just make up an adapter plate if necessary.

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    • #17

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      • #18
        It's not listed in here

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        • #19

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          • #20
            I'm not sure what you mean by the second primary switch. Can you post a picture of the welder showing exactly which switch it is? Are you set on buying the original Miller part number? That really isn't necessary -- any switch that meets the same specs will work just fine.

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            • #21
              Anyone know how to wire that timer up/ what that switch just above the gas solenoid is? the spades are still on the wires they just had it disconnected. The gas solenoid was also plugged with caps they said it didn't work but it works just fine.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                I'm not sure what you mean by the second primary switch. Can you post a picture of the welder showing exactly which switch it is? Are you set on buying the original Miller part number? That really isn't necessary -- any switch that meets the same specs will work just fine.
                Doesn't necessarily have to be Miller lol I'm trying to start a business out of a small shop on a limited budget

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                • #23

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                  • #24
                    OK, so this is power switch, second from the bottom, on the lower right side of the panel? Just want to be sure 'I'm correctly hearing what you're saying.

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                    • #25
                      That’s probably the start circuit. Mine is labeled, I can check tomorrow when I get off duty and see exactly what it’s labeled as.

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                      • #26
                        I think you're right, Ryan. We have another track going in PM on this--too many switches in this one. His problem is with the Remote Current control STANDARD/REMOTE switch. Working through that one with PM. I'm pretty sure the switch here is the start circuit on/off, but I thought it was mounted 90° to the right, on the vertical member that is the corner of the cabinet. Could be wrong.

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                        • #27
                          I'm going tomorrow/ today lol and I'll take pictures of the upper and lower parts of the cabinet.

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                          • #28
                            He switch I’m pointing at is the main power switch.

                            The switch at the bottom near the gas solenoid is the start circuit.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                              He switch I’m pointing at is the main power switch.

                              The switch at the bottom near the gas solenoid is the start circuit.
                              I found this picture last night and circled the switch in question I'll be out at my shop here in a little while and I'll take an actual picture of the front of my machine and what it says around that switch. Now that start circuit switch what does that control the high frequency?
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                Hmmm. Mine has a fuse in that spot.
                                Attached Files

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