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Please Help with Miller 330a b/p

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  • Please Help with Miller 330a b/p

    Hello everyone new to the forum here. So I bought a Miller 330a b/p like many here lol. I bought mine from the shop I work at it had been sitting for 5 years in the forgotten part of the shop. I have only been there 6 months and I asked the owner he said 200$. Went to uhaul rented a trailer at lunch went home with me that night. So since I have purchased a 25ft wp-20, 20ft of 1/0 ground, 100ft of 4ga 3wire, 20ft (split into 3 6ft lengths) of 3 gauge solid strand that goes from my 100amp 2 Pole breaker, 50amp plug/receptacle, coolmate4, dual regulator, 125 tank, new points, new brush for the foot pedal. So now for my problem I have no amperage rage with my footpedal or on standard using the dial. Basically I have the beginning amperage of the range selector and that's it's. Any help would be awesome before I scrap thing thing and sell everything.

  • #2
    Welcome. You bought a true icon of the welding world! Lots of people here that can help. Serial number, please. Have to be able to look at the correct drawings.

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    • #3
      "And after spending all that money, it had better work!"

      First thing to check is the fuse for the current control, F1. If it's good, or it blows after replacing it, then you'll have the switches, a bridge rectifier, a couple resistors, a contactor, and a bunch of connections to check, but as Aeronca41 said, the exact wiring depends on the version of the machine, which you look up by the serial number.

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      • #4
        She’s a big girl. Don’t be offended when she laughs at you for welding such thin metal as 1” plate.

        I love mine. These old machines are solid and worth repairing, in my opinion. It will likely be welding when pushing up daisies. Besides, they’re just cool. Mine still has some wonky HF problems, but I’ll get those ironed out one day. I’ve already had help from guys on here getting the old girl choochin again.

        Have you measured your foot pedal to make sure you’re repair is satisfactory?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by aeronca41 View Post
          welcome. You bought a true icon of the welding world! Lots of people here that can help. Serial number, please. Have to be able to look at the correct drawings.
          hj218683
          Last edited by Leprahcaun; 05-20-2020, 01:16 PM.

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          • #6
            Found that manual, but there are three different schematics in that series. Is yours a 200A or 300 A Machine? Will still need to get the full serial number to choose the correct diagram. Pretty cool that you have the original paperwork.

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            • #7
              sorry--missed seeing your last post.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                sorry--missed seeing your last post.
                ​​​​​​I was trying to add the serial number and somehow deleted everything lol but I found my serial number in a picture hj218683. I have the original manual for both machine and pedal
                Last edited by Leprahcaun; 05-20-2020, 01:27 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                  She’s a big girl. Don’t be offended when she laughs at you for welding such thin metal as 1” plate.

                  I love mine. These old machines are solid and worth repairing, in my opinion. It will likely be welding when pushing up daisies. Besides, they’re just cool. Mine still has some wonky HF problems, but I’ll get those ironed out one day. I’ve already had help from guys on here getting the old girl choochin again.

                  Have you measured your foot pedal to make sure you’re repair is satisfactory?
                  I have full range with a meter I also replaced the wound resistor that the brush rides on. Thank you for the boost in confidence. I did some research and found a replacement hf cap the Miller model number is 081291
                  Last edited by Leprahcaun; 05-20-2020, 01:26 PM.

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                  • #10
                    She has a sweet, smooth stick arc too.

                    If you run into trouble with the round, yellow fuse on the front, they can be hard to find. It’s not the same as a slow blow type like you’ll get at your ace hardware. I have a box of them that I hope I’ll never use.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bushytails View Post
                      "And after spending all that money, it had better work!"

                      First thing to check is the fuse for the current control, F1. If it's good, or it blows after replacing it, then you'll have the switches, a bridge rectifier, a couple resistors, a contactor, and a bunch of connections to check, but as Aeronca41 said, the exact wiring depends on the version of the machine, which you look up by the serial number.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This is the second primary switch I think it's broken doesn't seem to engage properly

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                        • #13
                          Did you check it with an ohmmeter?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                            Did you check it with an ohmmeter?
                            No I just figured replace it anyway. Could this be the cause of the problem?
                            ​​​​​

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Aeronca41 View Post
                              Did you check it with an ohmmeter?
                              Would you happen to know the part number for that switch?

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